tC2 Service Manual
Will do, thanks. And I don't have anything in particular I've set my mind to. I have a few things on my To Do List, and the manual lets me research things before buying the parts only to realize I'd rather just pay someone to do it for me. 
Short-term list:
- Change orange dash lights to white/blue. (Off the table for now since all the LEDs are integrated into the various circuit cards)
- Install a second reverse light
- Install amp/sub (haven't decided what just yet)
Long-term list:
- Intake: I'll have to see power gains before I invest though
- Exhaust: Same as above. I think the car sounds just fine as it is.
- Header: Haven't decided whether it's worth it yet.
- Lightweight Flywheel: Same as the header
- Forced induction: TBD

Short-term list:
- Change orange dash lights to white/blue. (Off the table for now since all the LEDs are integrated into the various circuit cards)
- Install a second reverse light
- Install amp/sub (haven't decided what just yet)
Long-term list:
- Intake: I'll have to see power gains before I invest though
- Exhaust: Same as above. I think the car sounds just fine as it is.
- Header: Haven't decided whether it's worth it yet.
- Lightweight Flywheel: Same as the header
- Forced induction: TBD
The dash lights are not that hard. Removing the bezels in the 2011 are even easier than in the previous models. After removing the bezels, one screw at the top of the gauge cluster can be removed and the unit can be taken out. After that it is a breeze. If I remember when I pulled mine out, there were 43 leds to change out.
If you need help with sub install, I can make you a small write up.
And for the performance parts, it more or less a waiting game for most of those parts.
I do have a bumper removal write up for installation of figure grills for the 2011 though.
If you need help with sub install, I can make you a small write up.
And for the performance parts, it more or less a waiting game for most of those parts.
I do have a bumper removal write up for installation of figure grills for the 2011 though.
Keep your eyes on this website...here is where to get the OEM shop manuals...so, when they become available, it will be here at a good cost (not dealer rate)...
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_s...&class%5F2=SCI
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_s...&class%5F2=SCI
I would like to see this as well. The flywheel, however, IMO, is already plenty light, not sure why you would want lighter, the Revs hang as it is.
Superpickel
You're absolutely right about the bezel. It's actually how I messed up (and now fixed) my tach. And while there probably are about 43 LEDs total, I just want to swap the orange backlight ones. I'm guessing 20-25 including the center console and Trac Control button. My thing with replacing the LEDs is the soldering. I'm NOT good at it and I run out of patience.
And if you could give me some pointers on the amp & sub, I'd appreciate it. I've replaced head units and speakers, run wires for exterior/emergency lighting, etc. But I've never installed an amp or sub. I've always had friends who did it for me.
Questions on the amp and sub:
- Is it worth getting a self-sustained sub with built in amp?
- If a separate amp is better (which I'm guessing is the case), where did you put it?
- I'm concerned about space, so I'll probably just get one 12" sub. Suggestions on space saving options/techniques?
2tCornot2tC
Thanks for the info.
2011crimson
As I said, I'm not sold on ANY mods yet. If they aren't just right, intakes can LOWER usable power. You'll notice K&N shows their power readings starting at ~3000rpm. It's because most cars have less power under 3000rpm. And my big concern with a lighter flywheel is losing traction off the line.
As for the hanging revs, I'm guessing that has more to do with the ECU than the flywheel. I've only installed lighter flywheels on bikes, but I never noticed MORE hang. Certainly revs jump faster, but even if they do hang, I don't see an issue. My concern has never really been to get the revs DOWN.
And a lighter flywheel should make dropping revs during a shift easier (ie - accelerating hard in 3rd and going straight to 6th for cruising) and put less stress on the transmission, giving you a bigger margin of error when matching speed, rpm and gear during a shift. But, hanging revs hasn't really been top of my concern list, so I'm just guessing at what it seems should happen.
You're absolutely right about the bezel. It's actually how I messed up (and now fixed) my tach. And while there probably are about 43 LEDs total, I just want to swap the orange backlight ones. I'm guessing 20-25 including the center console and Trac Control button. My thing with replacing the LEDs is the soldering. I'm NOT good at it and I run out of patience.
And if you could give me some pointers on the amp & sub, I'd appreciate it. I've replaced head units and speakers, run wires for exterior/emergency lighting, etc. But I've never installed an amp or sub. I've always had friends who did it for me.
- Is it worth getting a self-sustained sub with built in amp?
- If a separate amp is better (which I'm guessing is the case), where did you put it?
- I'm concerned about space, so I'll probably just get one 12" sub. Suggestions on space saving options/techniques?
2tCornot2tC
Thanks for the info.
2011crimson
As I said, I'm not sold on ANY mods yet. If they aren't just right, intakes can LOWER usable power. You'll notice K&N shows their power readings starting at ~3000rpm. It's because most cars have less power under 3000rpm. And my big concern with a lighter flywheel is losing traction off the line.
As for the hanging revs, I'm guessing that has more to do with the ECU than the flywheel. I've only installed lighter flywheels on bikes, but I never noticed MORE hang. Certainly revs jump faster, but even if they do hang, I don't see an issue. My concern has never really been to get the revs DOWN.
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