I have searched but this has never been answered.

On the rear brake caliper, the piston needs to be pushed back in so you can install the new pads. Does our rear piston need to be turned as it's being pushed back in? I found this set


But with this set above, it looks like the discs that touch the piston twist as they are being pushed in. I don't want to screw up a caliper. (but this set i can use on other cars, so not wasting the money)

I also found this tool at Napa, someone else here was using and it doesn't twist the piston just pushes it straight back in.



Let me know what tool is good for our car as well as the piston info, thanks!

 

just use a 8 inch C clamp you can get at lowes or wal mart or something. really easy to fix. i actually did it 2 nights ago and worked like a charm

 

So then our pistons don't look like they twist, if a C-Clamp worked pushed it straight back into the caliper. Makes sense.

My other question is and I don't know if i need a new post, we'll see.. But, I've read about that you should open the bleeder screw on the caliper so that the brake fluid isn't forced back up into the abs module. Something about damage?

 

for new brake pads I don't think so. I think you just remove the old ones and install the new ones but I could be wrong. Hopefully someone else will confirm this for you.

JOE

 

The pistons must be compressed back in. [Ninja Edit]Were you talking about the pistons or the bleeders? I originally thought you were talking about pistons but if not nevermind. [/Ninja Edit]

To the OP, you will have to compress the piston. The set you linked can be rented from Autozone for a deposit (which you get back in full when you return the set). That set is for brakes like the rear calipers on my RX-7. To compress the piston you must screw it back in using those tools. Some brakes you simply compress. I haven't done the tC's brakes yet but I believe you just need the C-Clamp. Make sure to crack open the bleeder screw, then turn the C-Clamp until the piston is back in, then tighten the bleeder screw back up. Simple.

Edit: I guess you actually don't need to open the bleeder screw, nevermind.

 

i dont think you need to open up the bleeder screw because the piston is always being compressed again.

 

I guess I should stand corrected. I have always cracked the bleeder screw when I've done brakes but I checked with some of my friends and they don't. I guess it's just a silly habit I picked up. Anyway, to retract my bolded statement slightly no, you shouldn't need to open the bleeder. If, for some reason, you can't get the piston to compress back in then you could try cracking the bleeder as it will make it a bit easier. The downside to cracking the bleeder is you could potentially introduce air into the system.

 

^ very well put! i totally forgot about letting air in when you open up the bleeder. great catch

 

Yeah but from what I've heard is that the ABS module can be damaged if brake fluid is forced back into it, by compressing the piston. that by opening the bleeder screw it will allow the extra fluid (from piston being out) to exit out the screw instead of the pressure backing into the ABS module.

I know about air into the system, but I can always hook up a hose to a bottle of brake fluid. A lot cheaper than an ABS module being destroyed.

Now this is all from what i've heard.. that's why I'm asking.. what's the truth with the tC?

 

the abs module really isnt the thing that "would" be destroyed. the abs module is actually a wheel sensor for each wheel that communicates with the ECU. HOWEVER, there are also two or more hydraulic valves (not abs module, but controlled by ECU from readings from the ABS Module wheel speed senors) to relieve brake fluid pressure from the brake calipers. This means that when they relieve, the valves open along when you push the piston back in, not against, because remember, the valves RELIEVE brake pressure. the reason the valves relieve pressure is that ABS helps prevent the wheel from locking up=skidding. Once the wheel locks up from hard braking, well, braking then doesn't become all that effective.

the only thing you might have to worry about when pushing the caliper back in is if the fluid in the resevoir might spill out or what not, but it usually doesn't spill.

on a side note though, if u feel safer opening up the bleeder and just use a pressure bleeder to get the air out, that works too. just another 5 mins and maybe 5 bucks.

 

^^ yeah it had me worried about the hydraulic valves that are part of the ABS, that's what I meant, thanks for clearing that up

So then bleeding the system shouldn't be that big since I only opened it up slightly not flushing the brake fluid.

My other concern is being a couple years old and never been opened, the bleeder screws on the front being seized in there. Would penetrating oil be a good idea to loosen it up or don't mix that with a brake fluid bleeder?

and a pressure bleeder is better than just opening up the bleeder valve and pumping the brakes? haven't bled brakes in awhile, am trying to remember. Thanks

 

In searching around today I saw other people mention that about ABS equipped cars as well, although a mechanic friend of mine said he didn't think there would be an issue. I've never heard of the possible issue until today. I asked one of my other friends who is a Toyota Certified tech and he said there should not be a problem with just compressing it. He works at a dealership and they don't open the bleeders.

I checked alldata too and it doesn't list anything for the tC (maybe the info isn't up there yet since it's newer). I took a look at the Celica GT-S and an older Lexus (which had ABS) just to get a feel for what they say and both say the same thing:

 

i would only use wd40 to sorta "loosen up" the screws. other than that use a 6 sided socket instead of a 12 point so theres more surface area to grip the screw. wd40 should be okay, maybe even some penetrating oil because you are bleeding old fluid out anyways, and new brake fluid is entering.

a pressure bleeder just makes the task easier, instead of needing two people to bleed the brakes: one pumps the brake, one opens and closes the screw. with the pressure bleeder, you just hook up the hose to the bleeder screw and start squeezing the handle which makes a vacuum and thus sucking out fluid with air bubbles in it. MAKE SURE you keep checking the brake fluid resevoir in the engine bay because if you run out of fluid when you bleed, air is gonna flood the system.

you can buy a pressure bleeder from autozone or pepboys or kragen. OR you can use

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Speed_Bleeders

i think ack154 was the one who bought these. dont remember. i havent tried them but seems pretty cool. haha.

oh found it... https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...speed+bleeders

thats ack's thread on speed bleeders

 

Thanks for asking your friend! That helps a lot. I figure i will open the bleeder since it hasn't been opened since the factory, and i will want to change my fluid soon, might as well get a routine down! But I really appreciate all the info! now I am more informed about this!

 

WOW! I love those speedbleeders! Oh I WANT THAT Now that is what I'm talking about! If the check valve works well then it would be perfect!

And yeah thanks Chubbykai, about the 6pt 8mm for the bleeder screw. I will definitely check my tools to see what pt version i have. Thanks for the help too! I had the wrong idea about bleeding before all of this, now it's simply just let the fluid ooze out and stop it when there are no more bubbles. Simple concept. I had some bad examples from mechanics and poor results before, it's what kept me away from the brake fluid. Now I know and don't have to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes. and save some $$$ which lately, we all need to do!

 

haha its all about learning it yourself and doing it yourself! thats all the fun, and saving money is just a bonus haha. if you have any more questions just go ahead and PM me or email me. i think my email is in my profile...if not its just chubbykai@gmail.com. good luck!