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Hidden Slim 10" box..updated with it's evil twin and am

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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 04:19 PM
  #161  
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Why would I build something and not sell it

Not sure on pricing, need to get final construction etc. down first. Probably around $150 for each piece(regular MDF) $175 in Trupan, more than likely cheaper as a full on hatch replacement package.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 04:33 AM
  #162  
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kinda off subject...but that floor mat from the video is that supposed to come with the other ones for the front. cause i got those from the dealer but didnt get the one for the hatch/cargo area...??
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 04:33 AM
  #163  
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kinda off subject...but that floor mat from the video is that supposed to come with the other ones for the front. cause i got those from the dealer but didnt get the one for the hatch/cargo area...??
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 02:25 PM
  #164  
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I'm pretty sure it's a 5 piece set.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by Toast89
kinda off subject...but that floor mat from the video is that supposed to come with the other ones for the front. cause i got those from the dealer but didnt get the one for the hatch/cargo area...??
I'd call the dealer and complain or at least find out. It should have come with the hatch area if you bought the floormats from the dealer.

Can you release the SQ10 yet Mandos? Please?
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 10:01 PM
  #166  
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How many watts RMS can the SQ10 sub handle?
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 10:02 PM
  #167  
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200W for most people, 400W if you're really careful.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #168  
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So if I run it at like 300-350 is it going to be fine and last?
Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #169  
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as long as you know how to properly set your gain and know what mechanical noise sounds like so you can avoid it, you'd be fine with that....
Old Nov 9, 2006 | 07:32 PM
  #170  
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100-400 watts is an insane answer to what the rms is on that sub. if the rms is only 150ish and your telling the kid to run a 400 watt amp on it he'll be getting weird smells from the sub in less then a month because he will have fried the sub. what is the real rms of the sub? somebody please give me a sensible answer to this question.
Old Nov 9, 2006 | 07:39 PM
  #171  
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UMMM...... mandos up there WORKS FOR ELEMENTAL DESIGNS..... I think he know's what he's talking about.... just a thought
Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Toast89
100-400 watts is an insane answer to what the rms is on that sub. if the rms is only 150ish and your telling the kid to run a 400 watt amp on it he'll be getting weird smells from the sub in less then a month because he will have fried the sub. what is the real rms of the sub? somebody please give me a sensible answer to this question.
200W for most people, 400W if you're really careful.

I'll break that down a little further.

By most people, I meant those who are prone to not think it's loud enough. People who might not understand the concept of headroom and know clipping where they hear it. People that like to drive around and jam out to excessive amounts of bass. People that would end up frying the speaker with more power because the gains weren't set appropriately and it was clipped all to hell.

400W if you're really careful meaning, I've burped one on a Nine.1 at 4 ohms, IN MY CAR. It handled it just fine, but you shouldn't put it on a 400W RMS amp that's being clipped because someone didn't understand the gain isn't a volume **** and who likes to drive around with bass loud enough to give them a headache. Someone who understands the concept of headroom and how to properly set up a system will be able to feed a Nine.2 to one with no issues at all. As long as everything is set proplerly, you are feeding it an UNCLIPPED 400W, and listening to music, not driving around blaring 20Hz tones.
Old Nov 9, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Toast89
100-400 watts is an insane answer to what the rms is on that sub. if the rms is only 150ish and your telling the kid to run a 400 watt amp on it he'll be getting weird smells from the sub in less then a month because he will have fried the sub. what is the real rms of the sub? somebody please give me a sensible answer to this question.
One correct answer is that it's a variable based on both frequency and duration. The specification is very general, as they can't be more specific without also stating a tolerance, such as "300w RMS at 40Hz for 50 milliseconds". It's also a general spec because it's an average, not an absolute.

Most speakers can handle MUCH more power than their RMS rating, reproducing certain frequencies for very short periods. Considering music signals are dynamic, it's safe to use amps that can provide the amount of power specified within the connected speaker's RMS capability.

Everything Chris stated in the preceeding post is also true.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #174  
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here are the latest photos of my setup:






i think im going to put felt ontop of the two boxes after i finally get the speaker.

as for the tools in the left box a lot of people keep telling me that im gonna here it all rattling around but i never hear it so until i get some complaints from my back seat passengers it works for me.

and as for the amp before i was asked if it moves around, surprisingly it hardly move at all...i have 3 square pieces that go from the bottom of the platform to the rim of the tire (added for extra support) so far so good...
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 06:22 PM
  #175  
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Does your floor board still go down on top of that amp? I'm looking to get the eD hidden SQ10 box and a nine.4 and was hoping to completely hide the amp underthere like that as well. Keeping the spare is a must as well.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #176  
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watching...i want to get a JL 10W6v2...it wont fit...!
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 11:47 PM
  #177  
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I'm still checking every day to see when this is for sale....!!!!
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by teamben158
Does your floor board still go down on top of that amp? I'm looking to get the eD hidden SQ10 box and a nine.4 and was hoping to completely hide the amp underthere like that as well. Keeping the spare is a must as well.
i have the nine.2 amp and it fits perfectly. the floor board sits right on top with no problems at all...
Old Nov 12, 2006 | 01:19 AM
  #179  
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Mandos,

That set-up with the boxes on both sides and the amps in the middle is sick looking. I have a question though. What about the heat that the amps generate? How can this be dealt with? I live in the CA desert and this place burnt the last amp that I hid. With 120 degree ambient temps and the temps in the car, won't they get too hot and shut off? Just a thought that I am wrestling with, please help to shine some light.

Joe
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 05:43 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by azurTC
Mandos,

That set-up with the boxes on both sides and the amps in the middle is sick looking. I have a question though. What about the heat that the amps generate? How can this be dealt with? I live in the CA desert and this place burnt the last amp that I hid. With 120 degree ambient temps and the temps in the car, won't they get too hot and shut off? Just a thought that I am wrestling with, please help to shine some light.

Joe
The design of the amp mount has 2 openings for fans on the side of it!!



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