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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:47 AM
  #21  
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Anyone have pics of the Big 3 done in their tC?
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WeaponX6X
Anyone have pics of the Big 3 done in their tC?
Ask and you shall recieve http://www.cardomain.com/ride/861695/3 Just click each pic to enlarge it, he/she does a step by step of what they did when they mounted it to the car.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:56 AM
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Thanks, you enjoy saying that don't you?
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:59 AM
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Saying what?


NVM, I think I figured it out :D
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:10 AM
  #25  
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You guys are the shi*. Thanks a bunch.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:15 AM
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from the +bat to the +alt (this is the alt)


engine to chasis ground


-battery to chasis ground


all done in 4awg and loomed
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #27  
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You should really do a high cranking amps battery right at the power connections to the AMP like a Red Top Optima - they respond faster to current demands and hold up the voltage better then a stiffener cap which is also a good idea but you need a really big stiffener cap for bass filtering. Putting a really good battery right at the amp solves the cabling issue since you don't have to worry about voltage drops in the cables to the main battery and alternator or the chassis grounds for that matter either. And forget about the heavy duty chassis connections - the steel chassis has more resisstance than the copper cable you are using - just run the copper cable to the amps positive AND negative connections from the battery Positive and Negative clamps and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:22 AM
  #28  
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What's "loomed" mean and I like the wire covers, makes it look nice and not some science project under the hood. Gives it a somewhat stock look.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by amdforever
Saying what?


NVM, I think I figured it out :D
Ask and you shall recieve

I do things like that too...in phases...I've found myself starting many sentences with "Yeah" recently...not sure why...I also like ellipses.

Originally Posted by amdforever
What's "loomed" mean and I like the wire covers, makes it look nice and not some science project under the hood. Gives it a somewhat stock look.
hehe, looms are wire covers
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:40 AM
  #30  
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^ what he said about the loomed thing. haha.. the black covers atop of the cable. lol
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:48 AM
  #31  
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Oh, nice They still make it look nice
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:00 AM
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i'm running just shy of 800watts rms from an mtx mono block class D and i get no dimming at all, my deck has voltage readout and i have never seen my voltage drop more than .3 even on the most demanding music. the only time i saw dimming in the tc was when i ran a rockford fosgate 801s at 2 ohms bridged for a night(they aren't meant to be bridged at 2 ohms, and they get extremely hot extremely quick doing it). but with that little power i'm shocked to hear of dimming.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:02 AM
  #33  
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thanks amd. what deck are you running tcguy? i plan to test it again with 600w and check my dimming.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:05 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ADRdesignCo
thanks amd. what deck are you running tcguy? i plan to test it again with 600w and check my dimming.
Pioneer DEH-7800MP. i like it a lot even though it's not a double din tv like i wanted.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:21 AM
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Oo i was goign to get that deck too but i decided to go all out and the d3.. i really miss the hi-volt outs :/
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ADRdesignCo
Oo i was goign to get that deck too but i decided to go all out and the d3.. i really miss the hi-volt outs :/
i love it though, it's got lot of settings and features. it gets loud and sounds great doing it to. my last deck was an alpine 9813 and this is a lil better in my opinion, some might argue that though as the older alpines were sweet.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:30 AM
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im more of a pioneer guy myself. not too big a fan of alpine to be honest. user interface just doesnt work for me i guess. lol. i had a 8600deh before. that was darn sweet. sometimes i even miss the sound controls that i had on that deck vs. the d3.
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:52 AM
  #38  
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yes the alpines interface has always sucked. the alpine decks went all to hell the last couple years anyway. back when they used v-drive and had the parametric EQ's they were awesome.

anyway..... back to the dimming topic, i forgot to mention i have 3 one farad caps in my car as well, and they do work. i tried a little expirement one night, i unhooked 2 and just tried one of the 3 and the lights were just slightly dimming and the bass started to sound kinda sloppy at high volumes. so i hooked the other 2 back up and it's all good again.

i had a lot more power in my last car and i found 3 cheap(about $150 for 3) on ebay so i bought them... so if anybody is wondering why i paid for 3 caps. lol
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 04:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jan06xB
You should really do a high cranking amps battery right at the power connections to the AMP like a Red Top Optima - they respond faster to current demands and hold up the voltage better then a stiffener cap which is also a good idea but you need a really big stiffener cap for bass filtering. Putting a really good battery right at the amp solves the cabling issue since you don't have to worry about voltage drops in the cables to the main battery and alternator or the chassis grounds for that matter either. And forget about the heavy duty chassis connections - the steel chassis has more resisstance than the copper cable you are using - just run the copper cable to the amps positive AND negative connections from the battery Positive and Negative clamps and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt.
NONE of this is true. Stop posting "advice". PLEASE read: www.bcae1.com
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 04:51 AM
  #40  
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a high performance batter does help dimming, however for this application, and him running as many watts as he is, its seems overkill. and adding a secondary battery for his purpose is even more overkill.

"and maybe run an extra ground from the battery to the alternator frame bolt."

wouldnt that mean he would still have to run a cable from the engine bay to the trunk where the amp is. which is roughly about 12-16ft. and you will stll have to worry about voltage drop.



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