Aluminum Light Weight Flywheel
01-14-2005, 04:48 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by aarontrini85
more power to the wheels becouse its less weight to get spining so it takes less power to turn it its supposed to be good for about 10ftlb of tourq on most cars from what ive heard
but you know how that goes
but you know how that goes
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=324842 I am an owner of a 98 Nissan Maxima Myself and have the aluminum flywheel in there.
Here is a review by someone: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=fidanza
We have been selling Aluminum Flywheels for quite some time now here is our ebay rating: http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/...me=STRK:ME:UFS
This is only for flywheels.
01-14-2005, 04:49 PM
#22
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We have sold Aluminum flywheels for almost every car out there. This will be an amazing product.
I am awaiting a fax with exact specs of the flywheel so I can upload it to the forum.
We will offer the best possible price.
I am awaiting a fax with exact specs of the flywheel so I can upload it to the forum.
We will offer the best possible price.
01-14-2005, 04:56 PM
#24
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btw we sold plenty of flywheels for the Toyota Solara both 2.2 and 3.0 our customers locally have been driving with them for years and love them. I have an Aluminum Flywheel for about 3 years now and when i was doing my clutch job it still looked brand new as it looked from day one.
01-14-2005, 05:07 PM
#26
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My original question is just on the grade of aluminum used. 6061 is a lot more ductile than 7075, and it will be exposed to a lot of heat (making it more ductile). I just want to be assured that 6061 was proven to work and not just chosen cause its cheap.
I tried to let people know in all that technical stuff both sides of the story, and that more than likely you won't notice the bad stuff. However, it will impact other things, and people often don't consider that. Especially (no offense) younger guys out there trying to get all they can without researching it. Its like the guy you hear at the gas station who has a super hot cam in his car. He can barely keep the car running at idle since he bought the "fastest" thing available. That fast upgrade can really hurt drivability.
I tried to let people know in all that technical stuff both sides of the story, and that more than likely you won't notice the bad stuff. However, it will impact other things, and people often don't consider that. Especially (no offense) younger guys out there trying to get all they can without researching it. Its like the guy you hear at the gas station who has a super hot cam in his car. He can barely keep the car running at idle since he bought the "fastest" thing available. That fast upgrade can really hurt drivability.
01-14-2005, 05:14 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by TKE_BH964
My original question is just on the grade of aluminum used. 6061 is a lot more ductile than 7075, and it will be exposed to a lot of heat (making it more ductile). I just want to be assured that 6061 was proven to work and not just chosen cause its cheap.
I tried to let people know in all that technical stuff both sides of the story, and that more than likely you won't notice the bad stuff. However, it will impact other things, and people often don't consider that. Especially (no offense) younger guys out there trying to get all they can without researching it. Its like the guy you hear at the gas station who has a super hot cam in his car. He can barely keep the car running at idle since he bought the "fastest" thing available. That fast upgrade can really hurt drivability.
I tried to let people know in all that technical stuff both sides of the story, and that more than likely you won't notice the bad stuff. However, it will impact other things, and people often don't consider that. Especially (no offense) younger guys out there trying to get all they can without researching it. Its like the guy you hear at the gas station who has a super hot cam in his car. He can barely keep the car running at idle since he bought the "fastest" thing available. That fast upgrade can really hurt drivability.
I will keep everyone updated as the information becomes available to us.
Keep in mind we only want to sell the best quality product if it is not the best we will not invest our time or money in to it and will scrap the project.
We are tuners like yourself and only want the best for our customers.
I will post an update soon.
Thanks,
Ray
01-14-2005, 05:23 PM
#28
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Thanks, I would hope that no company intentionally sells a bad product. I am not trying to deminish your company by any means, just expressing a bit of concern about the material chosen. This concern was backed up when I noticed HKS's flywheel was made of chrome molly steel. I then pulled some material specs (don't have them right now) last night and looked at values for 6061 and 7075 aluminum. You had stated earlier the flywheel was made of 6061 aluminum. I think it would be disasterous if you guys came out with a weak flywheel, and was just trying to see your line of thought on the material selection.
That being said, if the engineer says it will work, then I know he has his career at your company, and the respect of the public, behind that product so it will most likely work.
If 6061 is proven to work, then by all means go for it, it will save you guys a ton of money.
That being said, if the engineer says it will work, then I know he has his career at your company, and the respect of the public, behind that product so it will most likely work.
If 6061 is proven to work, then by all means go for it, it will save you guys a ton of money.
01-14-2005, 05:46 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by TKE_BH964
Alright, I am getting backed into a techinical corner here with no calculations to back anything up. I am trying to generalize things so its easier to understand.
It is hard to get a magnitude number on something, engines are kinda tricky, there is a lot going on there.
More than likely a lightweight flywheel will only hurt performance at low RPM, at higher RPM things are moving quicker and this will make up for it. Although at higher RPM the unbalancing issue is accelerated and bearing life decreases due to oscillations that weren't there before.
Adding weight to your car can be good or bad too (usually bad duh), it will definately make things slower, but it will make things slower at all speeds, not just low RPM. Extra weight could be a good thing as it makes a car more stable. If you hit a bump in a light car you are more likely to get tossed around, whereas the same bump at same speed with a heavy car isn't going to affect you as much.
I probably won't get the lightweight flywheel (any manufacturer) I do not plan to take my tC to a track of any kind. More than likely the good outweighs the bad things going on. If your car is a daily driver and you plan on keeping it for a long time, then long term effects (bearing life) could become costly down the road. If I was buying a recreational vehicle that would only get driven on the weekends and at the drag strip or road coarse every once in a while, you bet I would buy a lightweight flywheel. Parasitic losses on an average engine can be up to 15% of bhp if I remember right.
