Thanks.

 

Speaking of which, Paul, I'm not hatin on you, and I appreciate the leg work you did to get this part made, but there is a much easier and less risky way to remove the melt rivits than drilling them out. I think we should also forward this info to redline, incase someone who does not use this forum gets these. When you drill, you run the risk of going all the way through the door panel, but even if you dont and drill perfectly, you leave less availible plastic behind for a screw to dig into, which could cause you to poke the screw through the panel.

If you use a razor blade and cut the top portion of the rivit off, (basiclly lay the razor flat, and push it through the top of the rivit from the side) the panel will pop right off, and leave plenty of platic for the screws to chew into without as much risk of going through.

I did not figure this out untill I was on door number 2. I had to use about 2 small washers per screw on door number one (3 washers on some areas) to keep my screws from poking through the panel. On door 2, I did not need a single washer.

 

^^ I appreciate the help. I am going to do that when it is time to install in stead of drill. Thanks!

 

Actually drilling a rivet is the way ur suppose to do it... That's how u replace the 6x9 speakers

Anyways, there are always multiple was to do things and different things work for different ppl, but drilling and rivet removal is the "ideal" way

 

Druidiron: Finding an easier/better way to do something isn't hating. It's progress.

Okay, a little behind the scenes look at the development of the door panel inserts... I did a fair amount of homework before installing the door panel inserts.

There are a million ways to remove the plastic welds. The most professional instructions said to drill out plastic welds like what's on our car. The most common way to remove the welds was by simply pulling the material off and popping the top of the weld off. I tried both and ultimately ended up using a 3rd way (not listed in the instructions). Just popping the weld is way too unpredictable. Drilling works, but I'm not good enough with a drill to consistently drill the hole the way I want. Much like Druidiron, I found my own way. I used a wire cutter and cut the tips off. Worked like a charm.

However, when I wrote up the instructions, I stuck with the "ideal" method since drilling the hole is the more professional way when done correctly.

 

I know its progress, but you know how people miss read things sometimes. I know I do it...ALOT..lol
Anyway, you know I am an aircraft mechanic, so not to be conceited or anything; but I got mad skillz with a drill gun. The little plastic housing that the welds slide into is hollow before the weld is added. So, if you got mad skillz with a drill gun, more than likely, you are going to remove the entire weld, like I did on at least 70% of them. So, when I went to add the screw, there was literally nothing for the screw to grab onto. I had to make a trip to AutoZone and get some plastic bond, dig it in the hole with a toothpick, and then let it dry a few hours so that the screws would even grip. Then I had to be super careful not to over tighten/torque them so the bonding material didn’t break. I estimate that the first door took me well over 2 hours because I had to go back and fix things. The second door took me less than 20 minutes if you don’t figure in the time you have to wait for the glue to dry and just look at actual labor done.
I just think that if you change the directions, it would save some folks time and headaches.

Justin, you are absolutely right, but in this case I used the wrong word… A rivet you would want to drill out as it is metal. I just couldn’t think of a better name for the plastic welds when I was posting.

 

Love the track photos! Every time I see your car I fall in love with that colour and wish I had have got it!

 

how many miles on ur EBC pads as of now?

 

Looking back on it, I would have been wise to pay attention to my odometer when I installed the pads. Unfortunately, I was not so wise...

I think I have about 1000 miles on them now.

 

Thanks AZtCRS...whatever your login is, for showing me this place and bringing a decent camera! As you can see from my pictures, my camera isn't exactly great for night shots.

All, I apologize for the grainy pictures. They will likely be replaced by better ones once the guy with the funky login posts them! For now, here are some I took with my phone.






And it took me a bit to figure out why this last picture looked familiar...



Then I figured it out!

 

me and Josh should have joined you and put our white tC2s on the sides LOL

 

Needless to say im angry i didnt make it last night :/ cars look awesome and it was such a nice night last night too! Anyway I spoke to aaron thinkin about maybe getting together saturday or sunday if your available?

 

Sunday doesn't really work for me. I work Sun-Wed and very long hours those days. Sat might work so long as it's not too late at night.

And hopefully I can get some better pictures up soon. Aaron definitely took better pictures. Now I just have to get him to share!

 

Yea they still look good, yea hey anythings better than my blackberry pics :/ haha yea he said hed be uploading them soon hopefully, cool well ill touch base with aaron and you tomoro by noon and see whatsup, I should be fine to meet up I have a tattoo appt around 11:30am shudnt be more than a couple hours so hopefully we can find a spot and get some more pics!

 

Oh and those leds on the heads look hella sharp! Any word from the CF fabricator?

 

are the pads broken in and not make that chalk on the board sound?

 

Pads are broken in. They are still noisier than stock, but you can't hear them unless the windows are down.

Does that answer your question?

 

so u/ppl outside can hear the EAR CUTTING noise?

 

Funny, I was thinking the EXACT same thing! Hahaha.

Why? Because racecar!

 

well mine have 220 miles on them and whenever i slow down to take a turn OUCH IT'S LIKE IT CUTS My EAR DRUM IN HALF