The SS-P's are approx 390F/550R or so. You could probably go a bit lower for ride comfort, but I would probably not go much softer. Higher would be better, but those rates are already getting pretty stiff for the daily drive. On a racetrack, closer to 600F/900R is probably better. But that would down right brutal on the street. Plus, on rough streets handling may not be so great then due to the car wanting to skitter around more on the bumps. Based off of mine and what I have heard of others running, especially on the track, I would keep the rear rates approx 150% higher than the fronts for handling balance.

Now, the more exact answer could be had by figuring out the highest suspension frequency you wanted to deal with on the street and then doing all the calcs to get there. Then making sure the dampers are valved to match those spring rates. But that takes a lot more work to figure out than most are willing to do (taking it apart and performing all the measurements and calcs to figure motion ratio, etc) for a daily driver. I plan to do this soon and start building a custom set of coilovers.. but just for a street/show car it is overkill.

 

for me its just a way of life. Every car ive owned has been slammed, I dont think ill ever own a vehicle thats not.

 

Engifineer, based on your spring rate information would a set of F2 coilovers at 400F/600R be within ideal parameters for a daily driver? Sorry, I'm still confused on things and I'd rather not be one of the ones that don't at least dabble in the inner workings of their mods.

Why is the spring rate in the back higher than the front? Isn't there less weight in the rear of the vehicle, that makes me think it would need less. I'm sure there is a reason for this that will make me just smack myself in the forehead but I have to ask.

The F2 coilovers have a standard spring rate of 450 in the front and rear. Is there ever a benefit to having them match rather than being to the ratio of 150% you specified earlier?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the F2 coilovers at a custom rate of 400F/600R based on your information and reoccurring patterns of what people seem to find the happy medium. Got a quote for just under $500 for the installation and alignment , although it does seem high, I'll continue to search my local area for a better deal.

 

Higher rates in the rear on a fwd like ours typically helps the car to rotate easier. Plus, the motion ratios (takes into account the lever arms formed by the control arm end points and the point the strut attaches to) will be different on the front and rear with the front being mcstrut and the rear being a wishbone setup. Very basically, the front strut is attached very close to the hub, while the rear is not. This applies a different percentage of force at the strut compared to the wheel. So spring rates have to change accordingly. Not a very simple answer, but hopefully makes some sense So this generally will require different spring rates on each end by itself.

The spring rates sound fine on what you mentioned. Just be aware that it will be much stiffer than stock. But probably worth it if you are willing to sacrifice some ride comfort for handlings sake.

Not really sure how good the dampers on those are though. Havent heard much either way on their build quality either so I cant say much there.

 

All right, thanks Engifineer. It makes a little more sense to me now why there's two different rates. Gonna do a little more research and hopefully purchase my coilovers tonight. Thanks again!

 

lower it!

 

It's a lifestlye....its worth seeing the looks on everyones faces when you take 5 minutes to get out of a driveway and you leave your bumper behind.

 

its a lifestyle is right. its about pride and making your car look they way you want it to and not what someone else wants it to. most people just say cool you lowered it but its more then that.

 

lol

 

I slam my TC because the stock TC height is a eyesore 4x4