Sorry I tried for an hour using the search and could not find the answer to this question.

I ordered 19x8 +40 Konig wheels for the wifes 07 TC and the tires will be 235-35 now my question is. If I get the TRD springs is there anything else I will need in order to get the alignment back to factory spec. I want to make sure its not off at all so we can get as much life out of these tires as possable. She drives about 18,000 miles a year and I don't want to have to replace tires every year or less because the alignment is not perfect.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

well, first you'll have to cross your fingers that the wheels&tires will even fit without rubbing, that's pushing it really, really tight with that low of an offset on that wide of a rim and adding 20mm of tire, you're widening the overall width by a minimum of 2in not accounting for if the tire has a rim protector, or where the manufacturer measures the tires from, being either the treads themselves, or sidewall-to-sidewall. On the same note, lowering the car does not affect WHETHER OR NOT the tires will rub, but just makes it more prevalent that they will/do - for reference, you're moving it closer to the fender by an overall of 30.7mm and I moved mine by 35.7mm (18x8 +32 225's)and it rubbed on all 4 corners at the extreme limits of suspension compression, and when it was lowered on TRD springs&struts, it rubbed even more.

and to answer your question on alignment, wheels have nothing to do with it, alignment is adjusted at the suspension, so you could get your tires aligned with the wheels off theoretically.

you don't need anything else except a jack to get the car in the air, a few open ended wrenches, and a string and measuring tape to set your own alignment.

of course if you want a shop to do it, they would do the same thing, except with new-fangled computers and whatnot, but they won't need anything additional to get the job done. Also, for tread-life, make sure the toe is set to as close to 0 under the combined measurements all around, everything else isn't as important to be accurate for tread-life.

 

The one thing I was worried about is needing camber adjustment bolts or something along those lines. I have read on here people having 19x8 with a +40 offset and with a 215-35 they say they are not rubbing with the 2.5 inch S-tech drop. If they fender is not hitting the edge of the wheel with that amount of drop on hard dips then shouldnt the tire clear as long as its not sticking out past the edge of the lip of the wheel. I know there is a 20mm difference from the 215 to the 235 but thats only 10mm on the inside and 10mm on the outside. If I wanted to check for clearence going by the stock wheels and tires I could drop a string down from the fender lip and measure the distance to the stock tire right? if its more then the 30mm you talked about then it should be ok when we put the 19's on right?

 

you won't need any additional bolts or camber kit or anything like that, and truthfully, you probably won't even need an alignment because after I put my TRD set on, the alignment was actually more beneficial from being lowered, and the toe was my only concern as it was changed (the camber was more negative which is benefical) - you should get it checked somewhere before you have the work done, and if need be, PM me he specs and I can tell you if you even need an alignment or not to save treadwear

on the fitment issue, you'd have to do the math, the way it would be is you are moving the wheel 8mm closer to the outside with the offset difference, which is a constant one-sided movement, so that's 8mm closer to the fender so far

then you're adding an inch of wheel width, although the tires will be mounted on them, it's still wider, which does push it farther out. so that's 25.4mm(1in) divided by 2 since only half is getting closer to the fender, so that's a total of 20.7mm

then the tires are 20mm larger than stock, which 10mm of that would be closer to the fender, bringing the total to 30.7mm closer to the fender wall. You really can't measure it with the stock wheels, because the wheel offset is different, which would throw off the calculations, but it could give you a general idea.

also, please get it out of your head about people running with different levels of lowering, it does not affect tire rubbing, the suspension moves up and down regardless of how low the car is, and that up and down motion will NOT make the tire move horizontally closer to the fender to make it rub more, ever.

I rubbed on my tires and wheels, and that's a fact, someone else who doesn't rub might not have compressed the suspension to the point that the tire was up to the fender yet (it's possible if it's just nice city driving) and some people aren't aware of what rubber tire scraping on metal fender sounds like and not even notice.

as you said, someone was running the same wheel with a 215 tire, there's a HUGE HUGE difference between 215 and 235's - my suggestion would be to run 225's to make sure it's not going to cause problems, and with the additional 8mm of wheel offset clearance from what I was running would solve your rubbing problems, and also stretching a 215mm tire on a 203.2mm wheel (8in) is NOT a safe or smart idea, it can cause tires to blow out when impacted or at high speeds and can "wash out" under heavy cornering due to over-running the tread and literally folding the tire on the wheel.

 

I know lowering it will not change the fact the suspesion travles, but at stock hight with those tires its 3 inches from the fender so you would have 3 inches a travle before it would touch, if you were to lower the car 2 inches then it would only take 1 inch of sespension travle to touch. Its just like my dadge ram, at stock hight it would take 16 inches of travle for it to touch the ground, after the bags wnt on my ride hight was only 2 inches off the ground so with very little travle it would touch the ground lol

 

also, for the rear of the car, if you do measure it you need to measure it from the INSIDE of the rear fender, as the fender is bent all around the wheel well about a half an inch (about 13mm), which is significant since we are talking about millimeters here, if necessary, you could roll your fenders (look online for how to do it yourself or pay a shop to do it) to get you a little extra clearance in the rear, but it is always best to not have to make permanent modifications to the car to fix the problem of the wheel & tire not fitting the car.

 

Ya that much I know lol

Trust me I don't want to have to modify anything if I don't have to but I am in no way a stranger to making drastic mods to make something work or build something custom. I am just new to working with these small cars

 

here is my current project/daily driver

http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profi...rofileid=34193

and here is my ram I just got rid of

http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profi...rofileid=10054