GoldCo

In the (ever so frustrating) process of trying to get the transaxle out to replace the clutch, I seem to have broken a wire for the O2 sensor right at the connector.
I know at least old Fords you can take these apart and repin. Does this one come apart also, and if so, how?





Bonus points for any additional insight about how I can get the axle shafts separated from the hub assembly.
I've soaked in PB Blaster, used a MAP torch, and beat with sledge hammer.
First against the old spindle nut (mushroomed) and then a 2x4 (splintered). They aren't budging.

Thanks in advance.


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mrrcom

according to the manual the 1st sensor is an "H3" connector, part # 90980-10868. I found a plug with pins here they also seem to sell a pigtail you could hack in half if you didn't have a crimper. Sensor 2 is an H7 and its part # is 90980-11028 and it looks like connectors and pins are available.

So the axle is completely free from everything else besides the spindle? have you taken the two out?... Maybe you cant get at the lower ball joint nut with the axle in?... Id say take the spindle and axle out and try and have them pressed apart. its not a press fit and something is wrong with the two. After the heating and stuff you might have to replace the wheel bearing. and unfortunately that is a pain in the ___ too.

Birsan

@mrrcom, Hi, That car of yours looks like is falling apart. How one can can check on what day of the week the car was made? Some statistics shows that cars made with parts produced after the week-end like on Mondays have some quality issues. The production is needed constant maintenance and calibration. On early car production it is found many small mistake that can cause even car road accidents.

My next work on my car is to replace the ball joint ($19 each side with free shipping). Then wheel bearing replacement - front (this come set left and right with hubs for about $105 with free shipping).
Here the yesterday Monster Snow only leave about 3" (inches) of snow. Not too bad. It is safe to drive with Scion xB 2004 (to show off!!!).
My real problem is to find to replace the short bolts.


Those are short bolts for my Aluminum wheel.

This is how they made the head of the bolts. Can be same model as Hondas'?

This measures are in millimeters. Please let me know where to find like 2.5 " (inches long bolts) ?

MileHightC

@Birsan What compelling reason would you have to need to replace the axle studs, which is what those look like. You can find axle studs in about any diameter and length you want but you'll need to know the size of the 'toothed' section, which is what gets pressed into the hub.

Typically the only reasons you'd ever need to replace an axle stud would be you broke or stripped one, you want to run spacers on your wheels and they don't leave enough length to securely fasten your lug nuts or you're racing and the sanctioning body requires you to have 'x' amount of wheel studs protruding through an open-ended lug nut.

And replacing front wheel bearings is a bit of an undertaking but if you're pressing wheel studs into hubs you should have access to the press you're going to need.

Birsan

@MileHightC, Hi, I am not trying to go out from my place because I am getting boring. Those bolts needs replacement because I have aftermarket Aluminum wheels. Those are one inch in diameter larger than Scion (Toyota) XB 2004 sold in US. The aluminum needs longer bolts, than the steal metal material.
In the Summer of 2020, I had a driving noise. Then I replace the engine oil from Mobil 1 full synthetic, to AMSoil 5W-30 full synthetic. The noise get lower. Then, in December 2020 I get 4 brand new tires. The noise gets much lower. After getting the car at about 35 Miles/ Hour, the front noise rise up. What is left is to replace the bearings, and to see later if there is a noise improvement. Please let me know how one can find the source of the car noise? What the professional do to find a noise problem? How far they can go? It is there a limit? Thank you.



Those aluminum wheels are not original sold with this Scion xB 2004 (or I may be wrong).

MileHightC

Again, why are you looking to replace your wheels studs? I've got aftermarket aluminum wheels that are a full 2" larger in diameter than stock Scion steel wheels and some people might even have wheels that are 3" or 4" larger in diameter than stock steel wheels and no one has had to change wheel studs. Unless you've got some kind of funky wheels that have an unusually thick hub section, which I highly doubt, there is no need to change wheel studs.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say if you changed the brand of oil you were using and it reduced the noise and then you changed tires and it reduced the noise even more you've got two completely separate and unrelated noises. If I had to guess, based upon the noise increasing as you speed up, you're getting bearing noise. These cars are notorious for wheel bearings starting to go bad and making noise. There are a number of ways you can check wheels bearings and you can probably find a few decent videos on YouTube...jacking the car up and shaking the wheel top and bottom as side to side could indicate ball joint or tie rod issues, spinning the wheel to see if it makes noise, etc.

Noises are difficult to troubleshoot and professional mechanics might so far as to use stethoscopes or mechanic's microphones. They'll go as far as you are willing to pay I imagine.

One other thing to check, muffler bearings...those things go bad all the time and can be a huge pain to pinpoint but are a cheap and easy fix.

2stroked

The OP's car is not falling apart. And what day a car was built on has absolutely nothing to do with catching an electrical connector during disassembly and pulling a wire out. I should also add that although many years ago that may have been an issue, modern assembly processes using the Toyota Production System principle of Poka Yoke (Mistake Proof / Fail Safe) have effectively eliminated that problem.

2stroked

Could also be low on Blinker Fluid. And if the tires are filled with analog air instead of digital, all bets are off.

GoldCo

Thanks for the link, that looks like it should do the trick. When you say "they", you mean Walmart also sells the pigtail? I wouldn't have thought to look there, thanks.

The shafts are pulled free from the transaxle, but not from under the car, as I can't get the shafts free from the hub assembly. So I guess I will need to disconnect everything and pull them out with the knuckles attached. If that's the case, I won't be trying to press them apart, I"ll just put them back in. They weren't giving me any problems before, and the heat was just applied to the driver side and only on the outboard area with the splines so I believe the bearing should be just fine. They don't look particularly "rusted" so who knows why they're not coming apart.

mrrcom

Yeah I guess they as in the manufacturer "Ballenger Motorsports" this is the pigtail. I think Walmart's website can have 3rd party sellers. It was just a link that popped up and I referred to them as they lol.

And it's both sides that are stuck? wild... anyways yeah ya just gotta get it done and worry about them later I know how that is.

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MileHightC

Back to the OP, I'm pretty OCD when it comes to wiring and that connector looks like it de-pins just like any other connector. It seems you could de-pin it and put a new terminal on that wire provided you have enough length. That way you wouldn't need to get a new connector and pigtail and have to worry about connecting/soldering four wires instead of just redoing one of them. Only issue I see is you'd need the correct terminal, a crimping tool and enough slack in that wire to be able to strip the end to crimp the new terminal on.

mrrcom

I was thinking about soldering the wires and stuff when I was linking those plugs. I've read that the wire resistance is semi critical.
But after I made that pass through harness for the ECU, I soldered into both sensors and all that the extra wire and solder joints didn't really mess with the O2 sensors.
w

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