DIY: Stopping rattle in drivers door.
01-04-2011, 04:17 PM
#21
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
Hey guys, I started to get the rattle in the door about a week ago, and decided to look into it.
The panel that is rattling is the one that has the window switches on it.
Time: ~1 minute
Tools required: 1 piece of paper, hands
-Pop the panel up and then slide it toward the rear of the car to remove it.
-Take a piece of paper and tear it to be a little bit shorter than the length of the panel between the handle and cloth arm rest.
-fold the paper length wise twice so it is 4 layers thick
-tear the paper again to be about an inch wide.
-place the paper on the edge of the door panel and crease it over the lip towards the outside of the door
-pop the window panel back onto the door
-you may have to finagle with the paper to keep it in place so its not visible when the panel is on
After this turn up the volume and smile cause the rattle is gone
The panel that is rattling is the one that has the window switches on it.
Time: ~1 minute
Tools required: 1 piece of paper, hands
-Pop the panel up and then slide it toward the rear of the car to remove it.
-Take a piece of paper and tear it to be a little bit shorter than the length of the panel between the handle and cloth arm rest.
-fold the paper length wise twice so it is 4 layers thick
-tear the paper again to be about an inch wide.
-place the paper on the edge of the door panel and crease it over the lip towards the outside of the door
-pop the window panel back onto the door
-you may have to finagle with the paper to keep it in place so its not visible when the panel is on
After this turn up the volume and smile cause the rattle is gone
I wonder though if there's a more long lasting solution, and a more waterproof solution than paper. I know 3M makes many sturdy double-sided tapes in different thicknesses, I wonder if they would be any better.
03-07-2011, 05:41 PM
#22
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 588
I'll probably try and do this today or tomorrow. anybody else find an alternative solution in the meantime?
03-18-2011, 03:36 AM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 15
10-26-2011, 10:21 AM
#34
the issue is really a design flaw in the audio system...all of the high bass is going into the door speakers...mainly the lowest woofer
the only "real fix" is to change the audio system so that the bass is redistributed throughout the car and not just on the doors....with that said, the OEM Audio+ Reference 400CF does this, once this system is in...no more rattle (based on experience)
the only "real fix" is to change the audio system so that the bass is redistributed throughout the car and not just on the doors....with that said, the OEM Audio+ Reference 400CF does this, once this system is in...no more rattle (based on experience)
10-26-2011, 01:05 PM
#35
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: in the dog house….
Posts: 61
We have true 8" in the doors and when we first fired the system the door panel was alive to say the least. with only a hand full of clips and a couple of screws no were near the 8" speaker its a vibrating panel that is going to happen.
It got better when we removed the the panel and drilled the rest of the holes in the 8" grill but a lot of sound deadener in the doors and the back of the panel helped a lot.
We have over 200 sq of deadener in the car and still have not completed the roof as of yet.
Saying the speakers being changed stopped the vibration is very questionable
to say the least, that says that the speaker before it was playing x range and the new one is now playing y range and no other changes made.
The car from the factory sounded………………. and lacked up front bass and highs over 8khz. adding highs is easy but the bass is very hard and people have been installing subs and raising crossover points for years to get the bass sound but coming from the rear of the car for years.
Like some one said you can dab the lower conners of the doors as a quick fix to help hold the panel down.
We are running our 8" at 65hz up to 280 ish the 4" are 200is up to there upper range and the tweets are about 6khz up and only with the 8" set below 50 does the 8 and the door rattle like hell because of rear waves in the door and air space required for the 8's
It got better when we removed the the panel and drilled the rest of the holes in the 8" grill but a lot of sound deadener in the doors and the back of the panel helped a lot.
We have over 200 sq of deadener in the car and still have not completed the roof as of yet.
Saying the speakers being changed stopped the vibration is very questionable
to say the least, that says that the speaker before it was playing x range and the new one is now playing y range and no other changes made.
The car from the factory sounded………………. and lacked up front bass and highs over 8khz. adding highs is easy but the bass is very hard and people have been installing subs and raising crossover points for years to get the bass sound but coming from the rear of the car for years.
Like some one said you can dab the lower conners of the doors as a quick fix to help hold the panel down.
We are running our 8" at 65hz up to 280 ish the 4" are 200is up to there upper range and the tweets are about 6khz up and only with the 8" set below 50 does the 8 and the door rattle like hell because of rear waves in the door and air space required for the 8's
Last edited by noisy1eh; 10-26-2011 at 01:15 PM.
11-14-2011, 09:40 AM
#40
It is the power window switch housing.. Put your hand on it with the music cranked, it should go away. The housing just pops out. A bead of non corrosive silicone around the edge will stop it. Best solution, throw a 12" sub in the trunk so you can turn down the bass on the head unit. This will significantly reduce the vibration on the dooor switches. Then let the sub drown out the rattles. Adding one mediocre sub and amp made a huge difference in sound quality.