http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=8499

Anyone have any experience with these line output converters that connect to rear speakers. They also have a remote wire to turn on the amp. Im thinking this eliminates the need of even wiring anything to your head unit? Is it not as good as quality as other line output converters, or is it better to hook up your amp turn on straight to the head unit as normal? I have a sq10 stealth setup in the mail coming soon. Thanks for your time.

 

I would really hook up your remote turn on to either the ignition wire behind the radio or to an ignition fuse in the fuse box. I wouldn't trust it turning on more than one amplifier, or even any amp at all. The voltage generated by signal is pretty small.

 

here is the correct way to hook up a line output conveter (LOC).
1. behind the radio is a toyota wire harness and in it is where youll find these wires.
2. the LOC has four wires on it that youll use, the other ones you dont need. the two white wires are your left and the gray ones are your right.
3. the gray wire on the harness is what you should use for your amp turn on.
4. here are the factory wires youll need.....
rear right.... +red - white
rear left.... +brown - yellow
5. make sure you splice and tape then tape the whole harness so it look clean. dont use t taps or scotch locks. and definetly dont ever go to the fuse box for anything but changing a blown fuse!!!!!!!!!!

 

That LOC will work fine, as you can also wire it just as you've described. It doesn't have to be wired that way, you could wire it behind the HU instead as joshrobb stated, either will work and neither method is necessarily superior to the other. Shouldn't be any issue for the remote trigger either, so use it, don't bother tapping into the HU's output for that if you don't want to go through the extra work involved.

If you want to improve SQ, then disconnect your rear speakers and wire the LOC to the rear speaker wires. That way you'll gain the ability to use the fader control to balance the level between your sub and the front speakers, and won't have to open the dash. You can easily get to the rear speaker wiring by simply popping off the door sill panels.

HTH.

 

this sounds like a good idea and i gave it some thought before. Do the rear speakers not output that much sound? Will it be a noticiable difference in sound without them? I still want to hear more than just bass you know. I remember my civic i use to have was overwhelming with bass i had to get another amp to balance out the output of the boston components i had compared to the two JL w0's i had.

 

^ You can keep the rear speakers connected, but then you'll basically lose the ability to balance output between the front speakers and sub using the fader control. If like most people, you like a lot of bass, you'd have the fader control set more to the rear for more sub output. With the rear speakers connected, you'd have far too much sound coming from the rear, like going to a concert and standing with your back to the stage.

My rears are disconnected, and it still sounds like there's a lot of sound coming from behind me, and I don't mean just bass. Yes, there will still be a LOT of sound coming from the front, you don't need the rear speakers for it to be LOUD.

If you want to leave the rears connected, you can do that, and still wire the LOC in parallel with those speakers. To do this, first turn the gain all the way down on the sub amp. Next use your fader as normal, to balance the sound front to rear until you find the spot that sounds best to you. Finally turn up the gain on the sub's amp until the amount of bass a) blends appropriately with your other speakers, or b) is enough to please you, or c) produces distortion such that you should turn it down to avoid damage.

If you do it the latter way, you won't want to mess with the fader after that, unless it's more toward the front, to lower the bass. This is because setting it more toward the rear will make it sound as though everything is behind you, as I'm sure you'll see.

HTH