Mines dropped all the way on tein ss-p coilovers and 3 deg of camber so about 3- 3.5 drop im guessing

 

Not true. I switched them today, they will fit in either position. Here are pics of the problem
After disconnecting both ends and working the bar to a better position, I can get full lock turns in both directions while at static height (about 2" drop, I have 25mm from the bottom of the spring collar instead of the 20mm Tein recommends) and everything clears. The pictures are after putting the car on four jackstands, then compressing the corner with the jack until the entire weight of the corner is lifted off the jackstand. I then turned the wheel and observed the swaybar getting pinched hard between the subframe and the tie rod. It does actually limit the wheel's ability to turn. A judicious pinch in the bar here could make a lot of difference. I also spent quite a bit of time working the bar back and forth across the car to find the sweet spot. Even then, a small amount of cold setting on the passenger's side made a lot of difference too.

Here's the real truth: It is highly unlikely I will be making a full lock turn with sufficient force to fully compress either corner on the front, so at this point, I think the issue is solved.

[Side note] Keith, I have no idea why you want to lower the car 3 inches. 2 inches is bad enough, but your roll center has to be pretty close to ground level with a 3 inch drop. Adding the tC's inherently high center of gravity yields a really long roll couple that even the Tein springs can't overcome. There's also practically nothing you can do to fix that problem because you'd need to move the chassis pick up points higher to counteract the problem, and there's no where to go, even if you went to the extreme of building a new subframe, just because of the way the thing is built. [/Side note]

It would seem if the rod connecting the sway to the strut were shorter, this swaybar issue wouldn't be a problem at all.

 

Currently car sits so low cuz of show purposes. But I hate raising it back up and such unless im going to autox it which then its at 2inch drop but I think this problem is still a factor at 2inch drop under hard cornering

 

My setup right now does not hit until I turn more than one full turn of the steering wheel with the corner nearly fully compressed. I haven't autocrossed my tC, but I don't recall having turns that require more than one full turn of the wheel to negotiate. I'm thinking this won't be a problem for most people, but I will say setting up the bar to work right is a lot of work.

There's some more information about this here.

 

lo_bux_racer...

You should email your link of pictures to Hotchkis and just ask them if they could manufacture new endlinks for the front bar. Instead of redesigning their bar, new endlinks would still be an upgrade and not waste too much of their time. I remember using custom built endlinks on my Civic when I did an RSX-S sway bar conversion. The end-links actually made a nice difference, and they didn't snap like the stock ones.

Email them if you could and let us all know how it goes. It's something that shouldn't be ignored.

 

That endlink design is pretty common to Toyota. I'm thinking it might be possible to find another one made by Toyco that is a tad shorter. Then again, a decent tube with a couple of rose joints would probably work pretty well too, and they're not too hard to fabricate.

Yeah, I guess I should send the pics to Hotchkis...

 

Hey everybody,

Sorry I have not gotten a chance to post. I have been out sick. I will be putting my car on the rack tomorrow to check out the front bar. I will keep you guys posted.

 

Awesome! Thanks for your help. That's why we haven't been installing this kit on the car. Once that's resolved I'll be picking a kit up myself.

 

this is a big problem, im going to lift my car up to see if i have the same problem.

 

I am already talking to hotckis... they are on the site and they know about this thread.

Just ask him on here... His name is the company name hotchkis

 

Okay everybody,

I put my personal car on the rack and the bar was not close, but I do have custom bilstiens. Next week we are going to put on a set of bars on a stock car to check it out. I need a favor though. The people with the TEIN coilovers can you please measure them from the bottom of the shock to the center of where the endlink mount is on the body. We would like to check if that mount has been changed from where the factory mount is.

I will keep you guys updated.

 

hmmm this is interesting....

I have both front and rear sways in my garage ready to be installed..

Hotchkis is u need someone lemme know...im in the SoCal area

 

OEM strut from bottom of link mount hole to bottom of body = 200mm

Tein strut, same points, 158.6mm.

Looks like the OEM piece is quite a bit higher, so a shorter link is necessary with Tein suspension.

BTW, overall length is quite a bit shorter as well, at least 50mm.

 

Guess I dont need to measure it...

I thought somthing was fishy

 

Glad I could be of assistance with everyone... now we are in a step in the right direction

 

I'm thinking I might head out to import Pick n' Pull to find some other Toyotas with end links on them that might be the right size. Otherwise, I'll just fab a link with a couple of rose joints and some thick walled tubing.

Hotchkis - do you guys sell adjustable sway links?

 

Bump. I expected to hear something from Hotchkis by now. Any news?

 

Bump for the same reason.

 

Hey everybody,

After doing some research on this problem we have found that the Tein coilovers moves the mounting point for the swaybar endlink down. This then moves the bar down, which when the wheel is turned it will rub on the sway bar. I believe it will also have this problem with the stock bar. At this time we do not have any plans to make a shorter endlink.

 

ok so I just installed the Tien Basics... and hotchkiss sways... this will rub? if so, what am I going to do about it?