Hi when i bought my car it wasnt running. When i finally got it running the brakes werent working correctly. Basically what its doing it I have to pump the brakes to stop fully and it doesn't really brake that well when i do pump it so i have to start brakeing from far away.

I tried replacing the brake master cylinder with a remanufactured one from advanced auto and i bled the brake lines out but not really getting any results. Im out of ideas had anyone had this problem before or think the know what it is? I don't wanna take it to toyota yet because just diagnosing it will cost an arm and a leg.

A friend of mine told me it could be the brake booster but wouldn't that just make the brakes hard and not be able to press in at all? PLEASE HELP ME lol i need a car again.

 

.. you NEVER pump anti-lock brakes. ever.

 

did you bleed your system properly?

 

Most likely needed to completely and thoroughly bleed the lines. I would have tried that before replacing the master cylinder.

 

Actually, I have a very similar condition. Pedal is firm and high when the engine is off, goes almost to the floor as soon as the car is started if you keep your foot on it. Brakes work fine, just that the pedal is really low. Slightly spongy, can 'pump them up' a little, as the OP described (when stopped, not during braking - relax Trung, lol)
Checked all per the 'Problem Symptoms' table in the service manual for 'low or spongy pedal' = 1. Fluid leaks, 2. Air in system, 3. Piston seals worn or damaged, 4. Master cylinder faulty, 5. Booster push rod adjustment.
Have a power bleeder, thoroughly bled the entire system multiple times. No improvement. Found an almost new master cylinder and booster from a wrecked tC for short money (hopefully he didn't wreck because of bad brakes!), so I swapped that in. Bled another quart or two of fluid through it, no improvement.
Car has 105K on it, and this is the second set of pads and rotors. I put on the current set of drilled/slotted rotors at about 50K. I'm replacing the pads and rotors next weekend, mostly because the current set is rusting, looks like crap. Rotor and pad thickness are still good, just look like hell.
Don't expect this is going to do anything to affect the pedal issue, but we'll see. After that.... I don't know. I'm not looking forward to getting raped at the dealer either, but may not have much choice at this point. I can't figure it out.

 

The following is from the service manual for the tC, please try this and report back to us of what you found before you do more...

Quote from service manual "

1. INSPECT BRAKE BOOSTER ASSY

(a) Airtightness check.
(1) Start the engine and stop it after 1 or 2 minutes. Depress
the brake pedal several times slowly.
HINT:
If the pedal goes down farthest the 1st time, but gradually rises
after the 2nd or 3rd time, the booster is airtight.
If incorrect, inspect the vacuum check valve.
If the vacuum check valve is normal, replace the brake booster
assy.
(2) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running,
and stop the engine with the pedal depressed.
HINT:
If there is no change in the pedal reserve distance after holding
the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
If incorrect, inspect the vacuum check valve.
If the vacuum check valve is normal, replace the brake booster
assy.
(b) Operation check.
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times with the ignition
switch off and check that there is no change in
the pedal reserve distance.
(2) Depress the brake pedal and start the engine.
HINT:
If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.
If incorrect, inspect the vacuum check valve.
If the vacuum check valve is normal, replace the brake booster
assy.

2. INSPECT VACUUM CHECK VALVE ASSY

(a) Inspect vacuum check valve.
(1) Slide the clip and disconnect the vacuum hose.
(2) Remove the vacuum check valve.
(3) Check that there is ventilation from the booster to
engine, and no ventilation from the engine to the
booster.
HINT:

If any fault is found, replace the vacuum check valve. "

The Vacuum Check Valve Assembly is on the left side of the brake booster, connected to a rubber hose.

 

Thanks for all the responses I really need to get this fixed so i will be trying to fully bleed out the brakes first and diagnose it by what u guys said. I bled them once but i guess not good enough. Does anyone know if it needs a pressurized bleeding or can it be done in the driveway just the regular way?

 

Hope you get it fixed soon. If you find anything different out please let me know ASAP i need to get my car back on the road. Thanks

 

you should check if autozone or some place similar have a pump for rent. By "pump" I mean the syringe-like thing that pushes brake fluid up the brake lines(cant think of what its called). Air bubbles travel up so while you can do it the old fashion way the pump is more effective.

 

Alright thanks a lot Kyle I'll have to take a trip to autozone tomorrow going to have to drive with the e brake though lol