S Techs and Koni Yellows Installed *PICS added*
Originally Posted by Lil_Deuce_tCoupe
Originally Posted by Amoxapine
When installing new springs, do you need to install new struts and shocks?
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...=asc&&start=20
In my experience with mods I learned its cheaper to do it right the first time. if you drop the car on stockers you may blow them or you may not. theres many factors that can predict this (ex road conditions, drivers habits).
^ indeed, and if you decide to do it all at first (aftermarket dampers and springs), in addition to avoiding the possibility of blowing them, you'll have the stockers to throw back in the car in the case you decide to sell the car.
worked out really well with my civic, i went the ground control/koni route, ended up wanting another car, and spent about an hour and a half swapping the suspension back to stock.
worked out really well with my civic, i went the ground control/koni route, ended up wanting another car, and spent about an hour and a half swapping the suspension back to stock.
where is the chepest place to get the koni yellows just for the fronts only??? i dont hae enough funds to get all four and i just need the fronts cuz i blew the struts already....i am on s-techs too by the way...
http://www.ltbmotorsports.com I purchased my set from there a while ago. At the time they were the best price. If i remember shipping was free also.
Sup Dark-nes how do you like the springs? I installed my a while ago. You should have done the work yourself. I have a page that tells you how to install yourself. If someone wanted to tell me how to make a sticky I would appreciate it. How many turns did you do? Sorry didn't want to read the whole 4 pages, been drinking.
check this out
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2339942/1
check this out
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2339942/1
Our cars look the exact sames. Sorry dude. Im nautica blue with the same paint on my tires. Copied your post, love them. I went with Eibach springs though way to high in the back. It looks like "Face down *** up", for those of you who are old enough to remember 2live crew.
lol@ 2 live crew. Cool great minds think a like. I left the clicks on stock settings. because i wanted to feel em out first. this spring im going to click to hardest. How do you adjust them once they are installed? Im also not a do it your selfer so I had a mech do the install.
You can reach the front if you remove the covers under the wipers, and lift the plug over the strut, easy access. The rears have to be removed, compressed and twisted. You did get the **** and instructions back from the shop didn't you. If not I can guide you through it, I mean I think I can, should still have the instructions. What ever you do, never tighten the struts to the tightest setting. Professional driver don't and nor should you. That setting is 400%more resistant than stock. I went with one turn which is 50% more resistance. Another person on this site went with 1.5 turns which is around 200%. I believe you should match the resistance with the % increase in spring rate, not an exact science just personal logic.
Do you want specific instruction on how to adjust the rears after you remove them? The fronts can be adjusted while still on the car.
The rears have to remove before you adjust.
Remove the rears for the car. Next compress the strut all the way in (push the piston to the bottom). Next, turn in a counter clock wise motion. Turn until it will not turn any more. This is stock setting. Turn clock wise to tighten the struts. 2 turns is max or 720 degrees.
The front struts have a **** that slips over a peg, the fronts need to be turned in the opposite direction the rears were in order to loosen or tighten. Clockwise to set at stock and counter clockwise to tighten. Once again 2 turns is max. The fronts can be reached as stated in one of my earlier posts, remove cover under wipers, next remove the plug covering the peg the **** attaches to.
The rears have to remove before you adjust.
Remove the rears for the car. Next compress the strut all the way in (push the piston to the bottom). Next, turn in a counter clock wise motion. Turn until it will not turn any more. This is stock setting. Turn clock wise to tighten the struts. 2 turns is max or 720 degrees.
The front struts have a **** that slips over a peg, the fronts need to be turned in the opposite direction the rears were in order to loosen or tighten. Clockwise to set at stock and counter clockwise to tighten. Once again 2 turns is max. The fronts can be reached as stated in one of my earlier posts, remove cover under wipers, next remove the plug covering the peg the **** attaches to.
Yeah, I had my front 2 full turns and it was WAY to tight. I had it on 1 turn and it felt pretty good, but a little bumpy going through construction and certain off ramps. I had them at 1.5 last week, which apperently was to tight cause I SHOOK THE BOLT LOOSE AND LOST IT on my right front! That's what that noise was, JamesD!
Anyway, I'm back to 0 now to compensate for not having a bolt in, but when I get a new one, I think I'll try 1.25 turns. When I get the rears, I'll just match them with the fronts and leave em be. I'm not going to bother taking the whole thing apart to adjust it a quarter turn!
Anyway, I'm back to 0 now to compensate for not having a bolt in, but when I get a new one, I think I'll try 1.25 turns. When I get the rears, I'll just match them with the fronts and leave em be. I'm not going to bother taking the whole thing apart to adjust it a quarter turn!
I lost the front right bolt also. I called Koni and told them their directions sucked, the instructions did not give a recomended tourqe and didn't recommend lock tight. They sent me new one express for free. I never used lock tight just torqued them down real tight and have not lost one for 10,000 miles.
As matter of fact there was not one word on the instruction sheet. Just pictures a 2 year old could draw.
As matter of fact there was not one word on the instruction sheet. Just pictures a 2 year old could draw.







