I bought this car from my niece with 127,000 miles. It has the VVTi rattle, but unlike what I've read and researched about this issue, it's not just a dead cold start thing. Unless you restart the engine within about 20-25 minutes from when it was last running, you get the rattle. This concerns me and leads me to think that the problem is progressing to the point that I should actually do something. So, I've watched all the videos and read the various how-to's. I bought the parts ($561 all together, almost double what people were paying just 3-4 years ago), and the gear came in the unlocked position. I have done repairs that I would categorize as more complicated, but never to such an important part of the engine, so I am trying to line up all my ducks as best as I can before working under the valve cover this way. All of the info I have found is about Camrys and Rav4's, never about working on a Scion. Scion is not mentioned in the official Toyota TSB, and there are two part numbers for two different gears depending on your model. The dealer tells me I use the second gear, which is the less common one for a specific year range of Rav4, part no. 13050-0V011, and NOT the more common one ending in 40. I was hoping someone here that has done this gear swap on their Scion could confirm this for me? I thought that the internals of a 2AR-FE engine would be identical across the model range, but apparently not. Secondly, I'm looking for any additional tips and advice I can get before I get started in on this. I'm going to wait a week or two before I set aside a day to do this. Any help appreciated.

 

I won't be much help here, but my buddy had a really similar startup sound on his MS3 (that he acquired second hand) and he also thought it was the VVT. Replaced the whole system and it didn't make a difference. Ended up just being a PCV valve that was stuck and buzzing somehow at startup. It baffled both of us. It probably is the VVT in this case, but it's worth checking out and much cheaper and easier to replace.

 

How did your vvt replacement go?

 

It went well. The only part that I would describe as difficult is reinstalling the chain tensioner through the inspection hole in the timing cover. It’s difficult no lie. In the end I used a method that involved using sticky grease to hold the bolts in the bolt holes and a strong magnet tool to hold it in place. It’s still tricky. The rest went very smoothly just make sure that the gear comes unlocked! Open it at the dealer and confirm before you pay. The noise went away almost completely. What cold start noise remains is the timing chain itself in my opinion. Until it gets coated in oil it makes a little noise too I think.

 

Frankc29. Thanks for replying. I can see what you mean. I Just finally got the pcv hose back on. Oh boy.

I understand what you mean about the grease.

Not sure about how you used the magnet. I have taken the cover plate off. You got me a bit scared.

That cover plate is right behind the body/frame. If you could expound on your magnet use i would be grateful. Im also looking at how if i drop the tensioner mounting bolts they could go down behind the chain cover.

 

Yes, this is the dangerous part of the operation. You must be careful not to lose anything down the timing cover, because if you can't recover the item, the whole operation becomes much more laborious sine you now need to remove the timing cover. Twice I dropped the tensioner gasket down, but it go caught up on the cover and I ws able to get it back with a magnet. Do not rush this. I used the magnet tool you see in just about any auto parts store. It's a strong magnet on the end of a telescoping rod, similar to a radio antenna. I placed the tensioner on that, with the bolts greasy and sticky so they stay in the holes, and place that in place while I attempt to screw in the bolts with my free hand. It's not easy. I had to bend the telescoping rod to make an L shape. One problem I faced is that the chain guide gets in the way. I managed to shove it aside and put some sideways pressure on it to where it would hold out of the way, but it just falls back occasionally and blocks access again. This might not make sense until you are deep into this process. Dont forget to reset the chain tensioner to it's most open position and hold it there with a pin in the hole. There are a few videos and write ups out there with more information, but nothing prevents this step from being a hard one unless you get lucky.

 

Trying to put pin in the Tensioner. Using a paper clip.. i cant seem to find a 2nd hole under the thing that looks like a bike chain link.

 

If I remember right you have to hold a spring loaded gear back while pushing on the rod to retract it and then the bike chain link thing moves to uncover the hole. It takes some fiddling.

 

Welp. I got the tensioner out of the hole. Today i started to take the vvt gear off the top. I removed the Timing chain guide. The Teflon cover material is gone. There are grooves ground into the metal of the top Guide. SO Now im wondering how much slack is there on this 249k miles timing chain,,,, And what do the other guides look like. Where has this material gone?

I can take the cover off and change the guides, the chain , the tensioner etc.. It will be easier putting on the tensioner since i dont have to put it in that 3x3" hole.

I thought maybe i should pull the oil pan off too and check the pick up tube etc.

Its a rabbit hole, its not my car. Im not getting paid ... cept maybe in cookies. 249k miles.... What should i do? Im still not sure i even know where the oil leak is coming from. Thats what started this business.

What would you do?

 

With that many miles and the condition of the top guide I would assume the other two guides are bad too. My guess is that after that vvti gear has been slapping things around so long the guides have started to go. I would go the full mile and remove the timing cover and replace all the guides. Maybe even the chain as well since you’ve gone this far. The hours you put into this will go up considerably but it simplifies things somewhat with regard to the chain tensioner. Now you’ll have proper access to everything as well as being able to confirm that the chain is absolutely on the proper gear teeth all around.

 

Frank , I am replacing the chain and taking off the cover as you said.

Does ANYONE have torque specs for a whole timing chain replacement job? I would need specs for cover vvt gear, and all the cover bolts and the engine mount.

 

If you can get the Haynes manual for the 2009-2017 Toyota Camry, the engine is the same. The sources you find online for torque specs can be shaky sometimes.

 

and i pulled the oil pan. Pulled the pick up tube. Its clogged with some kind of greenish/ teal filter/sponge synthetic material.. The engine was starving of oil. All the holes in the screen had some in them.
Idk how the stuff got in there. Neither does the owner.

 

Anyone out there?

I put the timing chain and tensioner and new vvt on. According to the TSB.

I lined up the timing marks on the sprocket and the crank with the marks on the chain. Verified that i purchased the correct chain.

How many chain revolutions before the timing marks line up again.. Im lost here. I turned the chain 7 full revolutions, still not aligned with timing marks again. THEY WERE aligned when i started and the chain hasnt jumped that i have noticed during
the turning.

Any help?

 

Turned it about 10 times / revolutions. Finally all linedd up again. Now working on getting the pully bolt torqued down... no luck so far...

 

Wrap up:
I replaced the PCV, Timing Chain, VVT, Valve cover gasket, Pick up tube in the oil pan, And Spark plugs. Also Chain tensioner and all guides. All gastkets new on timing cover and inside the valve cover.

Cost $538. In parts and oil and silicone.

Runs like a top.