i dont think so... the amp is supposed to come on when it gets voltage from the remote turn on wire (which is supposed to be spliced into a wire that turns on when the ignition comes on). That's completely normal.

good luck fixing it tommorow

 

i'll need it...and then after this remote turn on wire is fixed, i'll be back to my squealing problem once again......MOST likely knowing my luck!

 

I read this thread. I want to see how this turn out for you. Good luck.

 

I brought it to circuit city today and they disconnected my stock HU and the line-out converter. They put in a different HU and it sounded all better. I have to get one of those bad mothers now. What do you all think about this HU:

http://www.eclipse-web.com/cd/cd3000.html


The remote wire is connected to the ignition because it can't be hooked up properly to the stock HU - another reason to get an aftermarket HU.


The speaker wire and RCAs and power wires are all run properly along the car. Seperated on each side an all. I have the 1 ground loop isolator on the front, and I could add another to the rear if I must.

The grounds are good, connected to the seat belts, circuit city says that its good.


The speaker wire that i'm using is not too good - not shielded. I like the idea of foil tape to wrap around the speaker wires and rcas though.


What do you all think of that HU?

 

ive heard good things about that headunit, very nice.

good for the expandibility if you choose to later on.

 

hrm get a high quailty high low converter. i have one... i used to have horrible engine noise... then i got a good high low converter and well its all gone. try that...

 

Is the SVEN4 what you would consider good quality? I have two 2-channels in from circuit city, and I consider THAT low quality. Thanks for the help!

 

Not true, there is a (i believe, dont quote me) grey wire behind the HU that is the turn on, thats how my amp is hooked up...it is on whenever the ignition is on, not the HU, but it turns off wit the HU like when I get out and stuff

The line converter is a possibility...i have the walmart scoshce line-out convertor, it works ok for me....

plus wires, possibility but with a DIS its not as likely(distributor-less Ignition System, a new acronym i learned today

check your line out convertor, and put a switch in the remote if you need to on the amp for testing....there is something we're missing, no one else has this problem...

Edit: speaker wire could be part of the problem if it is unshielded, as it picks up interference easily...

 

I think that going with the new HU will solve multiple problems. First, I won't have to deal with fixing that remote wire, the new HU will be much more straight forward. Also, this way I have no line out converter. The sound quality will be better. And since its an eclipse, I can still keep my steering wheel controls. However, I may still want to put in new speaker wire as so many of you are telling me.

I thought I was doing well when i bought speaker wire, but cc told me otherwise. This is what I bought and have in, is it crap?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1


Any better alternatives that don't cost $1 per foot?

 

Anyway, I swapped out the amp for a Pioneer GM-6100F. I got it from circuit city for $80....now THATS a steal. They had it on clearance and I haggled them down. The RCAs are fine, at cc I had them open up the best RCAs they had and we temporarily ran it and made no difference. Mine are shielded anyway. I then put in the SVEN4 line out converter. Still a little noise, so the only thing left is the HU!

What do you all think of that amp?:
Pioneer GM-6100F