i put the oem battery in and put a large ground from the battery to the engine block and the problem is gone. i think the old yellow top was bad.

thanks for all the help

 

Well if that's what I had said, I would agree with you. However.....

before you tell someone they themselves, or the information they post is ignorant, you should have a clear understanding of what they said, as well as the argument in general. In no way did I ever state, suggest, imply, or otherwise mention that a cap was like a jet engine. If you re-read my post, and you comprehend what I said, you'll understand that this is what I was suggesting:

Installing a bigger battery, better alt, and upgrading the wire, was overkill for a problem that occurs only when driving at night, with the amp/subs on. I was comparing that thought, to adding a jet engine to a car, because someone wants it to "go faster". I'll rehash it for you since you didn't get it the first time; If the persons problem was dimming lights while night driving and playng music, the person should start small, and work his way up the ladder. Replace the big 3 wires, then go to a cap, then replace the alternator/battery.

If you don't agree with what I said, fine so be it. But telling me I'm ignorant when 1) you don't know a damn thing about me, 2) you don't even read/understand what I said(evident since you paraphrased my comments as comparing a cap to jet engine) makes *you* look ignorant, not me.


I'm glad Garful got his problem fixed in the cheapest manner possible

 

Okay, go buy 100 capacitors and tell me how well the problem gets solved.

 

Maybe not well explained... but he is correct. A capacitor deals with transient spikes and short duration bursts due to its filtering property. If he is experiencing short duration dimming of the lights, a cap may be all he needs. However, if the system is constantly drawing more current than the charging system can supply, then more upgrades are needed. Remember that the charging system has to supply all of the current drawn by the entire system, regardless of caps or batteries.

 

Wow, all the tripe in here would gag a goat. Guys, please follow this quote: It's better to be silent and thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt! Follow Engifineer's advice...he is correct.

Stiffening Caps
What are they? What do they do, really?

This definition will be in its simplest form. You will see audio capacitors referred to as Stiffening Capacitors. A capacitor is a devise that stores electrical energy. Well, you say that’s what a battery does. Well yes it does, but the difference is the ability and speed that this electrical energy is able to be discharged.

Batteries are designed to store electrical energy for long periods of time. A battery also discharges slowly. A capacitor charges and discharges very rapidly. The reason behind this is due to the internal resistance of both devices. A battery has a high resistance that allows for long-term energy storage and a slow discharge. The capacitor has virtually no internal resistance, which allows for rapid charges and discharges.

An amplifier requires current as music signal passes through it. This creates transient signals in the amplifier. The problem occurs when many of these signal come in rapid succession in a short period of time. The time we are talking about are very small fractions of a second (milliseconds). If your electrical system is unable to react to this it causes a sagging effect in the audio output.

As the current goes up, so must the voltage. Since you can’t increase the voltage as the current requirement increases we get a decrease in voltage and this decrease in voltage causes a sagging power supply. Amplifiers work best at 14.5 volts and can easily overcome a factory installed alternator current output capacity. When the engine is turned off, the system requirements are supplied by the battery increasing the problem of supplying the transient requirements. You could add 10 or 20 more batteries and it wouldn’t help. Remember, as we explained above batteries can’t supply energy quickly enough to supply the transient needs of the amplifier. Please note that these transients may be 100 amps. They occur so fast that your fuse will not be effected, remember this takes place in milliseconds.

By adding a large stiffening capacitor to your amplifier input power line you should be able to meet these transient requirements. Remember as we explained above, a capacitor can store energy very fast and discharge energy very fast. This should solve the transient current requirement to the amplifier.

The voltage of the capacitor can only be the same as the alternator output or if the engine is off, to the level of the battery. So, as you can see a capacitor doesn’t maintain battery levels. If you are still having energy shortages to operate your system you may need to look into a high output alternator.

 

hmmmm

 

Again, nice explanation!

 

Wow I am happy to see that there are a few people that understand basic physics. I see so many people that want to make big power with small power wire, small fuses, under sized alternators, stock batteries..... There are a lot of "quick fixes and band aids but there are no magic short cuts. It is all very simple. You have to have big power to make big power.

P.S.
If anyone really wants to upgrade their alternator I would be happy to try to help you get a good price.

 

engifineer, I just cut and pasted it from the other thread....too much retyping

boom12v, you would probably find a great market in here if you know of some good pricing for alt rewinds or even alt replacement. Seen many threads of people needing this (they just don't know they need it ).

 

I have some contacts that are making great replacment alts. Good prices I am willing to help just let me know

 

Ahhh, I just noticed your with Memphis Car Audio My daughter is saving up for your components for her TC. We were talking last night and she said she should be ready to buy by the end of April (2 more paychecks). MClass series all the way

 

Thank you the kind words. I am sure she will enjoy them PM me if you have any questions.

 

i just installed 2-12" infinity subs with a kenwood 900 watt amp, and when i raise the volume at night with my light on, i don't notice any dimming....looks fine to me....

in my other car (98 corolla), it basically has the same setup except it has a 1 farad, and turning the stereo up halfway, my lights start to dim....maybe i run new grounds in the engine bay....if that doesn't work, i'll look into the yellow top.

 

Doesn't get it.

 

and it's staring him in the face. Maybe he needs an ALTernative solution

 

I hope you can't get warned by site admin for bad jokes.

 

 

LOL...thanks for the laugh.....as horrible as it is