Engines are very complex systems that involve just about every area of mechanical(and now electrical and even computer) engineering. You have the thermodynamics of the fuel, fluid dynamics of the fuel air mixture going into the engine, the obvious dynamic considerations of pistons, valves, and everything else, and don't forget about heat transfer. Anything you do to an engine has a cause and effect. For every good there is a bad. Engine designers weigh all these options when designing something. The flywheel on any car was designed to have a certain weight and weight distribution for a reason.
I don't have my refrences with me at the current moment, so if anyone is wanting specifics on general engine design, I will have to get back to you.
It is hard to get a magnitude number on something, engines are kinda tricky, there is a lot going on there.
More than likely a lightweight flywheel will only hurt performance at low RPM, at higher RPM things are moving quicker and this will make up for it. Although at higher RPM the unbalancing issue is accelerated and bearing life decreases due to oscillations that weren't there before.
Adding weight to your car can be good or bad too (usually bad duh), it will definately make things slower, but it will make things slower at all speeds, not just low RPM. Extra weight could be a good thing as it makes a car more stable. If you hit a bump in a light car you are more likely to get tossed around, whereas the same bump at same speed with a heavy car isn't going to affect you as much.
I probably won't get the lightweight flywheel (any manufacturer) I do not plan to take my tC to a track of any kind. More than likely the good outweighs the bad things going on. If your car is a daily driver and you plan on keeping it for a long time, then long term effects (bearing life) could become costly down the road. If I was buying a recreational vehicle that would only get driven on the weekends and at the drag strip or road coarse every once in a while, you bet I would buy a lightweight flywheel. Parasitic losses on an average engine can be up to 15% of bhp if I remember right.
Engines are very complex systems that involve just about every area of mechanical(and now electrical and even computer) engineering. You have the thermodynamics of the fuel, fluid dynamics of the fuel air mixture going into the engine, the obvious dynamic considerations of pistons, valves, and everything else, and don't forget about heat transfer. Anything you do to an engine has a cause and effect. For every good there is a bad. Engine designers weigh all these options when designing something. The flywheel on any car was designed to have a certain weight and weight distribution for a reason.
I don't have my refrences with me at the current moment, so if anyone is wanting specifics on general engine design, I will have to get back to you.
I can sorta see how the mass of the flywheel is going to affect the balance of the engine and help to smooth it out, and can definitely see it depending on rpms. (Which would mean the flywheel should be weighted to allow "optimal" conditions over a certain range of rpms: presumably the widest or the range the car typically should stay in. Correct?)
Given that, waiting less time between shifts (that's all I'd really care about) isn't worth the extra wear and tear on the engine imo.
01-14-2005, 06:40 PM
#30
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Correct!
Dynamic balancing is not as intuitive as static balancing. Static balancing you can look at a teter (sp?) totter and see that the bigger kid is going to be on the ground. The flywheel isn't what is intended to balance an engine, but changing it could effect the balance of the engine.
To really get a better understanding of how a flywheel works, it is best to look at something thats constant speed.
I can't say how big of an impact this will have on the life of other engine components, but it will effect things. The wear and tear will most likely be minimal. This is a good modification to do, but I would not do it on my car. My car is going to be a daily driver for the next 7 or 8 years. If I was going to get rid of the car in 4 or 5, I would consider buying one. People don't realize how big of a performance robber parasitic losses are. Parasitic loss is the loss created by everything on the engine itself that turns, but not the actual engine. Things like all of your accessories (water pump, air conditioner, power steering, etc) cause parasitic loss. Anything you can do to reduce these is more or less free horsepower.
Keep in mind I am looking at things from an engineering design viewpoint. If there is an engine builder that could help me out with how big of an impact the flywheel will affect the overall balance of the engine, because it is honestly something I have never researched. Using basic principles is where the flag went up in my head.
Dynamic balancing is not as intuitive as static balancing. Static balancing you can look at a teter (sp?) totter and see that the bigger kid is going to be on the ground. The flywheel isn't what is intended to balance an engine, but changing it could effect the balance of the engine.
To really get a better understanding of how a flywheel works, it is best to look at something thats constant speed.
I can't say how big of an impact this will have on the life of other engine components, but it will effect things. The wear and tear will most likely be minimal. This is a good modification to do, but I would not do it on my car. My car is going to be a daily driver for the next 7 or 8 years. If I was going to get rid of the car in 4 or 5, I would consider buying one. People don't realize how big of a performance robber parasitic losses are. Parasitic loss is the loss created by everything on the engine itself that turns, but not the actual engine. Things like all of your accessories (water pump, air conditioner, power steering, etc) cause parasitic loss. Anything you can do to reduce these is more or less free horsepower.
Keep in mind I am looking at things from an engineering design viewpoint. If there is an engine builder that could help me out with how big of an impact the flywheel will affect the overall balance of the engine, because it is honestly something I have never researched. Using basic principles is where the flag went up in my head.
01-28-2005, 07:20 PM
#35
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10 in stock call us toll free 1-877-858-7272 ask for Ray
while they are in stock retail price is $450 your price is $325 + shipping.
They will be gone fast so jump on this great deal.
Light weight flywheel is 9.75 pounds.
while they are in stock retail price is $450 your price is $325 + shipping.
They will be gone fast so jump on this great deal.
Light weight flywheel is 9.75 pounds.
02-20-2005, 08:29 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by aarontrini85
do you have any dynos for it?
If anyone is willing to do dynos I will sell with a discount call us toll free 1-877-858-7272 ask for Ray
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