Anyone know of some 6X9's that will fit in our doors? I want to get just a little more bass out of these. The factories are the suck, and I dont think I will install a sub cause I'm old as h___ and loud bass gives me a headache..... I just want it to sound a little less raspy and a little more deep. Thanks guys

 

generally you wont find "BASSier" speakers because most of the aftermarket products are designed assuming you will have a sub in your system so they dont really bother with the low end. stock speakers are usually the BASSiest ones because they need to fill all the sound spectrum. Also, just replacing the speakers alone is like buying brand new nice clothing but wearing them without showering lol. The stock stereo's unchangeable equalizer has been specifically set to make the best sound possible out of the crappy speakers. So if you just buy the speakers you will only get 60%-70% sound quality out of them which most of the time will be better than stock but idk if it's worth it

The car audio install place I go to was super impressed with the stock system and actually told me that they will go out of business if more cars will be coming out with systems like this one


Just get a sub. You can ALWAYS turn it down

 

60-70% is better than what I got imo, and I at least have the Alpine unit, sure no true equilizer, but better sounding than the base HU. Ive changed just the speakers in many cars I have owned, with nearly a night and day diffrence in sound quality, with and without a aftermarket HU. I realise this isent the "optimal" way to do it, but I have always been happy with the results.
Besides not wanting killerbase/constant headaches, and even the ability to turn it down, I think I am a little old to be rocking a sub, no offense. I had a sub in every car I owned from 16 till 23, I just feel like now that my insurance is cheap, a sub is below my age range. I would feel like the old guy who the kids only talk to, cause I could potentially buy them beer.......lol

I know there is a brand, I think the name is powerbass or something like that, and they make a 6X9 specificly designed for bass. I just dont know if it would fit, as Crutchfield's rep was very certain that no aftermarket 6X9 would fit our cars. Not any of the brands they carried anyway. He said there wasent enough space for the bigger magnets. Which is why I made this thread, he scared me out of ordering before I got some more info.

Im just hoping someone has changed them out with 6X9's (I know a few people have swapped to 6 1/2 in the spot, cant find anyone who did a 6X9 and has posted about it.) and can tell me what brand they used, that way I can try and find some with similar dimensions, if not the exact same speakers they used.

 

Old guy??? you are 28! Put a sub in the car and quit being difficult you old fart! lol Wish I was still 28!!

 

LOL! They say you are as old as you feel, and I feel ancient.... Moding this car is the only thing keeping me from dust : )

I guess there is one more tiny issue I havent addressed yet as to why I am being so difficult about the sub.... Currently, the wife boss has a Suzuki GrandVitara, which is the cargo car, but we will be trading it in as soon as the FR-S is availible. Leaving my car as the "cargo car"...... subs are not cargo capacity friendly. (yes, the wife is gonna be the sports car driver) [insert joke here]

But furthermore, I cannot justify spending $800+ on a sub/stealthbox/amp/cables that will be turned off/on low, 99% of the time. $100 for a decent pair of 6X9's, that will be used 100% of the time seems like a much better idea/deal to me.

 

changing out a HU is a pain in the ___ in this one i know. cuz there is too much wiring/crossovers to deal with.

Find out why the speakers wouldnt fit. if its depth then that can be helped with a spacer.

The car audio install place i go to will fit ANY speaker haha in any car for $50

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R300-12-300-Watt-12-Powered-Subwoofer-/230640085811?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b3386b33This is what sits in mine, plus 50 bucks for a R.F. wiring kit. I can move into the back seat if I need to and have plenty of cargo space. Sadly my Tc makes grocery runs too. 250 bucks and you have a nice sounding sub. They sell it with a 10" sub too. The amp has all the adjustment you need to keep from giving yourself a headache there "grandpa". Just a suggestion, good bass does not cost 800+dollars. More bass in the doors will just cause more rattles, then you need sound matting, etc..
Found these 6x9 subwoofers searching ebay, got bored at work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6x9-CDT-Audio-CL-69SUBCF-Carbon-Fiber-Subwoofer-PAIR-/110707429318?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item19c6ad4fc6Hope that helps. Best thing I can tell you is call up Crutchfield and ask them for a 6x9 that fits.

 

Now both these posts are info I can use! Thanks guys.

 

Im running 6x9's in the front you just needa modify the brackets or make new ones

 

Any chance you took pics of what you did Errol? I understand the concept, haven't ever had to do this to anycar before though. Also, if your adding more behind the speaker, how do the door panels fit back on? Are yours loose or just as tight as factory? Thanks

 

Not much pics but you can kinda get the idea

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=68

Theres a lot of space at the back so there's clearance its a tight fit when we pushed the speaker towards the oem bracket it kept popping out but we managed to get it in snuggly tight. sorry no pics of the speaker on the bracket..

 

An option you may not have considered that is time consuming, but won't require new speakers, is to sound deaden your doors. I don't mean simply covering every square inch of space with dynamat either, though that will work.

Dynamat is a CLD tile and its effectiveness is diminished after about 25% coverage, but people still seem to think they need 300% coverage. After applying something like dynamat to the inner and outer skin of the door, the large holes need to be closed off, and you then add a layer of closed cell foam and then mass loaded vinyl to fully seal out the sound from the backside. This will separate the backwave of your factory speaker from the frontwave and stop the cancelling out of the bass that is already there. You can also add closed cell foam, moisture treated open cell acustic foam, or a dynamat "dynaxoarb" pad behind the woofer to help with the speakers response as well.

Sound deadening is labor intensive, but its a 1 time project when done right and helps you hear what's already there.

Just replacing the factory woofer won't be very effective unless you replace the amp because the factory 6x9s are 2 ohm and most auto speakers are 4 ohm and that will cut your power output in half with regards to the factory amp that is under the driver's seat.

 

I had no idea about they dynamat diminishing effects. This is good info because I have been shying away from dynamat thinking I had to tear everything apart to get good results.

 

Well even dynamat disseminates the disinformation on this by showing pictures of their product applied so that you'd be "safe from the cia spy sattelites" or tinfoil hat type stuff. Some more info about sound deadening techniques can be found here http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi. I ran into this site on the TC1 ICE part of this site and have had its info corroborated in other places as well.

 

Very cool. Thanks a ton for all this info man. I will be hitting this hard and heavy after I get the TWM s. shifter in.

 

No need to spend $800+

You can get a $50 boss amp specificly for a sub that can do 200w RMS 4ohm at 95dba sensitivity which is great.

8awg wiring kit for $30 on ebay or just about anywhere.

12" Sub off ebay for $50 or whereever.

1.8cu box for 12" on crutchfield for $60 shipped or make your own.

All in all around $200. This setup is very good for the mere $200.

 

I appreciate the info guys, but I have had cheap systems, and I have had expensive. To me, there is a huge difference.

I had a sub/amp once that cost me about $100 with wires. It hit like a truck but it wasent clean bass, and caused constant headaches. This was before I thought of having a power switch so most of the time, I drove with the radio off.

I have also had a $800 fosgate sub/amp combo (in the same vehicle, with the same head unit, so that wasent the change) that not only hit like a truck, but was very clean sounding and rarley caused me the need to eat a half a bottle of Advil.

I am still pretty positive I am not going to get a sub, but if I do, I'm gonna do it right.

That OEM Audio + company seems like exactly what I am looking for.