it actually sounds pretty good with the stock head unit, we changed out all the speakers for pioneer 3 way speakers so that helped.......hopefully we will change the head unit soon though

+sorry not sure how to rotate the pics+

 

^ oh ok thats cool man i bet your system is gonna bump alot harder once you change it, i had mine with stock and it hardly bump and after i changed it man its was like a whole new system lol

 

yeah thats what i was thinking... probably would sound alot better with an upgraded HU

 

TC by TRD you have a PM sir!! please give me a call!

 

replied, thanks man

 

 

Carbon fiber/fiberglass box is in progress. This is what I have for now.

 

Interesting, Lil Will, why is your box very wide? To make the Bass sound good or louder? Just curious cuz I've a 6000 watt 12inches Pioneer Subwoofer and I don't know which custom box should I go for, one inches MDF bandpass box just enough to hold the 6000 watt but pushing only 3000 watt mono amp from Pioneer or an sealed/ported box. I'm still debating on which and also would like to have a a little special fiberglass to see through on top of the box with CCFL blue light to see the inner sub.

 

What the heck is 6000 watts?...That is so ridiculous

 

That box was built specifically for that sub. It requires a lot of airspace (2.5 cubic feet after displacement) It is tuned to 32hz.

 

Eldiablo, I am not sure what your question is. If you are trying to build a custom box for your sub then you should go with what the manufacturer recommends. I do not like bandpass boxes. I prefer ported. I think you need to check the rms on that sub becuase I do not think pioneer makes a 6000 watt sub.

 

He might have this sub:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...969848,00.html

"...Titanium Voice Coil Former (Bobbin)
With up to 6000 watts running through the voice coil, an exceptionally strong former is required. Pioneer now uses Titanium, one of the strongest materials available. The result is 565% stronger than the former design..."

This particular subwoofer was bread from SPL competition, and IMO is a bit ridiculous to use in any other application.

My guess is he's got this amplifier too:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...869139,00.html

You can "Externally Bridge" a pair of them together to obtain 6000 watts, but again, unless you're doing SPL competition, and have done your homework, these might not be the best fit for you...

I suggest a much more realistic subwoofer setup. Find a more efficient subwoofer(s), and maximize cone surface area. Give the sub(s) enough room to breath and operate to their potential.

 

You can never go by the "max" power rating. you should figure out what the RMS power is at 13 volts or less to get a real world idea of what you got going on there. I bench test all my amps at 13-13.3 volts to get a good idea of what RMS power I will see in the car.

 

Hope if you install that subwoofer that you dynamat the trunk like crazy. With that sub wouldn't the rear window shatter?

 

omg that thing is huge

 

no my buddy has this already

 

looks like a rocket

 

My setup. Enjoy!

 

Now that is bad ___! how much did that cost ya? That is what i want my trunk to look light with plecksy glass over it so i can actually use my trunk when i need. Get back at me.

 

Now that is bad ___! how much did that cost ya? That is what i want my trunk to look light with plecksy glass over it so i can actually use my trunk when i need. Get back at me.