Ground Wire Hookup Points
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 171
From: Tucson, AZ
Leave the factory negative wire. If you pull it off there is a fuseable link in the ground, you need that connected. Tap these in as well as the factory ones.
Grounding the engine is not nearly as important as amplifiers. Hence why these grounding kits even exist. On the xA there is 2 ground wires. One goes somewhere under the engine (I didn't bother looking) and the short one that goes to the body. That's your 2 spots, not enough in my opion. Seeing as it is 8 gauge from the factory it does have some resistance. Good wire will have less. It's far from rocket science. Basically look at it this way. Your engine is gounded in 1 spot, it's probably a good spot but the block alone does not conduct electricity as well as a wire. Copper conducts far greater than an aluminum or steel engine block. The wires are a good way to go, just don't get all let down if it doesn't snap your head back, your car is silently thanking you.
Grounding the engine is not nearly as important as amplifiers. Hence why these grounding kits even exist. On the xA there is 2 ground wires. One goes somewhere under the engine (I didn't bother looking) and the short one that goes to the body. That's your 2 spots, not enough in my opion. Seeing as it is 8 gauge from the factory it does have some resistance. Good wire will have less. It's far from rocket science. Basically look at it this way. Your engine is gounded in 1 spot, it's probably a good spot but the block alone does not conduct electricity as well as a wire. Copper conducts far greater than an aluminum or steel engine block. The wires are a good way to go, just don't get all let down if it doesn't snap your head back, your car is silently thanking you.
Senior Member
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,654
From: Florida
guys, i have a tc and i bought ground wires like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7986795592 ,
I wanted to kno if its the same hookup points? the manual that came with the wires were so crappy. it doesnt even say ne thing. plus, am i supposed to disconnect the wire thats on the negative of the battery and places the new ground wires instead? I tried putting that clamp over the wire thats already on the negative but it wont fit!?? what do i do????
thank u!
I wanted to kno if its the same hookup points? the manual that came with the wires were so crappy. it doesnt even say ne thing. plus, am i supposed to disconnect the wire thats on the negative of the battery and places the new ground wires instead? I tried putting that clamp over the wire thats already on the negative but it wont fit!?? what do i do????
thank u!
Senior Member
SL Member
Team N.V.S.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13,706
From: Sacramento, CA / Nor*Cal
Originally Posted by EExA
Leave the factory negative wire. If you pull it off there is a fuseable link in the ground, you need that connected. Tap these in as well as the factory ones.
Grounding the engine is not nearly as important as amplifiers. Hence why these grounding kits even exist. On the xA there is 2 ground wires. One goes somewhere under the engine (I didn't bother looking) and the short one that goes to the body. That's your 2 spots, not enough in my opion. Seeing as it is 8 gauge from the factory it does have some resistance. Good wire will have less. It's far from rocket science. Basically look at it this way. Your engine is gounded in 1 spot, it's probably a good spot but the block alone does not conduct electricity as well as a wire. Copper conducts far greater than an aluminum or steel engine block. The wires are a good way to go, just don't get all let down if it doesn't snap your head back, your car is silently thanking you.
Grounding the engine is not nearly as important as amplifiers. Hence why these grounding kits even exist. On the xA there is 2 ground wires. One goes somewhere under the engine (I didn't bother looking) and the short one that goes to the body. That's your 2 spots, not enough in my opion. Seeing as it is 8 gauge from the factory it does have some resistance. Good wire will have less. It's far from rocket science. Basically look at it this way. Your engine is gounded in 1 spot, it's probably a good spot but the block alone does not conduct electricity as well as a wire. Copper conducts far greater than an aluminum or steel engine block. The wires are a good way to go, just don't get all let down if it doesn't snap your head back, your car is silently thanking you.
i removed both stock grounds and upgraded to 4ga for them and used 8ga for the additional ground wires and my car has not been adversely affected at all.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 171
From: Tucson, AZ
So what's in the big electrical taped square thing on the ground wire that runs down to the motor? I didn't bother cutting it open, I figured it works why remove it. It's not near any heat and has no reason to be wrapped in plastic so I figured it was a link.
You replaced the wire with the plastic thing on it,that's perfectly fine. I thought he was asking about just disconneecting it and leaving it that way.
You replaced the wire with the plastic thing on it,that's perfectly fine. I thought he was asking about just disconneecting it and leaving it that way.
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