So I was bored the yesterday, and decided to wire up a switch on the dash to control the dome light. Reaching over my shoulder was becoming way to labor intensive (my lame justification). So i made the mistake of using a 30 amp fuse in my power line and literally melted the dome light assembly. Keep in mind I left all stock wiring intact, and ran an additional power and ground to the light. Being that my old light was donzo, I ordered a new dome light from the dealer. Today, after a few hours I had the whole headliner off, and I traced the wires from the dome light back to the last pillar where they run down to the floor. I had fried the wires right off of the dome light (or so I thought) so I simply cut and spliced in some fresh wires further back where it looked like the wires were not affected, and ran them to my new dome ligt assembly, which I just got today. Still didn't work. So now I'm stuck. I'm pretty sure I've done some other damage further down the line. I would appreciate any suggestions or input. I asked the dealer about the wire and they quoted me 550.00 !! (I'm guessing it's the whole harness and can't be sold in specific pieces). Is there any aftermarket product or sensor that allows for a light to come on when the doors are openned, because that's all I really miss from it. Please, I know it was a completely idiotic move on my part so hold your bashing.

 

check the fuse?

 

Checking the fuse is definately first, but did you wire the switch wrong to burn it up in the first place. Do your doorpins still work , does it show doors open on the insrtument cluster.You might have burned up part of the bcm for the domelight. You are going to have to take it one step at a time and try to troubleshoot the problem out. Fuse first then doorpins, grounded out burnt wires, etc. Hit me up once you try these ideas and i lee if i can come up with some more things for you. Good luck, B.

 

seeing how it is connected to a dimmer stock, there is a chance that it normally has some resistance in line with it... I havent even looked at one, but that is just one possibility.

 

I cant really tell you what you broke because Id have to see how you wired it but the proper way to wire a switch like wouldve been to send a ground pulse to the driver door trigger wire.... Good luck.

 

Here's a start:

 

Tom,
That was very nice (and I'm sure helpful) of you to post the wire diagram for this post.
Checked out your website and enjoyed it!
Would be nice to see more of our fellow SL members posted on
www.frappr.com/scionlife
Kind of interesting to see where everyone is at.

 

Thanks everyone for the input. The wire diagram is awsome! However, I don't know where the combination meter or door lock conmtrol relay are located in the box (I'm not ready to tear everything apart again. So I'll tell you what i did. As described in the diagram, there are 2 wires going to the dome light. The L-Y was still giving me power so I used it, but the R-Y was no longer grounded by the doorpins (when a door was openned) So I tapped into a R-W wire right behind the passenger doorpin and ran it up to the light. It now works for all the doors. The only difference is the light doesn't come on when the unlock is acitivated from the remote and stay on until the car is started. This would have to be the result of bypassing the relay. But it works now and I learned some cool stuff.

Thanks everyone again, I can't believe how fast you all replied!

 

Rather than bypassing the relay and or control module, I would simply figure out what is output from the "ON" setting for the dome light and reproduce that with your new switch. You would then be doing the exact same thing as the stock overhead switch and all other inputs would work as normal

 

The "Combination Meter" is the speedometer, fuel gauge, tachometer, odometer, indicator lights and electronics that go with all those...



The "Door Lock Control Relay" isn't really just a relay, but an electronic control module with a 25 pin connector that controls a bunch of things, and is located just below the Combination Meter inside the dash...



Both of these are very complex electronic assemblies and cost a bunch of bucks if damaged...

You say "The L-Y was still giving me power so I used it, but the R-Y was no longer grounded by the doorpins (when a door was openned)"... which says to me you probably let the 'magic smoke' out of part of the "Door Lock Control Relay" electronics.

So long as the remainder of the Door Lock Control Relay electronics work, my guess is you'd want to just live with the overhead lights not working as they should, rather than spending a bunch of bucks replacing the module.

(My old '55 Chevy was a lot easier...)

Good luck!

 

^^ Yep, I know that the cluster runs about $250 if you have to replace it.

Tomas, I was wondering if you have a pinout of the gauge cluster? for a new project (well, actually one I have been meaning to finish design on for quite a while) I am needing to tie into the Vehicle speed and Engine speed signals (both square waves). Finding the Engine speed was simple by simply hooking up and revving the engine.. however, I didnt feel like driving 10 feet, then switching wires, then driving again.. etc to find the VSS wire if not needed. So I thought maybe you would have that pinout. Thanks a million if you do!

 

Uh, engifineer, I PM'd you the info... :D

 

I never saw it in my inbox.... if I accidentally deleted it.. please call me names now

Could you resend? I really appreciate it!

 

That's what I originally intended to do. However, reproducing the "on" position didn't involve adding power as I did and melted the assembly. You just have to add another ground to act like one of the doorpins, which I now have working. I wish there were some more fuses in this wiring!

Thanks again for all the diagrams and input!

By the way, Tomas, where are you getting all these ?