READ THIS: Rear Camber is off due to lowering springs
i'm dropped on coils (maybe 2-3in) i've gotten a total of two alignments (i had to do some product testing and swapped my suspension during the time, if not i'd still be on one alignment)
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
30 sounds about right for the front bolts
nope never used shims. my rear camber is just like that, no adjustments. i told the alignment shop how i wanted it and that's (what i posted above) the specs I got
nope never used shims. my rear camber is just like that, no adjustments. i told the alignment shop how i wanted it and that's (what i posted above) the specs I got
i'm dropped on coils (maybe 2-3in) i've gotten a total of two alignments (i had to do some product testing and swapped my suspension during the time, if not i'd still be on one alignment)
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
P.S. Running Continental DWS tires.
Within the next month we should have a QUALITY AMERICAN MADE 4130 Chromoly Rear Upper Control Arm, also called a camber arm. This will allow you to adjust rear camber on your TC Finally. We just finished some testing, and feel comfortable saying the scheduled release date will be within a month.
-Solidworks CAD designed product
-4130 Chromoly steel construction
-HIGHEST Grade Rod ends and sphericals(no cheap chinese garbage that will break in a few months and leave your car dangerous to drive)
LOOK FOR THEM HERE AND Tbperformanceproducts.com
-Solidworks CAD designed product
-4130 Chromoly steel construction
-HIGHEST Grade Rod ends and sphericals(no cheap chinese garbage that will break in a few months and leave your car dangerous to drive)
LOOK FOR THEM HERE AND Tbperformanceproducts.com
Within the next month we should have a QUALITY AMERICAN MADE 4130 Chromoly Rear Upper Control Arm, also called a camber arm. This will allow you to adjust rear camber on your TC Finally. We just finished some testing, and feel comfortable saying the scheduled release date will be within a month.
-Solidworks CAD designed product
-4130 Chromoly steel construction
-HIGHEST Grade Rod ends and sphericals(no cheap chinese garbage that will break in a few months and leave your car dangerous to drive)
LOOK FOR THEM HERE AND Tbperformanceproducts.com
-Solidworks CAD designed product
-4130 Chromoly steel construction
-HIGHEST Grade Rod ends and sphericals(no cheap chinese garbage that will break in a few months and leave your car dangerous to drive)
LOOK FOR THEM HERE AND Tbperformanceproducts.com
**EDIT-- Im a putz and didn't read the title... 2G... sorry!**
Alright Ladies and Gentlemen! The time is here...Here are the pictures of our prototype...This beauty is crafted from 1/4" thick 4130 chromoly plate with a high strength chromoly ptfe lined rod end(slightly different than the one pictured here) that attaches to a powder coated steel adjuster sleeve allowing for easy adjustment of camber. The spherical bushing shown here will be replaced on the production version by a .120 DOM bushing housing with high quality energy suspension bushings. Each one weighs in at a scant 2lbs making it half the weight of stock! Bar none this is the best RUCA money can buy and when its released we will do 200 dollars shipped for the first month and after that we will put the price at 250 dollars shipped. Expect Production to start within a month.
PLEASE BEAR IN MIND...THESE ARE PROTOTYPES. Revisions will follow. Expect Production on these to start within a month :D

PLEASE BEAR IN MIND...THESE ARE PROTOTYPES. Revisions will follow. Expect Production on these to start within a month :D

Technically yes, should work, but it is not very elagent, and is not adjustable in the feild. (track day?) I've heard they also can break or come out of allignment. Not 100% sure on that, only heard stories.
i'm dropped on coils (maybe 2-3in) i've gotten a total of two alignments (i had to do some product testing and swapped my suspension during the time, if not i'd still be on one alignment)
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
in both cases i've made sure they 0'd everything out as much as possible. Currently my pass caster is a little off compared to the driverside. both rears are cambered approx -2.3 or -2.5. front is 0 because i have camber bolts. toe is 0 all around
i'm still on 1 set of tires (I got them brand new around the time i dropped the car because I also bought new wheels approx 1 month after the drop). I've racked up about 27k miles with this setup and my threads still look good.
I'm running Falken PT722 if that means anything. and i rotate every 5k
How often are u rotating ur tires? I'm at the alignment shop my rear camber is like urs -2.3-(-2.5) in the rear I told him to zero it out the front camber with bolts and and zero out all the toe. So hopefully it will help my wear. But ya u said u had 27,000 miles on ur tires I was wondering how often u were rotating ur tires.
Also are the 27,000 miles city or interstate
Thanks
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