I'm sick of misinformation so here is a tiny bit of good information for you all to help everyone out. I received this information from a formula drift team, so it's solid. I had asked him questions whenever I was stuck on my build and he's was very kind to provide answers.

1.) The stock 2AR-FE cylinder walls are more than sufficient. There is no need to sleeve this block, and in fact is not recommended as it has been done and problems have been had with sleeves dropping.

2.) .25 over has been tested with VERY high power with stock cylinder walls on another 2AR, 1000hp. On mine I have .50 over and stock cylinder walls, and is fine too.

3.) The stock OEM Head gasket is good for VERY high power.

4.) Bigger actual studs are recommended, some arp 625+ 1/2" -13 threaded into block. Have the block threads retapped and drill the head for the larger diameter studs. These studs will run you $100/per stud @ $1,000 total, but are going to be worth it. You will also have to source your own nuts and washers from arp as well. They are stocking items.

5.) When you bore the cylinder out you will notice that the top of the cylinder has a small amount of aluminum at the top of the bore. The sleeve/ steel doesn't go to the deck, even on a new block.

6.) Stock OEM main caps are good up to 750hp

7.) Can use 2.7L crank from the 1AR-FE and it is good to 850hp. For a custom billet crank hit up sonny bryant