No Compression
#1
No Compression
Help please, I recently purchased a 2006 automatic not running. I'm stumped. With the valve cover off and plugs out, pistons turning, cams turning, cam timing marks correct, drained oil but no metal in oil or the filter. Checked the valve clearances expecting bent valves but they are within specs. No water leaking out anywhere. But, no compression on any cylinder. Don't even bounce the needle, and yes I have checked my gauge.
#2
Did you manually open the throttle plate? (probably did)
Do you have a method to put air pressure into the cylinder via the spark plug hole? Is there a lot of leaking noise? Valves or piston rings?
Do you have a method to put air pressure into the cylinder via the spark plug hole? Is there a lot of leaking noise? Valves or piston rings?
#3
1NZ-FE No Compression all 4 cylinders..
This seems to be the place to enter my issue... got a 06 Scion xB which broke a serpentine belt... while replacing this belt and adjusting the alternator, the VVT-i (solenoid) got damaged (bent) and eventually started to loose oil all over the engine compartment (left side of engine). Realized the issue and replaced the VVT-i solenoid but engine would not start.? The engine does not crank but seems to be free spinning... just a winding sound, like a drill, but nothing seems to be catching, no cranking, no STARTING? Ended up changing all the timing components thinking something was wrong with the timing since the VVT-i solenoid got damaged, btw less than 100k on this car, actual 86k plus... so low miles, Sunday driver for mom n dad... changed the water pump and the spark plugs also while I was in there ( behind timing cover)... after all that, attempts to start the car result in the same sound or issue, seems to have made no difference. Thought the old chain may have jumped a tooth and possibly damaged, so changed all the timing components. No dice, car still won't start and still sounds like it's free spinning. One point to note, did a compression test and there is 0 on all 4 cylinders? HELP... what could cause this SYMPTOM? Free spinning on attempts to start the car? Should I check the crankshaft position sensor? The intake cam sprocket (VVT-i gear)? Timing was set accordingly, all marks lined up as required, so why no compression? Read a ton of threads and watched a ton of videos, nothing eludes to what this issue may be.... also isn't the 1NZ-FE a non interference engine? If so I shouldn't worry about bent valves, correct? Please any help would be greatly appreciated, car has been down for a month already trying to figure this one out.
THANKS in advance for your input.
_______
THANKS in advance for your input.
_______
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-07-2020 at 09:53 AM.
#4
Maybe a dumb question, but I can't tell from your original post. Is the crankshaft spinning? The reason I ask is that the sound you hear could be your starter spinning, but not engaging the flywheel.
#5
point to note... i read in a thread that there is a "reluctor wheel / ring" on the crankshaft that can come free from it's "spot weld" on the crankshaft? Could this be another possibility, if so how can I confirm this ... should I remove the timing cover (again) and see if it's free of the crankshaft, as it sits outside the engine block right behind the timing chain sprocket? Please advise.
Last edited by MrRanks; 01-07-2020 at 05:48 PM.
#6
Hmmm. If you have no compression, and you did everything you said, the list of possibilities is getting much shorter. Since your crank is turning and the pistons are indeed going up and down, the only way you'd have zero compression is if the valves were not closing fully, I kind of doubt it's the cam position sensor because that's just a sensor. Are the valves moving? I think a leak down test is just going to confirm you have some massive leaks. Do you have access to a camera you could snake down into a cylinder or two?
#7
Thanks again 2stroked... so what would i be looking for with a camera down the cylinder ports (spark plug holes) ? Actual piston movement has been confirmed with the "straws" ... please explain further what should I be looking for... Thanks.
#9
Ok 2stroked, makes sense, I tried to look down the spark holes and could see the top of the pistons, they seem pretty "clean"... but of course my view was limited to the center of the hole... well... I think i am gonna bite the bullet and take the car to a shop... all your input has been most greatly appreciated. Im still leaning on the hope that this engine is non interference and the valves hopefully are fine but all my symptoms are pointing in that direction. THANKS again.
Does anyone else have any input concerning this no compression issue on a supposedly non interference engine ? Giving this a last effort for a DIY fix... THANKS.
Does anyone else have any input concerning this no compression issue on a supposedly non interference engine ? Giving this a last effort for a DIY fix... THANKS.
Last edited by MrRanks; 01-09-2020 at 03:38 PM.
#10
Does the compression tester look something like this ??
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ece/273352_0_0
Did you get a strong fuel smell when doing the testing??
