Power getting sapped
Originally Posted by WeaponX6X
Anyone have pics of the Big 3 done in their tC?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/861695/3 Just click each pic to enlarge it, he/she does a step by step of what they did when they mounted it to the car.
You should really do a high cranking amps battery right at the power connections to the AMP like a Red Top Optima - they respond faster to current demands and hold up the voltage better then a stiffener cap which is also a good idea but you need a really big stiffener cap for bass filtering. Putting a really good battery right at the amp solves the cabling issue since you don't have to worry about voltage drops in the cables to the main battery and alternator or the chassis grounds for that matter either. And forget about the heavy duty chassis connections - the steel chassis has more resisstance than the copper cable you are using - just run the copper cable to the amps positive AND negative connections from the battery Positive and Negative clamps and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt.
Originally Posted by amdforever
Saying what? 
NVM, I think I figured it out :D
NVM, I think I figured it out :D

I do things like that too...in phases...I've found myself starting many sentences with "Yeah" recently...not sure why...I also like ellipses.
Originally Posted by amdforever
What's "loomed" mean and I like the wire covers, makes it look nice and not some science project under the hood. Gives it a somewhat stock look.
i'm running just shy of 800watts rms from an mtx mono block class D and i get no dimming at all, my deck has voltage readout and i have never seen my voltage drop more than .3 even on the most demanding music. the only time i saw dimming in the tc was when i ran a rockford fosgate 801s at 2 ohms bridged for a night(they aren't meant to be bridged at 2 ohms, and they get extremely hot extremely quick doing it). but with that little power i'm shocked to hear of dimming.
Originally Posted by ADRdesignCo
thanks amd. what deck are you running tcguy? i plan to test it again with 600w and check my dimming.
Originally Posted by ADRdesignCo
Oo i was goign to get that deck too but i decided to go all out and the d3.. i really miss the hi-volt outs :/
im more of a pioneer guy myself. not too big a fan of alpine to be honest. user interface just doesnt work for me i guess. lol. i had a 8600deh before. that was darn sweet. sometimes i even miss the sound controls that i had on that deck vs. the d3.
yes the alpines interface has always sucked. the alpine decks went all to hell the last couple years anyway. back when they used v-drive and had the parametric EQ's they were awesome.
anyway..... back to the dimming topic, i forgot to mention i have 3 one farad caps in my car as well, and they do work. i tried a little expirement one night, i unhooked 2 and just tried one of the 3 and the lights were just slightly dimming and the bass started to sound kinda sloppy at high volumes. so i hooked the other 2 back up and it's all good again.
i had a lot more power in my last car and i found 3 cheap(about $150 for 3) on ebay so i bought them... so if anybody is wondering why i paid for 3 caps. lol
anyway..... back to the dimming topic, i forgot to mention i have 3 one farad caps in my car as well, and they do work. i tried a little expirement one night, i unhooked 2 and just tried one of the 3 and the lights were just slightly dimming and the bass started to sound kinda sloppy at high volumes. so i hooked the other 2 back up and it's all good again.
i had a lot more power in my last car and i found 3 cheap(about $150 for 3) on ebay so i bought them... so if anybody is wondering why i paid for 3 caps. lol
Originally Posted by Jan06xB
You should really do a high cranking amps battery right at the power connections to the AMP like a Red Top Optima - they respond faster to current demands and hold up the voltage better then a stiffener cap which is also a good idea but you need a really big stiffener cap for bass filtering. Putting a really good battery right at the amp solves the cabling issue since you don't have to worry about voltage drops in the cables to the main battery and alternator or the chassis grounds for that matter either. And forget about the heavy duty chassis connections - the steel chassis has more resisstance than the copper cable you are using - just run the copper cable to the amps positive AND negative connections from the battery Positive and Negative clamps and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt.
a high performance batter does help dimming, however for this application, and him running as many watts as he is, its seems overkill. and adding a secondary battery for his purpose is even more overkill.
"and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt."
wouldnt that mean he would still have to run a cable from the engine bay to the trunk where the amp is. which is roughly about 12-16ft. and you will stll have to worry about voltage drop.
"and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt."
wouldnt that mean he would still have to run a cable from the engine bay to the trunk where the amp is. which is roughly about 12-16ft. and you will stll have to worry about voltage drop.









