Official Raceland Coilovers Thread
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 351
From: Suffolk LI, NY
do it rob lol soo worth it imo. still haven't had any problems after an auto-x, 8 months or so of hardcore daily driving, and adjusting it several times. well worth the money to me
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 205
From: Chicago, IL, USA
I seriously can't believe I actually read all TWO HUNDRED AND FOUR pages worth of posts in this thread including all the absurd thread jacking moments about Nikon cameras, headlight ****, turbos, bad grammar, etc.
So to sum up (someone fill in if I miss an important point, but feel free to quote or sticky this as a nice summary somewhere too!
)
1.) Must use upper mounts and parts (assembled in the correct order) for both the front and rears as these parts are not included with the Racelands.
2.) Use white lithium grease on all moving parts and contact points. This prevents the chronic squeaking problems that folks in this thread have reported. Its recommended NOT to use WD-40 as it attracts grit and sand. (Thx Sigh OH for the update: this comes in a spray can for $4 @ Advance)
3.) Use Anti-seize (available at any auto parts store) on the threading to prevent what again? (sorry 204 pages of posts makes the brain go mush!)
4.) Tighten the living hell out of every bolt in the suspension. These will also come loose over time from regular driving, causing things to squeak or thunk, so re-tightening is required every so often.
5.) Because of the weight of the front passenger and transmission (mostly this) the driver front strut should be slightly higher up than the passenger to keep the car level. By how much approximately should the difference be between the driver and passenger? Also does this apply to the driver rear as well?
6.) Running with only 1 perch (the adjustment wheel/nut only, locking one removed) is dangerous, but is the only way, seemingly, to get these lower than they were originally intended for.
7.) The bots for the rear struts are a bi!ch to remove and usually require a breaker bar which consists mostly of some form of artificial extension like a metal pipe.
8.) Using a spring compressor during the removal and installation is helpful, but not necessary. However, not using one could cause injury. Renting one is an option and most auto parts stores well do so for between $40-60 and return most, if not all, of your money upon return of it.
9.) Few couple people who have Auto-X'd these said they lasted for a short bit, but wouldn't recommend them for hard track-style use. However, most daily driving has proven these as fairly reliable.
10.) Customer service for warranty replacement of any damaged/broken sets has been phenomenal and most people have gotten replacements within a few days.
11.) Nearly all problems experienced with these have been due to installation errors
12.) There is apparently a special washer that needs to be added to the rear strut assembly before installation to prevent a rare occurrence where, when extremely lowered, your sway bar punctures the frame in the rear hatch/passenger compartment. (fact check for me? what is the washer that was mentioned, I forgot which post it was!)
13.) Installation time ranges from 2 hours (experienced folks) to 10 hours (for noobs). Adjustment is tedious and equally time consuming the first time around.
14.) Springs should be allowed at least a couple weeks time of regular driving before a MANDATORY alignment is performed.
15.) Lowering capabilities range from a max height of approximately stock height to approximately a 3" drop. Results will vary based on wheel size.
16.) Did I miss anything?
So to sum up (someone fill in if I miss an important point, but feel free to quote or sticky this as a nice summary somewhere too!
)1.) Must use upper mounts and parts (assembled in the correct order) for both the front and rears as these parts are not included with the Racelands.
2.) Use white lithium grease on all moving parts and contact points. This prevents the chronic squeaking problems that folks in this thread have reported. Its recommended NOT to use WD-40 as it attracts grit and sand. (Thx Sigh OH for the update: this comes in a spray can for $4 @ Advance)
3.) Use Anti-seize (available at any auto parts store) on the threading to prevent what again? (sorry 204 pages of posts makes the brain go mush!)
4.) Tighten the living hell out of every bolt in the suspension. These will also come loose over time from regular driving, causing things to squeak or thunk, so re-tightening is required every so often.
