2006 Scion Xa P0335 OBD-II Trouble Code: Crankshaft Position Sensor "A"
Hi,
I have a 2006 Scion Xa with about 184,000. About 2 months ago i started getting a P0335 from the ecm. The car would stall out shifting from drive to park. It would also stall about half the time if was stopped and slipped the car into neutral.
So, I changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the bottom of the motor behind the pully. I put in a Dorman 907-953 and it never seated all the way in. The car pretty much would stall every time I would stop. So, I tried a more expensive one (Delphi ss10254). It ran better but still stalled every time I would change gears. Then, I ordered one from Toyota, and now the car is back to where it was when I originally got the code.
I shined a light into the hole and everything i see in there is still pretty shiny with a slight yellow hue. No sludge that I can see. I also checked the harness and the plug. Everything is pretty clean and undamaged all the way to the top of the motor. It's two wires with a wrapped ground, whereas, the ground stops before the connector. Then, just the main two wires hook to the sensor.
When I checked the voltage, one wire showed as a ground, and the positive side only read 0.15 volts.
I know the sensor is doing something, but not sure what to look at next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I have a 2006 Scion Xa with about 184,000. About 2 months ago i started getting a P0335 from the ecm. The car would stall out shifting from drive to park. It would also stall about half the time if was stopped and slipped the car into neutral.
So, I changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the bottom of the motor behind the pully. I put in a Dorman 907-953 and it never seated all the way in. The car pretty much would stall every time I would stop. So, I tried a more expensive one (Delphi ss10254). It ran better but still stalled every time I would change gears. Then, I ordered one from Toyota, and now the car is back to where it was when I originally got the code.
I shined a light into the hole and everything i see in there is still pretty shiny with a slight yellow hue. No sludge that I can see. I also checked the harness and the plug. Everything is pretty clean and undamaged all the way to the top of the motor. It's two wires with a wrapped ground, whereas, the ground stops before the connector. Then, just the main two wires hook to the sensor.
When I checked the voltage, one wire showed as a ground, and the positive side only read 0.15 volts.
I know the sensor is doing something, but not sure what to look at next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi and welcome!
This DTC code is "Scion xA P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction"
There's more to this circuit than just sensor, which is fine 99.9999% of time.
Most of time, it's either connector or wires going to ECM is bad.
Or reluctor-wheel is loose or damaged and isn't triggering sensor properly.
Follow test-procedure in manual to determine exact where problem is. If you have oscilloscope, it's even easier, a 5-minute fix by just looking at the waveforms. There's minimum peak-to-peak voltage that's needed, otherwise ECM will miss a tooth.
Start with measuring resistance:
- impedance of sensor itself
- resistance of harness wires end-to-end
- resistance of each harness wire to each other and to braided shield. There might be crack in insulation somewhere and tiny strand of shield may be shorting it out. Only way to detect this is by measuring.
This DTC code is "Scion xA P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction"
There's more to this circuit than just sensor, which is fine 99.9999% of time.
Most of time, it's either connector or wires going to ECM is bad.
Or reluctor-wheel is loose or damaged and isn't triggering sensor properly.
Follow test-procedure in manual to determine exact where problem is. If you have oscilloscope, it's even easier, a 5-minute fix by just looking at the waveforms. There's minimum peak-to-peak voltage that's needed, otherwise ECM will miss a tooth.
Start with measuring resistance:
- impedance of sensor itself
- resistance of harness wires end-to-end
- resistance of each harness wire to each other and to braided shield. There might be crack in insulation somewhere and tiny strand of shield may be shorting it out. Only way to detect this is by measuring.
Last edited by DannoXYZ; Jun 24, 2022 at 01:45 PM.
Hi,
I just had a couple questions.
Would this work okay as an oscilloscope?
--(Handheld Digital Oscilloscope with 200Khz Analog Bandwidth & 2.5Msa/s Real-time Sampling Rate for Auto Repair) https://a.co/d/7SF9OB1
Also, when checking the resistance of the harness, do you mean to disconnect if from the ECM and check there?
Here's what I came up with measuring resistance:
- impedance of sensor itself
OL - very high (Over Limit?)(meter did not read anything)
- resistance of harness wires end-to-end
OL - Between the White and Orange wires (Disconnected from the sensor)
- resistance of each harness wire to each other to braided shield.
0.4 ohm on the White wire to braded ground.
OL on the Orange wire
Let me know if there is a different way to do it.
Thanks again!
I just had a couple questions.
Would this work okay as an oscilloscope?
--(Handheld Digital Oscilloscope with 200Khz Analog Bandwidth & 2.5Msa/s Real-time Sampling Rate for Auto Repair) https://a.co/d/7SF9OB1
Also, when checking the resistance of the harness, do you mean to disconnect if from the ECM and check there?
Here's what I came up with measuring resistance:
- impedance of sensor itself
OL - very high (Over Limit?)(meter did not read anything)
- resistance of harness wires end-to-end
OL - Between the White and Orange wires (Disconnected from the sensor)
- resistance of each harness wire to each other to braided shield.
0.4 ohm on the White wire to braded ground.
OL on the Orange wire
Let me know if there is a different way to do it.
Thanks again!
Last edited by Gdavis2nd; Jul 22, 2022 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Add more information
Hi all,
I did end up getting this problem narrowed down to interference from another system. It ended up being being a problem with the dealer added cruse control "Rostra 250-1755".
One theory is that the Rostra 250-1755 can't handle the digital tail lights from Walmart "Pilot IL-7440". Shortly after installing them, my cruse control stopped working. That, or it was just a coincidence, and the cruse control unit simply failed.
Anyways, after failure, with the key on and engine not runing, whenever you push the "ON" button, at the end of the cruse control button bar, the engine would crank. It only engages the starter for about a second, but it would start the car if it was already warmed up.
I was telling my dad about it while the engine was idling and accidentally pushed the cruse on button, the starter engaged, and it immediately shut the engine off.
I don't know why the cruise control would have anything to do with cranking the engine, but when I disconnected the wire harness that connects to the cruse control box (under the hood), the engine immediately started idling normally between shifts. Also, the P0335 never came back after clearing the ECM. So, now I'm looking for a junkyard replacement board for the Rostra 250-1755 to see if that fixes it. It's that, or it's a wiring harness problem. I hope this info helps someone else.
~Gdavis2nd
I did end up getting this problem narrowed down to interference from another system. It ended up being being a problem with the dealer added cruse control "Rostra 250-1755".
One theory is that the Rostra 250-1755 can't handle the digital tail lights from Walmart "Pilot IL-7440". Shortly after installing them, my cruse control stopped working. That, or it was just a coincidence, and the cruse control unit simply failed.
Anyways, after failure, with the key on and engine not runing, whenever you push the "ON" button, at the end of the cruse control button bar, the engine would crank. It only engages the starter for about a second, but it would start the car if it was already warmed up.
I was telling my dad about it while the engine was idling and accidentally pushed the cruse on button, the starter engaged, and it immediately shut the engine off.
I don't know why the cruise control would have anything to do with cranking the engine, but when I disconnected the wire harness that connects to the cruse control box (under the hood), the engine immediately started idling normally between shifts. Also, the P0335 never came back after clearing the ECM. So, now I'm looking for a junkyard replacement board for the Rostra 250-1755 to see if that fixes it. It's that, or it's a wiring harness problem. I hope this info helps someone else.
~Gdavis2nd
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