amp capacitors and distribution blocks
I have a kenwood 4 channel amp ( kac-x541 ) 960w max something like 4x80 at 4 ohms ( amp is at the house, i am not ) and I plan on ordering the excelon kac-x811d sub amp, puts out 1000w x 1 @ 1 ohm rms with a 1600w max output. the question is this : Do I need to run two seperate 4 gauge wires from the battery or can I use a distribution block of some sort. If so, do I use one big fuse between the battery and the dist. block or two seperate fuses between the block and each amp? When I get home I need to look in the instruction manual too see what size fuse the four ch. needs. I would think the sub amp would take a similar size, ( with one fuse, would you add the fuse ratings together? it does not seem right this way , and I don't wanna fry anything but chicken and bacon ) also after I throw two 10" 's on the sub amp do you think I need a cap or just get a optima? I know that there is several different opinions on here about caps but I am hoping for some personal expierence responses from people with two amp systems. b.t.w. I know the 4 ch. amp requires a 4 gauge wire, and I think the spec sheet I read says the sub amp requires the same size.. thank you .
Or instead of getting a fuses you can put a circuit breaker which will just trip breaker kinda like a house breaker. I put 3 Solobarics and 4 Polk components in my buddies truck w/ a 1250 mono amp and 972-4 channel amp which both take lots of juice and the circuit was the best money saving thing to buy. You can pick one up at any Audio place.
They're wired in just like an inline fuse... I personally only see need for a circut breaker in a 1500+ watt system at competition....you should have a fuse within 18inches of your battery and it should probably be 0 ga. wire going to a dist. block with a 4 ga. going to the 1000watt amp and a 4 or 8ga going to the 4 channel amp(whichever one the amp accepts)....
capacitors are not necessary as they're widely misused and misunderstood.... if your lights dim when the bass hits, you need to upgrade the Big3, upgrade to a better battery (optima), and upgrade to a higher output alternator all in that order.... Caps are for slight transient peaks at NORMAL listening levels... not for stopping dimming at full blast....
and BTW: I have a 632 watt rms amp and a 300 watt RMS amp in my tC and don't have any issues.... You should be good with upgraded wiring and maybe an optima..
capacitors are not necessary as they're widely misused and misunderstood.... if your lights dim when the bass hits, you need to upgrade the Big3, upgrade to a better battery (optima), and upgrade to a higher output alternator all in that order.... Caps are for slight transient peaks at NORMAL listening levels... not for stopping dimming at full blast....
and BTW: I have a 632 watt rms amp and a 300 watt RMS amp in my tC and don't have any issues.... You should be good with upgraded wiring and maybe an optima..
I would go with a circuit breaker. If a fuse blows you have to get a new fuse. With a circuit breaker you just push the tab back if it trips like in your house. No need to spend more money on a fuse.
ok so do I use the 0 gauge wire with a circuit breaker or fuse , then do I get a distribution block with second fuses or just the one near the battery? I bought a four gauge amp wiring kit, hopefully the stereo shop will take it back, as I bought from a different shop than my regular dealer.
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