mikeemurda

All the information I have for them I posted so if your getting that its 4ohm from that then I guess thats what it is.

mikeemurda

I got a question about those batteries.. I know they self charge but would I have to recharge them? Also for the one in the front I would run that from the alternator then to the 2nd battery? or take the battery out and have the one? Im kinda confused with the situation for the batteries. You hook them up just like you would a capacitor? If you could give me a little run down on the batteries thatd be cool. Thanks

MTcX

If there is someway you can get your subs ohm metered to verify their impedance that will be a big help, when i looked up the model number you gave it pulled up dual 4 ohm woofers but then you stated that you have dual 2. If you could get them metered that will help a lot with the confusion.

For batteries there are a couple ways you can wire up multi battery setups in a vehicle. One would be to just wire the batteries in the back in parallel with the battery under the hood which is connected directly to the alternator. When connecting the batteries in the back in parallel to the one up front you simply run the power wire from the positive on the battery up front to the positive on the battery in the rear, if you have more than one battery in the rear then you would just run another power wire from the battery in the back to the second batteries positive terminal and so on for more batteries than that. I recommend having all the batteries in the read grounded out to the same place on the chassis in the rear to help eliminate ground noise. DO NOT run a ground wire from the batteries in the back up to the battery under the hood, that is a very bad ground. The only time you should ground out to the factory battery is if your vehicle has the factory battery mounted in the rear like on the Dodge Magnum or BMW's for example.

The second way to wire up mutliple batteries is with a device called a BATTERY ISOLATOR. What is does is seperate the batteries in the back from the battery up front in a sence that while the vehicle is running and charging the system it wil charge all batteries, but when it is off and the system is off you will only be drainging the batteries in the rear so you don't have to worry about not being to start your car at like a car show. This device is really handy if you plan on showing your car alot and dont believe you will be able to start your engine or think you'll be running the system for a long period of time with the engine off. Problem with running the batteries down like that is once the voltage drops below 12 volts for a long period of time you can do damage to the amplifier, at this point you would want ot look at a power supply for your vehicle which can be plugged into the wall and connected to your batteries which will convert the AC power to DC and help keep your batteries charged.

A normal car battery charger will not work in this case since they generally are no more than 11 amps of current and most power supplies are over 100 amps if not 200 amps. It is my stong recommendation to never run your system with the engine off unless you have a power supply connected. A good power supply will run you about $500, the brand power supply that I recommend using is by CASCADE which is what we use in our show room and if you go to any audio competition you will see most competitors using them as well.

nodsetse

Same here, we're cool.

MTcX

scionetics

don't know how loud you really want to go...
but all this talk about a bigger battery, a second battery, 2000 watt RMS amps,
0 gauge power wire is IMO all overkill. Just b/c a speaker
is rated at 1000 watts RMS doesn't mean you have to buy
a 1000 watt RMS amp to push it.
I've got 2- 12" don't remember the specs. I am only pushing
~250 watts RMS at best per 12" with an amp that is at least 6 years old.
This is well below the rated RMS for the speakers.
The bass is clear and clean, and it booms like no other
when I choose to do so. So loud in fact that the gains on amp is 1/2 way up and sub level on
stereo is only 1/3 up. I believe I used only an 8 or 10 gauge power wire which is
more than sufficient. I even had a
cap ready to install but didn't see the need for it.

Of course what is stated in the above replies is theoretically
true, you just don't need to go to that extent and end up saving money in the end.
A poorly done install with the best parts will sound like crap compared to
a well done install with mediocre parts.

mikeemurda

alright its 4ohm duel voice coils i found out for sure.

In reply to scionetics I want to go loud and pound i dont want any farts i want to rattle house windows when i drive by >;)

nebster

i'd go a nine.1 from ED

mikeemurda

$350 1200rms pretty sweet and I hear alot of good things on the fourms about ED I'll prob do that much more around the price range I was lookin for.

nebster

and with the SL discount its like 275. you could get 2 for the price u were thinking about

mandos

silly ben, it's $315, not $275...

nodsetse

Please don't be a jerk, pound yourself silly on the inside, but keep it quiet on the outside.

mikeemurda

lol i was just using it to explain what i ment not litteraly not in residential areas at least i respect that... but thanks for the info on the amp def gonna buy 2 of those much better.

nebster

i was silly. it is 315 i couldn't remember how much the discount was. either way its way worth it

MTcX

to keep your car quiet I recommend HUSHMAT, best stuff over there....DYNOMAT is overrated.

Since you have dual 4 ohm woofers I strongly recommend the TA81001 which you can then run at a 1 ohm load. You WILL need to run 1/0 power and ground cable and I recommend an extra battery and upgraded battery under the hood if you don't want severe damage to your alternator and your lights dimming.

I normally don't recommend underpowering a woofer by less than 50% the RMS power.

mikeemurda

The sub is 750rms and the amp is 1200rms at 1ohm I think that would be sufficent? No? Plus it's cheaper less $ = better for me and ED does alot of competition work and they use their own stuff I think it would be reliable too. Even thought its def not as sexy as that mtx is its gonna be hidden and doing its job.

mandos

A Nine.1 will do fine for you...just please deaden your car...people really don't appreciate windows rattling. There's a reason laws are passed that cut down what we can put in our cars

mikeemurda

Ya thats what I thought. and I'am deadening my car and as I said before I was just using that "rattle house windows" as a desciption of power! Not in any means litterally. I have respect for others.

mandos

Just had to make sure...you'd be surprised how many people want to do just that...