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Alarm/Remote start

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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 05:50 AM
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Default Alarm/Remote start

Help! Has anyone had a problem with there door tigger light staying on when the door is closed. not bright but a dimm light shows after the door is close.you unplug the door tigger and it go's away, but then the door tigger don't work.
Old Apr 22, 2005 | 02:10 PM
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sounds like a poorly wired alarm system.
Old Apr 23, 2005 | 06:39 AM
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There is a shorted/grounded wire in that circuit somewhere.
Old Apr 23, 2005 | 08:07 AM
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Default Re: Alarm/Remote start

Originally Posted by lil xb
Help! Has anyone had a problem with there door tigger light staying on when the door is closed. not bright but a dimm light shows after the door is close.you unplug the door tigger and it go's away, but then the door tigger don't work.
are you the same guy with that was pming me...i think i gave you the wrong info...you have to diode it...the direction of the diode should be goin to the door pin power of your car and not the alarm......and if that doesnt work..switch it around and it should work =)
Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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Default Re: Alarm/Remote start

Originally Posted by lil xb
Help! Has anyone had a problem with there door tigger light staying on when the door is closed. not bright but a dimm light shows after the door is close.you unplug the door tigger and it go's away, but then the door tigger don't work.
This is happening to me. What do I do?
Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:42 PM
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moved...
Old Jul 27, 2005 | 10:49 PM
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Default Re: Alarm/Remote start

Originally Posted by OdBox
Originally Posted by lil xb
Help! Has anyone had a problem with there door tigger light staying on when the door is closed. not bright but a dimm light shows after the door is close.you unplug the door tigger and it go's away, but then the door tigger don't work.
This is happening to me. What do I do?
This is correct, you need a diode, Al my alarms come prewired with the diode installed on the door trigger wire. I also use a diode on starter kill relay.

www.scionspecialties.net
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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^^he is right, but try running back through all your wiring and make sure everything is connected correctly.
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Xb
There is a shorted/grounded wire in that circuit somewhere.
A shorted wire wouldn't be a likely scenario in this matter. Typically, you have a grounding circuit issue. If you can eliminate the light emission by disconnecting/reconnecting, then that means your door trigger (asumming a negative trigger) doesn't have a strong isolation to the ground. Meaning that the door trigger has a slight connection to the ground via circuit design which is tolerant to vehicle design but not to alarm design when the door is closed. So, when the door is opened, the light goes on, but when the door is closed, the door trigger signal isn't terminated.

Another scenario is that you have a poorly designed alarm system which has the same characteristics as your door trigger (slight connection to ground) via circuitry.

Two solutions are as follows:

Yes a diode would be a typical solution but it is a 50/50 chance. Depending on the bias/tolerance characteristics of the diode you choose, it may or may not through the P-N junction eliminate the ground signal since diodes have a 0.7 V drop forward bias.

2nd solution is to use a relay. This is a more guaranteed solution as the ground signal required by a relay through the inductor is relatively high, therefore, your dim light effect will be eliminated because the relay requires approx. 100ma of current which in your case the weakened door trigger (-) signal can't provide that adequate signal with the door closed. With the door opened, a more solidified (-) signal will close the contacts on the relay and pass a strong (door trigger signal) to the alarm.

I would suggest on a 4 SPST pole relay to use this connection method:

Pin 85 - +12V
Pin 86 - Door Trigger (-)
Pin 87 - Ground (-) <-- don't use door trigger ground, use chassis ground
Pin 30 - Connect to Alarm door trigger.

Once again, this is assuming your door trigger is a (-) signal.
Old Jul 28, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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I am not trying to sound like I know it all, But being a veteran of 100 plus scion installs, 70 plus being my own brand, which has the same problem of the faint door open light, the diode cures the problem everytime, thats why I prewire the alarms with a 1 amp diode, to make my life easier.

The relay is geat for Isolating, but a diode only cost a few cents when bought in bulk and is alot easier t install. Use the diode and save yourself time and money.
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by scionspecialistvegas
I am not trying to sound like I know it all, But being a veteran of 100 plus scion installs, 70 plus being my own brand, which has the same problem of the faint door open light, the diode cures the problem everytime, thats why I prewire the alarms with a 1 amp diode, to make my life easier.

The relay is geat for Isolating, but a diode only cost a few cents when bought in bulk and is alot easier t install. Use the diode and save yourself time and money.

Nor do I try to sound like that either. I hold your service record in the highest regards. I just offer assurance over chance in aftermarket installations that don't have the diode prewired. You could use a PNP transistor but thats a little more complicated.
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 05:40 PM
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I have used pnp& npn for isolating curcuits while not for low voltage dc, for simple automotive use the diode is easiest for practical purposes. You are also well versed, and you input is appreciated and needed on this forum. Thanks for the helpful input. Bill
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by scionspecialistvegas
I have used pnp& npn for isolating curcuits while not for low voltage dc, for simple automotive use the diode is easiest for practical purposes. You are also well versed, and you input is appreciated and needed on this forum. Thanks for the helpful input. Bill
Thank you for the compliment. I have full confidence in your practices and look forward to future discussions with you.
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