This is an odd and not average ground issue. Now you can check my setup in my profile, i have 4g power/ground running from battery to amp and monster rca/remote cables from hu to amp. all along the drivers side. Also just for the record i have a sirius sat coax cable also running on the drivers side. Now i used to have it grounded to the frame but i did the same so i assumed having it directly to (-) on batt would resolve the issue but NOPE. So on to the other details, it only occurs at idle once you go above idle it seems to either stop or just get very quite. I used to have it grounded to the tail light bolt but the subs used to pop when it was turned on. So does anyone have any suggestions?
As anyone knows this is EXTREMELY annoying so please help me out!!

 

uhh...i got the same issue...DRIVES ME CRAZY!

 

sounds to me like a bad ground... you may need to clean off any paint etc to get to complete bare metal.

 

i do not get this thread...it is a poll about installing intake and exhaust, and a post about a problem with your audio equipment...

anyway, installing your own intake and exhaust (if they are trd parts) does not break your warranty. trd parts are warrantied for 1 year/12000 miles when you install them yourself. if they are installed by a dealership they join your 3 year/36000 mile warranty or 1 year/12000 warranty, which ever one is longer at the point you install them.

 

as for the audio, run your rca's on the passenger side and the power/remmote on the driver side. keep em far away!

 

^^ hes right RCAs down pass side and Power down drivers side. Remote doesnt matter, as it doesnt have enough power. For your ground use a multimeter. Test you battery and see the volatge u get then test the + wire under the hatch and test grounds until you get EXACTLY the same as you got from the +/- on the battery; that's the perfect ground

 

its a bad ground or like Neothin said. sand it down to no paint is left.


doesnt matter who installs what. nothing voids the warranty unless the dealership can prove 100% that it was the aftermarket parts that cause whatever the problem is.

 

you should ground your stuff to one of the bolts under the rear seat. (the bolt that hold on the seat back) And make sure your scrape all the paint away until you get bare metal.

 

Thanks for all of the reply's the poll was extreamly helpful. Just to clerafy some things as i don't think some of you caught it. I have the ground cable running directly to the - terminal on the battery.... so are you suggesting i don't do that and run it to the body instead? And on the intake and ex when i called corp they told me the exact opposite are they just bsing me?

<Edit> Also i plan on installing all trd parts does that make a difference? </Edit>

 

Grouding to the - on the battery vs grounding in the rear is debatable in the car audio community. Personally I test in the method I said above and keep the ground as short as possible

 

your ground cable should be no longer than 18". so that being said, scrape off some paint and ground that bad boy in the rear. move rca's and remote turn on wire to opposite side of car as the power and that will solve your problems,

 

As others have already stated, that's most likely your issue. NEVER run your signal & power cables in parallel! Separate them as others have stated, power on one side of the car and RCAs on the other, and you'll probably be fine. If you still have an issue after that, try using RCA cables that use a twisted-pair design, if your current cables aren't.

 

wouldn't it be ok to run the rca wires down the middle and power under the car. I think that would be easyer than removing pannles to get the wires on oposite sides of the car. with only 600w rms would there be any interference?

 

how would YOU get the wires to run on the outside?

 

Okie doike i will definitely use the advice i have gotten here... and as for outside the car? wtf kinda suggestion is that yes lets drill more holes instead of taking of those panels. let me tell you something ive done audio system in a bunch of family and friends cars and the tc is one of the easiest those panels are ____ing like a plug and play thumb drive! Thanks for trying but if you dont know about the topic DONT POST! </rant complete> Anyway thank all of you for the good advice, once again i am glad i found this forum.

 

good, now let us know if any of those things solved the problem.

 

Yes, that's ok if done correctly, but you still wouldn't want to run them too close to one another. Running your power cable on the outside under the car is easy. If you follow the brake lines going to the rear, you can see that there's an empty loop on the stock brackets/hangers that hold the brake and other lines. It's a perfect fit for 4awg wire and will support it fine, and you can use nylon wire ties to attach the cable to the lines in between each of the hangers. All you need is one hole in the hatch for your power wire to come through, so you can use a pre-existing hole or drill your own, but make sure to use a grommet. This is how my tC is done, and how I've run power on all my installs for the past 20 years, without issue. Lots of people prefer to run the power inside, and that's fine too, provided it's done correctly. However, it's obviously possible for that to go wrong, as evidenced by the problem discussed in this thread.

Easy dude, he was simply asking a question, not suggesting that's what you do. And considering your situation, he may know as much or more about car audio than you.

 

thanks for that post. I knew about it b/c i have friends who have done this. As long as it is secure and does not interfer with anything it will be alright. and I do know something about audio. I even put a system on my go-kart back when I was 12-13.