5.) Because of the weight of the front passenger and transmission (mostly this) the driver front strut should be slightly higher up than the passenger to keep the car level. By how much approximately should the difference be between the driver and passenger? Also does this apply to the driver rear as well?
6.) Running with only 1 perch (the adjustment wheel/nut only, locking one removed) is dangerous, but is the only way, seemingly, to get these lower than they were originally intended for.
7.) The bots for the rear struts are a bi!ch to remove and usually require a breaker bar which consists mostly of some form of artificial extension like a metal pipe.
8.) Using a spring compressor during the removal and installation is helpful, but not necessary. However, not using one could cause injury. Renting one is an option and most auto parts stores well do so for between $40-60 and return most, if not all, of your money upon return of it.
9.) Few couple people who have Auto-X'd these said they lasted for a short bit, but wouldn't recommend them for hard track-style use. However, most daily driving has proven these as fairly reliable.
10.) Customer service for warranty replacement of any damaged/broken sets has been phenomenal and most people have gotten replacements within a few days.
11.) Nearly all problems experienced with these have been due to installation errors
12.) There is apparently a special washer that needs to be added to the rear strut assembly before installation to prevent a rare occurrence where, when extremely lowered, your sway bar punctures the frame in the rear hatch/passenger compartment. (fact check for me? what is the washer that was mentioned, I forgot which post it was!)
13.) Installation time ranges from 2 hours (experienced folks) to 10 hours (for noobs). Adjustment is tedious and equally time consuming the first time around.
14.) Springs should be allowed at least a couple weeks time of regular driving before a MANDATORY alignment is performed.
15.) Lowering capabilities range from a max height of approximately stock height to approximately a 3" drop. Results will vary based on wheel size.
16.) Did I miss anything?
Last edited by djspectre; Apr 17, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
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SL Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 106
From: bay area, ca
. naw j/k. nice pick up. love my grids man. dont care how many people have them, lol. hopefully i can see your car around. still waiting to install my racelands though.
I seriously can't believe I actually read all TWO HUNDRED AND FOUR pages worth of posts in this thread including all the absurd thread jacking moments about Nikon cameras, headlight ****, turbos, bad grammar, etc.
So to sum up (someone fill in if I miss an important point, but feel free to quote or sticky this as a nice summary somewhere too! )
1.) Must use upper mounts and parts (assembled in the correct order) for both the front and rears as these parts are not included with the Racelands.
2.) Use white lithium grease (is this a spray or a paste you rub on?) on all moving parts and contact points. This prevents the chronic squeaking problems that folks in this thread have reported. Its recommended NOT to use WD-40 as it attracts grit and sand.
3.) Use Anti-seize (available at any auto parts store) on the threading to prevent what again? (sorry 204 pages of posts makes the brain go mush!)
4.) Tighten the living hell out of every bolt in the suspension. These will also come loose over time from regular driving, causing things to squeak or thunk, so re-tightening is required every so often.
5.) Because of the weight of the front passenger and transmission (mostly this) the driver front strut should be slightly higher up than the passenger to keep the car level. By how much approximately should the difference be between the driver and passenger? Also does this apply to the driver rear as well?
6.) Running with only 1 perch (the adjustment wheel/nut only, locking one removed) is dangerous, but is the only way, seemingly, to get these lower than they were originally intended for.
7.) The bots for the rear struts are a bi!ch to remove and usually require a breaker bar which consists mostly of some form of artificial extension like a metal pipe.
8.) Using a spring compressor during the removal and installation is helpful, but not necessary. However, not using one could cause injury. Renting one is an option and most auto parts stores well do so for between $40-60 and return most, if not all, of your money upon return of it.
9.) Few couple people who have Auto-X'd these said they lasted for a short bit, but wouldn't recommend them for hard track-style use. However, most daily driving has proven these as fairly reliable.
10.) Customer service for warranty replacement of any damaged/broken sets has been phenomenal and most people have gotten replacements within a few days.
