haha i don't think they really expected an 04 to have crummy emissions.


and no i stated before that i havn't done emissions. they explained to me that they put the car up on the roller, test the emissions and performance of the vehicle for inspection so i said "so it's a dyno basicly" and they said yes but only for cars that are 1996 and older. and since now further said here, because of the OBD I, they didn't say anything about that so... thankyou!

what effect does having a stand alone system + F/I'ed have on the emissions? whats thrown off balance? also, could i simply keep the stock exaust in storage or something and just switch that out for testing or would i have to change the stand alone back to stock and take the turbo off and put the stock intake? also, i was thinking of using 10.0:1 pistons inplace of the stocks, or could i use the stocks with new rods and internals without worry? if not, would i have to change from the 10.0:1 back to the stock 10.5:1?

i'm asking because i havn't an address to use for a re-register so i wouldn't hae to do emissions... there is the old man being he lives out the in the middle of nowhere *Hoodsport Washington* and being the town is lituraly... a street and you pass it, they don't have emission laws. but he didn't show the greatest aditude when i asked him about that *he doesn't like doing things the easy and smart way, it's all gota be done hard with him... or else noone learns how to do it*.

 

Keep you catalitic converton on and if you throw a code, get a O2 tricker. You'll be fine

 

keeping the Cad on to what i'm told will hold back about 35-50hp after mods if i'm not mistaken... where could i get an O2 tricker? i could just stick it in there without a Cad couldn't i?

 

man i have to pay like 20-25 dollars for emissions here in GA.........kinda sucks.......but thx for giving me the insight about how emissions are done with OBDII vehicals cuzz i've always ahd to b put on the roller with the cars i took........

 

You could get an aftermarket cat or just knock out the stuff on the stock one, you will need the o2s trickers for knock out the stuff on the stock cat.

But most places require that you have a cat there, at least for a visual inspection. They run a mirror under your car and you go through there to make sure everything in as it should be

 

Gah! this is going to be dumb...

 

Your not going to loose than much power on your set up with a stock cat. If you get a high flow cat then your power loss issues are solved. You will have no codes therefore you will pass emissions.

Regards-

Todd

 

where could i find a highflow cat for the xB? and could i throw it on a modified exaust system? like on a 2.5" or 3"?

 

You'll probably have to find a universal one and have a shop weld it on. Check ebay, they should have some, I know magnaflow has highflows. As far as bigger diameter, I would wait untill after you do the turbo, or do it at the same time. And 2.5 would be max (after you turbo it), anything bigger and you'll kill your toque.

look at it this way. ls1 F-bodies making 500hp have single 3" tubing (maybe 3.5), and they are fine

 

righton thanks a ton!

 

Carsound makes a good highflow cat and most exhaust shops have them or can get them.

Like Stangdude22 said don't go any more than 2.5" on the exhaust otherwise your car will not be any fun to drive.

Good luck

Regards-

Todd

 

It seems as if you have very high ambitions and aspirations to build up your xB. I suggest you do a lot of research before you jump head first into building the car. Are you familiar with what it takes to do an engine build in these cars? Its not a matter of taking out the rods and pistons and dropping the new ones in with ease...the block has to be machined to accept the new rods, and only an experienced machine shop should do that for you. Also, I had a highflow cat on the xB...it was a 2.5" Magnaflow universal cat...if you go that way, they usually have an o2 sensor bung that would need to be welded up. Good luck with your build if you decide to take that route...would be very interested to see the turnout.
Also JSosa...I would suggest against the camcon for tuning purposes...I ran it with my turbo setup as well as a few others and the results werent that impressive...it has everything to do with the 64 bit ecu...try swapping out an echo ecu and then the camcon will respond well to your adjustments with minimal corrections from the stock ECU.

 

o2 sensor would not be in the cat, it would later down the pipe, also, the pistons and rods i will be getting are meant for the 1NZFE block and does not require machining. and if i wasn't already doing the research, then i wouldn't be asking these questions and learning about what i need to do vs. what i want to do...

Todd, stang, thanks guys for the help!

 

ok I was just trying to help you but you are wrong and thats why I am here to try and point you in the right direction. The magnaflow high flow cat DOES HAVE an o2 sensor bung in the cat, I should know as I have had one on my car, have you? Secondly, whether the rods are made for the car or not, 90% of aftemarket rods specifically designed for a vehicle WILL REQUIRE you to notch the bottom of the block to accept the rods being as they are a lot thicker than stock. But, it seems like youve built hundreds of 1nz motors so you dont need my help...Im sorry, your right and Im wrong lol

 

also, I didnt quote you in my response so your able to go back and edit your harsh response to me once you finally realize you are wrong...have a great weekend everyone!!
; )

 

Winter-

You won't be able to know if your block will require machining until you take yours apart. Most of the time you will need it. If your cylinder walls are in good shape you will still need to hone them for your new rings. But most of the aftermarker pistons are the next size up in bore which will require you to re-bore the stock sleeves.

Also unless you just plan on having your stock rods shotpeened, you will have to have some work done on your block(notching) as any of the aftermarket rods use larger rods bolts that won't clear how the stock block is configured.

unless of course you have some stuff that none of us know about and if you do please share

Regards-

Todd[/quote]

 

Winter: You WILL NEED to machine out your cylinders to install pistons and some maching to the crank and well for the rods, that is WITHOUT a doubt!!

Simplyscion: I was going to go with the camcon because i saw the new Siphon magazine and the Toyota Yaris has been tuned with the camcon on a supercharged engine, i don't know if it will work, but eventually ill be buying a megasquirt anyways, so for now i hope it will be enough. Ive heard that the camcon isn't that great for our ECU's and ive also thought about getting an echo ECU, would you happen to know which is the best year to get?? Ive heard by doing this swap i get a couple of lights on my dash like airbag and trac, would you happen to know if this is true?? I have no problem getting my hand on a Echo ECU, i just dont wanna spend money on something that is going to give my a X-Mas tree on my dash...

Todd: Can you recommend me an ECU that doesn't cost thousands of dollars. Man this Todd guy think i $hit cash...

 

I think you will get an unremovable airbag light and CEL unless you mess with the wiring harness...trac is not available on your xA so that wont be an issue. Im not exactly sure as to what year would be the best bet, but I have a feeling that there isnt much of a variance and would probly be the same from about 02-04. I had to pull my EFI fuse almost everyday to keep the Camcon settings from getting overidden by the ECU...not to good as far as reliability is concerned. I would stick to an emanage...megasquirt is a great cheap reliable idea as long as it will be compatible...Standalone functionability for under $400 ftw!!!

 

hmmm it seems that I forgot about the machine shop work that is gonna b needed for the rods, pistons, balanceing, knife edgeing, etc..............so much money in so little time............for me that is ok off to work