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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
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Default 3 caps

would it be possible to run three caps for a audio video system. one for video , one for audio, and one for the car( meaning like the cars power systems, computer and such. This is all coming off the same battery, I am just thinking it would isolate all the systems from each other to a point. I thought of this when I watch someones system at Longo Scions Fright Fest, and someone had a system and every time the bass hit, the video would scramble for a second. Seems like thats a voltage issue..... Just planning for the future for my system.
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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Caps, 3 words,
Waste-of-money.
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Sixpac is correct. Caps are not going to resolve the problem of an inefficient charging system. Spend your money on a bettery battery setup and HO alternator to keep it charged.
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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is one cap worth it for when the bass hits?
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sixpac440
Caps, 3 words,
Waste-of-money.
I don't necessarily disagree with you on this but I'd say it's application dependant. If you have a setup where your maximum current draw is only slightly higher than the current capacity of your system a cap can be helpful. If your system needs 200amps and you can produce 80 a cap isn't gonna do squat. I'd try hooking your caps up like that if you already have them. Worst case scenario it's no worse than it is now. Mark
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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Well I have just my stock system now,I am just planning on what I am going to do, I just wanted to avoid what I saw that other guys system doing when the bass hit.
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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If you are planning out a large, high-current system running multiple screens, several amps, etc., don't cheap out on the power supply side. It could make or break you if you compete. It could also damage equipment and cause premature failure which is never a picnic.
HO alternators and high-current batteries are not cheap, but are certainly worth the money if you intend on having a huge, show-quality setup. For now, skip the caps and plan on spending the $$$ on a bigger alternator and battery(ies).
What are you planning out, or is it a trade secret?
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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Well my intention is to make everything as fairly, un obtrusive as possible, meaning no loss of cargo or capacity in the car, the takes affect the most for the subs in the back cargo area, I want to have 2 12's back there, and I want to make it so I can still have an area back there for luggage and such. I will have a 17 inch flip down screen from where the door light is right now, and I am thinking of putting 1.8 inch screens up and down the pillars in the car maybe 3 or four each pillar. alpine double din unit in the dash and lcds in front of the driver and passenger integrated into the dash. Use Audio forms to hold the amps in the rear windows Maybe put the hatch on linear actuators and have a plasma flip down as it opens, but that will be later.
Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Like UV7 said don't cheap out on the charging system, especially since it looks like you're gonna drop some serious change on the xB. Mark
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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i have a similer question.. im running 3 amps with no cap and stock charhing system.. yes i know this is stupid but it is only temp. ok so the question is if i buy a 2nd battery would i still need to get a ho alt.????
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by lppro-xb
i have a similer question.. im running 3 amps with no cap and stock charhing system.. yes i know this is stupid but it is only temp. ok so the question is if i buy a 2nd battery would i still need to get a ho alt.????
You may, in fact, worsen the problem with a second battery. If your lights are dimming the HO alternator is the way to go. It's cheaper than fried electronics. Mark
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 02:00 AM
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hmmm.... i guess im gana bet my alt re-built then... how many amps do i need comming out of it?? im running aprox. 1600 watts and a 400 watt power inverter and a cupple tv's and a sh*% load of lights...
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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The simple formula is Watts=Amps X Volts. Using this, your 2000+ watts @ 14.4 volts (standard output), is going to draw 140 amps minimum. Considering that the car draws additional current itself, it is safe to say you need to be running 150 amps at a bare minimum. I would shoot for 200 if you can get it. This would provide PLENTY of current for your setup and keep you from damaging electronics.
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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ok well im going to contact a alt. shop and get it done soon.
Old Oct 27, 2006 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by UV7
The simple formula is Watts=Amps X Volts. Using this, your 2000+ watts @ 14.4 volts (standard output), is going to draw 140 amps minimum. Considering that the car draws additional current itself, it is safe to say you need to be running 150 amps at a bare minimum. I would shoot for 200 if you can get it. This would provide PLENTY of current for your setup and keep you from damaging electronics.
Good post! BTW lp-pro I don't think you'll be able to get a rewound with that much current. One thing to check as well is the current at idle, as many alternators are listed at a higher RPM which is fine if you're moving but often when you're really wanging on it you're sitting still and some HO alts. actually have LESS output at idle than stock. Mark
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