I am pretty sure he meant that the engine swap was a necessity.... as in his was blown...

Chris K.

 

oooooooh, my bad.

 

Yeah. The necessity was the engine swap. While I had everything torn apart I was looking into a gearing modification too but that enhancement will have to wait for now.

 

Ok, got the trans mount in, dealer typed in wrong PN and sent me another xA fuel hose instead of a Yaris part.......... So hopefully correct part will arrive by tomorrow and we'll see from there.

 

**UPDATE**

Got fuel hose from dealer, realized that I needed to get a Yaris retention clip for the fuelhose to fuel rail junction... Luckily I was able to get one from the junkyard ... Put it all together and fired it up. The car ran fine, no hiccups yet...

 

Update, just because...

Swap completed in late September of 2010.

Car is still running. Drove it Boston to Orlando and back in December of 2010, been driving it daily ever since. Engine still running fine. And yes, I stay on top of checking the oil!

 

The biggest reason is that turning 3K RPM at 60 mph is a pain in the a$$. Fuel consumption on these could go waaaaay down if you could either

A) replace 4th w/ 5th and find a gear with a ratio about 0.67 (guessing)

B) add a 6th gear as an overdrive

It's also a little less wear on the engine to run lower RPMs at higher speeds. That's why most vehicles have an overdrive. Engine life and fuel consumption.

 

How'd the yaris trans work for ur xA? I ask b/c im looking into doing the same trans swap for my boosted xA. Also putting LSD in it for the drag strip. Any advise???

 

Didn't end up using Yaris trans. Stuck with xA trans due to mounts not being the same.

Yaris engine still going. Car is about to hit 210,000. Yaris engine went in at 10,000 with 143,000 on the car. So Yaris engine is just about 77,000 currently.

 

Curious, I'm doing a swap on an xA today....can you separate the engine from the transmission in the bay and lift the engine out, or do I need to drop the engine and transmission as one unit out of the bottom?

 

How did you end up doing it? I would expect that installing/removing the engine/trans as a unit would be rather difficult. I think it would have to go at a severe angle from the top while through the bottom would need complete removal of the K member and everything with it.
I didn't have a lift. I took the engine out through the top and put the replacement in through the top with the trans still in place. I loosened the K member a lot to get enough room to mate the two. To anyone who loosens the K member, be careful! The steering wheel can become free to turn and break the clock spring. I forget the details because it has been years. I am about to loosen the K member to replace the transmission. At least my clock spring is already broken this time :/