Sleeper_TC

I just recently snapped off my rear stud, ive been trying to replace it but ive been having a bit of a problem taking off my rotor and disc (which i believe is one piece.) I was wondering, is there screws on the rotors cause i saw to little holes with threads in them with something on the inside but isnt sure if its a screw or not. Is there anything in particular that i would have to do because i have tried hammering it out and applying wd-40 and pb blaster on it too but it still wont budge. Any ideas or suggestions?!

dropzone

The two threaded holes in the rotor is where screws are put in to help push the rotor off the hub. I do not know the size or pitch but it had been posted before, search it. Also when removing the rear hub DO NOT hit it from the rear side to try to knock it loose, I did that and dented the plastic cover, . I sprayed some WD40 around the edge of it, put the rotor on backwards, hand tightened a couple of lug nuts and hit the rotor with a rubber mallet. This is def not a preferred way to get it out if seized in but I was in a rush late in the day.

Thermos2003

You probably already did, but make sure the E-brake is off.

Sleeper_TC

Oh ok i got but mine looks rusted in there. i dont see any indents for a certain kind of screws in the rotors though

chubbykai

iTrader: (1)

you have to go and get screws. they were never there to begin with. it just helps mechanics push the disc off the hub.

dropzone

^This, I mentioned that you'll have to source them, just likely worded it weird.

Sleeper_TC

I figured it out lol, took a lil while cause i couldnt find the right size of screw. its a 13mm screw, got it on and got it off but comes to find out that theres drum brakes behind that lol. learned my lesson about breaking my studs!!!

LEDeZ

Anti seize always help with lugnuts..unless you live near the beach. :?

dropzone

The brake shoes are for the parking brake setup, nothing the worry about. Since it's broken it shouldnt be a problem to hit it out without removing the hub, just will have to check for clearance. I was swapping to extended wheel studs so not much of a choice but to remove the hub completely(was easier to work with this way for me, just some extra work for removal) there's an electrical connection that need to be unplugged and unbolt the bracket for it to have some room to work with. I would put a lug nut on the wheel stud to make an easier target when hitting with a hammer.