11.) Nearly all problems experienced with these have been due to installation errors
12.) There is apparently a special washer that needs to be added to the rear strut assembly before installation to prevent a rare occurrence where, when extremely lowered, your sway bar punctures the frame in the rear hatch/passenger compartment. (fact check for me? what is the washer that was mentioned, I forgot which post it was!)
13.) Installation time ranges from 2 hours (experienced folks) to 10 hours (for noobs). Adjustment is tedious and equally time consuming the first time around.
14.) Springs should be allowed at least a couple weeks time of regular driving before a MANDATORY alignment is performed.
15.) Lowering capabilities range from a max height of approximately stock height to approximately a 3" drop. Results will vary based on wheel size.
16.) Did I miss anything?
So to sum up (someone fill in if I miss an important point, but feel free to quote or sticky this as a nice summary somewhere too!
)1.) Must use upper mounts and parts (assembled in the correct order) for both the front and rears as these parts are not included with the Racelands.
2.) Use white lithium grease (is this a spray or a paste you rub on?) on all moving parts and contact points. This prevents the chronic squeaking problems that folks in this thread have reported. Its recommended NOT to use WD-40 as it attracts grit and sand.
3.) Use Anti-seize (available at any auto parts store) on the threading to prevent what again? (sorry 204 pages of posts makes the brain go mush!)
4.) Tighten the living hell out of every bolt in the suspension. These will also come loose over time from regular driving, causing things to squeak or thunk, so re-tightening is required every so often.
5.) Because of the weight of the front passenger and transmission (mostly this) the driver front strut should be slightly higher up than the passenger to keep the car level. By how much approximately should the difference be between the driver and passenger? Also does this apply to the driver rear as well?
6.) Running with only 1 perch (the adjustment wheel/nut only, locking one removed) is dangerous, but is the only way, seemingly, to get these lower than they were originally intended for.
7.) The bots for the rear struts are a bi!ch to remove and usually require a breaker bar which consists mostly of some form of artificial extension like a metal pipe.
8.) Using a spring compressor during the removal and installation is helpful, but not necessary. However, not using one could cause injury. Renting one is an option and most auto parts stores well do so for between $40-60 and return most, if not all, of your money upon return of it.
9.) Few couple people who have Auto-X'd these said they lasted for a short bit, but wouldn't recommend them for hard track-style use. However, most daily driving has proven these as fairly reliable.
10.) Customer service for warranty replacement of any damaged/broken sets has been phenomenal and most people have gotten replacements within a few days.
11.) Nearly all problems experienced with these have been due to installation errors
12.) There is apparently a special washer that needs to be added to the rear strut assembly before installation to prevent a rare occurrence where, when extremely lowered, your sway bar punctures the frame in the rear hatch/passenger compartment. (fact check for me? what is the washer that was mentioned, I forgot which post it was!)
13.) Installation time ranges from 2 hours (experienced folks) to 10 hours (for noobs). Adjustment is tedious and equally time consuming the first time around.
14.) Springs should be allowed at least a couple weeks time of regular driving before a MANDATORY alignment is performed.
15.) Lowering capabilities range from a max height of approximately stock height to approximately a 3" drop. Results will vary based on wheel size.
16.) Did I miss anything?
can we update the OP with this info or make a sticky with it?
i guess youre buying a set now.
Senior Member
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 205
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Senior Member
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,004
Muahhhh got my rear bolts removed I didn't go for a super agressive lower but it looks real good... I will half to get a early alignment just beacuse I replaced a bent control arm so my toe is hideously out... So I don't need to eat tires up at all.... I'm on 19's soo I'm about half threads left in front... And rear has about 15 threads left... The rear can def go lower but playing it safe with my offset... I will post pics tomorrow or Monday
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,073
From: Sonoma, CA
I didn't even use any grease, and there's no squeaking or rubbing at all. Now I mean there's rubbing, but that's a different story.