you should use 4gauge wire.

 

...well the subs might be going on and off because the impedance (ohm load) might not be wired correctly with your subs/amp. Do you know what model sub/amp you have? And what's it's ratings are? Does it get hot when it cuts off?
*IF* that's not the case then your system might be "clipping" which means the output of the RCA's to the amp is at a voltage which the amp cannot handle so it clips.
The wiring shouldn't be of importance but recommended for 1200 Watt Kenwood amp should be 8GA should be OKAY but 4GA would be better and you wouldn't have to upgrade if you decide to get another amp.
Just my opinion. Let me know how it goes.

 

wow ok thanks for the help i already did a Reply saying the model number for both the amp and the subs atleast i believe i did? the amp said 1 ohm stable so if i did it to 2 ohms. it should be able to power that fine, Correct?

 

...hmmm my fault then. Well if it's 1 ohm stable make sure you don't wire your subs to lower than 1ohm - otherwise that would cause it to cut out. How did you wire your subs? Did you run it parallel (cross positive to positive and then negative to negative on both subs then directly out of the box to your amp) or series (positive to negative to positive to negative and out to your amp)? If it's dual 4ohm and your running series - you should be good. BUT if you're dual 2ohm and your running series (which might be the case) you're running too low of an impedance for the amp too handle. So in this case - it's not the WIRES your using but the way the subs your wiring. Just open up the sub box and tell me how it looks in there.

 

at the moment i am running them parallel, with 12 gauge wire. I havn't got to try them like this yet im waiting for my damn car to get back from the shop. so i dont know if they will be fixed yet but man thanks for the help so far i really appricate this.

 

so i tryed that out yesterday and same stuff happened would either blow my fuses if i turned up the bass, or just stop working at random times and start working again.

 

Hmmm..too bad you're in Ohio - otherwise we'd check it out for free. Well, all I can say is make sure none of your connections are grounding out? Make sure the RCA's are good and not being pinched by anything. Lastly, run 1 sub at a time and see if it does the same thing. *IF* it does - then they're might be something screwy/loose within the amp itself.

 

ur amp is going into protect mode and shuts off automatically to keep from frying its internals. just going off of what u said u have 2 2 ohm subs wired in parallel off a bridged channel correct? now when u bridge an amp the bridge channel is 1/2 the ohms of the stereo channel. 2 2 ohm subs wired in parallel will yield u 1 ohm but when u put that 1 ohm load to a bridged channel its actually .5 ohm only. that is y ur amp is shutting off and then coming back on when the internals cools down enuff. kenwoods are nice amps but they are notorious for this problem. only top of the line amps are .5 ohm stable when bridged so if u want to wire ur subs like that then i suggest u upgrade ur amp. if i were u i would wire the subs in series instead. (put the postive side from bridge channel to the + of one of the subs. then put the negative side from the bridge channel to - of the other sub. then put a wire connecting the + of one of the subs to the - of the other sub. here is a crappy diagram i did on paint. don't laugh. this should help u with ur problem.

 

alright ill try this in the morning, i love this site so much thanks for all your guys help!

 

...someone that KNOWS his "ohm's" - even the picasso rendition is done in detail! LOL! Honestly, great explanation tc-guy! Kudos!

 

thanks jls. i knew u all would like my chicken scratch diagram.
i have had the same problem with kenwood amps in the past. they sound great when bridged......until they shut off.

 

check your ground, make sure there is no paint between it and the metal. Make sure the screw is tight.

 

Why say you'll try it if you don't intend to? What he told you to do doesn't apply specifically to your system, because he didn't read the thread to see exactly what type of amp & subs you have and how they're currently wired. Do you even realize you're not using a stereo amp in bridged mode like he implied?

I already effectively told you the same thing, that your mono amp was likely going into protection mode due to the load (even though it's supposed to be able to handle it), and I informed you how to wire it so that shouldn't be an issue. At that time you said you'd try it, but it appears you never did.

At this point I'm beginning to wonder if you understand enough to do anything about such an issue, whether you really want to resolve it...or even if the issue actually exists.

 

um........ i dunno what ur problem is but u need to chill. i always read the whole post before i post anything. no, he didn't give the exact model # of the amp but he said it was a kenwood 1800 watt amp and pioneer subs. he did say he was a noob. do a quick google search and u will get one of these. http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/stock01/kac9152d.asp
and thats just one of them. all the kenwood 1800 watt amps i saw from the search are mono (meaning one channel so how is it not running in a "bridge mode"? thats the only mode it can run in when its mono.) and he did say he had 2 2 ohm subs wired in parallel. maybe u should do a lil research before u go flying off at the mouth. so i was just trying to help. are u one of those people that only helps someone if u get credited for it? if thats the case, man u are sad. u told him how to fix it and if he didn't y get mad about. doesn't make sense.

 

You may have read the "whole post", implying the OP's initial post, but you either didn't read the rest of the thread, or didn't comprehend it.

Yes, he did give the exact model of both amp and subs, and if you'll read the thread instead of just his first post, you could see that info. I looked into both, and provided him with appropriate replies, specifically for his system. You gave him inappropriate info because you didn't bother to read the thread, and made an incorrect guess. I can't believe you didn't even bother to read the exchanges between myself and the OP before you replied as you did, because anyone in their right mind wouldn't have made such a reply, had they understood those posts.

While your explanation about load considerations for two-channel amps was correct, it isn't applicable to this scenario, because he's using a mono amp. Given your statements, it's evident you don't understand the difference between a true mono amp and a bridged 2-channel amp. No, they don't have the same load considerations, and no, a mono amp like he's using is NOT a 2-channel amp bridged internally. You obviously need to educate yourself about the differences between them, especially if you're going to try and advise someone whe's depending on the input of others, as they might act upon your input, not knowing you were wrong.

As for your personal derogatory comments toward me, you sure read a lot into what's not there, as your statements are way off base. I don't think such attacks are so bad when the one pointing their finger (you) has a case, but that's certainly not the situation here. Read the entire thread, take the time to comprehend it, then you may realize you need to take your own advice to "do a lil research before u go flying off at the mouth", as you put it. Beyond that, if and when you do realize your error and see there was no need to speculate on my personality, I doubt you'll be man enough to apologize.

 

Hmmm just in time for the new movie


FLAME ON!

 

^ Not from me, my post was simply trying to protect myself, and with the flames that hit me I needed an asbestos suit!

 

i have had this similar problem with my alpine type r's... my proble was that my rc remote wire to my amp was screw down on the plastic coating on the wire... so i had to strip the coating back and they worked fine ever since... but it could be anything from overheating the amp to sumthing little like a short somewhere... best thing u can do is just troubleshoot ... and if that dont work take it to a audio specialist place

 

18 guage on what? seriously you should be running 4 guage for the power and ground, 14 guage for you remote and at the least 12 guage for your amp to speaker wire. you loosing all kinds of power somewhere and 18 guage does not let the juice flow like it needs to power subs. Inform me more on what wires you are using where and how many times there spliced before they get to where they need to be.

City-Soundz.com

 

i was only using 18 guage for the speakers to the amp the power is 4 gauge now im using 12 guage for the speakers to the amp