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ece/273352_0_0
Did you get a strong fuel smell when doing the testing??
#11
Thanks for the response.... Well, my compression tester is similar, model is a Pittsburgh... I have actually realized that my test was in error, cylinder one was done ok with piston at TDC but the other three cylinders I tested, I did not moved their cylinders to TDC... Oh well living and learning as a diy enthusiasts... short story, since then I thought the timing may not have been set correctly, so I tore it back down and redid the timing set up... this time noting my cam lobes on cylinder one being up... didn't do that the last time.... restrung the chain with cam points where they should be, also crankshaft ... Thought it would start after all that... no dice! I am stumped... I seem to be a bit over my head now since I can't seem to get this car to crank, and start... still seems to be free spinning... now I seem to have a whirl after whirl sound versus at first just a whine... steady whine... no change in tone... I even bought a camera to look down the spark plug holes as suggested and they were amazingly clean... 86k miles... they looked brand new... no apparent gouges or scratches, they were all fine... I am still leaning on this being a non interference engine.... so I redid timing as said and it still won't start... still sounds like a compression issue but I have no idea what to do next other than take it to a shop... and pray it doesn't cost me the price of a used one... saw a 2015 for 4900 recently... lol. Thanks for the input RichBinAZ.
#12
Thanks for the response.... Well, my compression tester is similar, model is a Pittsburgh... I have actually realized that my test was in error, cylinder one was done ok with piston at TDC but the other three cylinders I tested, I did not moved their cylinders to TDC... Oh well living and learning as a diy enthusiasts... short story, since then I thought the timing may not have been set correctly, so I tore it back down and redid the timing set up... this time noting my cam lobes on cylinder one being up... didn't do that the last time.... restrung the chain with cam points where they should be, also crankshaft ... Thought it would start after all that... no dice! I am stumped... I seem to be a bit over my head now since I can't seem to get this car to crank, and start... still seems to be free spinning... now I seem to have a whirl after whirl sound versus at first just a whine... steady whine... no change in tone... I even bought a camera to look down the spark plug holes as suggested and they were amazingly clean... 86k miles... they looked brand new... no apparent gouges or scratches, they were all fine... I am still leaning on this being a non interference engine.... so I redid timing as said and it still won't start... still sounds like a compression issue but I have no idea what to do next other than take it to a shop... and pray it doesn't cost me the price of a used one... saw a 2015 for 4900 recently... lol. Thanks for the input RichBinAZ.
As for the 2nd gen xB's, I've driven both and much prefer the 1st gen cars. And if you want to sell yours, PM me. I might be interested.
#13
Thanks all... well, this car is heading to FL, ... ran out of time to correct this issue... My brother will complete the job in FL, probably by taking it to a shop. I hope I can find out what it was and later post it to the forum. Oh well, thanks all.
#14
Probably too late now, but you may have been doing a different sort of compression test - more like a leak down test??
In this video I'm doing a compression test on my Bonneville (bike) Principle is the same, there is just no way you can use that first gauge on the xB, has to be the long hose version
Also, if you pull the Fuel Injection fuse, you don't get the strong fuel smell when cranking. It cuts off the fuel injectors.
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In this video I'm doing a compression test on my Bonneville (bike) Principle is the same, there is just no way you can use that first gauge on the xB, has to be the long hose version
Also, if you pull the Fuel Injection fuse, you don't get the strong fuel smell when cranking. It cuts off the fuel injectors.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-18-2020 at 07:56 PM.
#16
Help please, I recently purchased a 2006 automatic not running. I'm stumped. With the valve cover off and plugs out, pistons turning, cams turning, cam timing marks correct, drained oil but no metal in oil or the filter. Checked the valve clearances expecting bent valves but they are within specs. No water leaking out anywhere. But, no compression on any cylinder. Don't even bounce the needle, and yes I have checked my gauge.
If I were you I would take your phone and record the cam phasers turning if this is a VVT direct injection engine if the spring is bad you'll see the center part turn while the phaser stays still even if it does it and a split of a second on that video you just got to watch it and slow down the time there's a spring in there and whenever the spring messes up it won't move the camshaft properly the whole time so the timing can't be read properly by the cam sensors check the crankshaft sprocket make sure that it is fitted properly and not moved I've seen them dig in and twist about half an inch before so keep a lookout for that but if it's VVT watch that cam phaser phaser
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