i have the ever famous vsc chk eng and trac off lights on on my dash. they came on when i was running the 1/4 ( best time 16.91 @ 81) few runs after best i missed 4th and hit 2nd my rpms sky rocketed and it was like i slammed on the brakes... ever since then my fuel mileage is worse than a v8 and it idles @ 500 rpm skipping and acting erratic. most people have told it would probably turn out to be a bent valve and recently someone told me it could be my fuel injector. i had and obd scanner hooked up and it said misfire on cylinder 4... i've changed to coil pack and spark plugs... don't want to take my top end apart for no reason... i went to swap the injector but found i needed to remove valve cover, u know to see if that would change the misfire to another cylinder. can anyone help me out! suggestions please... any reply is much appreciated

 

wow...yeah that hurts...that happened to me once...but it was on my integra GSR...i was on third shifting to fourth, but i accidentally shifted to second.... ...so just like you said...it felt like i stomped on the brakes....when i got home i noticed a little bit of a knocking sound...but didnt mind it...and a few weeks later my engine gave up...i was driving with it one day and heard HUGE clanking sound...so we checked it out and my valves were all messed up...and my pistons and rods were also messed up...we had to replace the block...and had to replace the pistons, rods, and valve springs(ITR replacements )...so i think it would be good to pull apart your motor...and check for bent valves...(which i am pretty sure it happened)and check everything else also...let me know what happens....hope this helps..

 

As soon as you dumped it into 2nd from 4th you should've known engine problems internally were inevitable, haha.

I'm 99.9% certain it has nothing to do with your ignition, and everything to do with your rods or something internally. A friend of mine did the same also, and "spun a rod bearing amongst other things" according to the toyota tech.

If you don't have any warrenty left (not sure if they'd cover that anyway) take it to a mom and pops place that will do it for you and offer you a guarantee on their work. Could be kind-of cheap or very costly.

 

yeah it was the same with me too....i spun a bearing...

 

wow, well i am no expert, but with my little knowledge of engines there could be a small list of things that are wrong.

I would def. check the internals of the engine. Don't risk doing more damage.

Good luck!

 

thanks guys i just neeeded (didn't want to) hear that.... no more turbo budget i guess

 

I found a new ... well used engine in a junk yard locally for $550.00! i think i will just buy that engine and put a supercharger on it rather than fixing my beaten up 70k engine... agree?

 

sounds good. be sure to check and make sure the new engine does not have any damage either though.

it will probably be cheaper that route, nice find

 

i did this once in my xb.. luckily i was somehow super F'ing quick and smashed the clutch back in before it revved too high.. i guess i got real lucky.

 

Good idea with the new(used) motor. Keep your motor as a side project, and instead of wasting your money on a supercharger and not get real good gains, build up your spare motor slowly with better internals and when thats done keep it off to the side for boost.

 

well the reason i was going to do a s/c is because i like the fuel mileage aspect and it seems to be less consuming on my pockets to install and since i would be doing the installation myself it seems to be an easier install not to mention more top end = less reliability also i really don't want to spend all my joy riding in higher rpms s/c boost all through the powerband as turbos have more boost on top end... i was thinking turbo but alot of people on here report mount and clearance problems cel's and other problems of the sort... s/c problems are more based on belt tension and squeaky belts i'm not looking to boost tha **** out of it i'm looking for long lasting reliable power. but please correct me if i'm wrong

 

If you haven't already start by clearing the codes and see what happens maybe you are in a limp type of mode. If you want to swap the injectors you don't need to pull the valve cover just take off the 2 bolts holding the wires above the fuel rail and remove the 2 bolts holding the rail to the head the rail will then just pop off. Make sure you have a rag nearby to soak up any spills. I can swap injectors in under 10mins so it's easy enough!

 

well thanks man but i have already cleared the codes with a scanner several times and also cleared them by removing the positive batt terminal for about 20 minutes... the reason why i thought u have to take the valve cover off if because there's a hook type thing that is part of it hanging over the fuel line i did remove the 2 bolts and i moved the wiring harness out of my way i got them to move a tad but i then saw a bunch of dirt and trash down beside them so i didn't go to yanking on it.... maybe your yr model doesn't have that "hook" over the fuel line... maybe i'm just scared to break something

 

They all have the hook, you can lift the rail and pivot it enough to clear all the injectors. I use a bunch of q-tips to clean the gunk out from around where the injectors go. I'll get a picture up in a bit.

 

cool thanx! don't need pix but if u wanna then go ahead

 

ALways handy to have an extra seal or two just incase as well!

 

well thanx for tha pic i'm about to go and try this injector swap.... got my fingers x'd