Jan06xB

Ok it happened today - I stopped the engine and pressed the menu button just as it blanked to go to sleep and had to press it again to wake it up. When I did all the driving info was reset only keeping the engine size and speed and fuel adjustments. No tank or today info - poof all gone. It did not loose power. SG2 first time it lost all the data it had locked up a few times which cleared when I unplugged it without loosing data but not today.

pandaslayer

I'm not happy with mine. it's showing me that I'm getting 10mpg (a constant avg.) while I'm really getting 25-30mpg. Also, there's no way my speedo is 10mph off. what am I missing?

basically all my fuel consumption stats are wrong...gph, mpg, etc.

Max

Sounds like you really need to calibrate it. Did you do that?

Tomas

...and if you DID calibrate it already, it's wrong - reset to factory and start over. Follow the manual.

Tomas

Jan06xB

Set engine size to 1.5 liters, speed to 3% positive 9% fuel correction positive would be a good start for stock tires. Tank to 12 gallons also then at the next fillup do the fillup without correction to gallons used until your next fillup.

Biggest thing to set is the engine size.

cherryBox

did the screen revert to the default color and fill the top row with squares? mine did that to me once, and froze...yanking the cable out and reseating it did the trick, and I got my settings back. (keeping in mind that while it LOOKS like a cat5 network cable, there's actually power running across the pins and if i were to touch the pins on the rj45 while the car was running, I would risk a short)

I didn't happen to check the daily data tho, might have lost that.

Jan06xB

The screen came back on like usual and I have it set to white anyway but all data was gone as far as miles and gas used like I did a reset or something - nothing it it for the prior day either or the tank . . . so I guess I need to fill up again and start over . . . only at half a tank so with the gas prices going up all the time it is a good idea anyway. Kinda bummed because this is the first time this has happened to this unit other than locking up a few times but it never lost the data before.

pandaslayer

what if my tires are 1.4% faster than stock?

Tomas

Depends on what you mean by "1.4% faster."

If you mean that your tires are 1.4% smaller diameter, then your OEM speedo probably indicates about 4.5% too fast. If you mean your tires are 1.4% larger diameter, then your speedo is probably only about 1.5% fast.

The objective of the correction entered into the ScanGauge is to get the ScanGauge to indicate actual groundspeed no matter what the factory speedo indicates.

(Not having a ScanGauge yet I do NOT know if the error is in the OEM speedo or in the OEM ECM signal, so I personally don't know what, if any, correction needs to be entered on average. FROM THE FACTORY, the OEM speedo is designed to read an average of about 3% too fast at freeway speeds, so the objective should NOT be to make the ScanGauge and factory speedo read the same, but to get the ScanGauge to read accurately.)

Tomas

pandaslayer

i was just going by what miata.net wheel size calculator was saying. when my speedo says 60 I'm going 60.4

Jan06xB

Actually the digital speed from the ECU is about 3% off (low) and the Odometer is off as well about 5-10% off so if you get the speed corrected on the SG2 to match a GPS for instance like I did then the SG will at least measure distance traveled and speed correctly. The actual speedo on the dash is another issue and typically reads high plus there is some parrallex error because you are looking at it at an angle.

Jan06xB

Sounds like you need to add another 1.4 to the 3% speed adjustment if your tires are larger.

pandaslayer

ahh okay, I'll try this stuff out tonight. This is all confusing to me.

Max

The compensation seems to be in the speedo, as my Scangauge reads about 3% lower than the speedo. I have not compensated for this, as I like to know how fast I am actually going.

Jan06xB

The 3% correction to the scangauge makes it read the digital speed correctly off the ECU and I calibrated it with a GPS and roadside Radar signs. The dash speedo is going to be another calibration inside the actual meter movement of the speedo that I have not bothered with yet and is independant of the digital ECU speed and ScanGauge calibration which gets the speed signal from the ECU. Actually the Dash speedo is also driven by the ECU and is not very accurate in that it usually reads a little high. I don't look at it much unless I am downshifting to check the tach. The idea is to get the SG calibrated to get accurate MPG readings and mileage readings from the calibrated speed. Your car odometer will also read less miles than you actually travel as well even though the dash speedo reads faster than actual speed.

silverevo05

iTrader: (1)

What is everyones normal running VOLTS

I get 13.5 to 13.9 though today on my scangauge when stoped I put my windows up and held it up. My engine almost died rpms went down to 593rpms (norm is 662 ish for me)and volts to 11.9 where typically it hangs out around 13.5 to 13.9

oh and my fuel loop seems to work like a blow off valve on turbo cars. If I put a lot of gas and then put it in neutral it goes to open loop then back to closed or when pushing the gas and then letting off same thing happens. Plus open loop on early morning warm ups, Is this norm?

last but not least my timing hangs out around 30 to 35 when I'm ready to switch to the next gear with an occasional 40 to 41 on the freeway's, is this norm? (15 to 18 when in gear and coasting)

THANKS EVERYONE

Jan06xB

I don't know if there is a shut off switch on the power windows but if there isn't you will have a fire in the doors if you keep doing that. Normal voltage on a lead acid battery being charged properly is 14 volts to 14.25 volts any higher and it starts gassing out H2 and O2 and losing water and electrolyte. Open loop is when you operate outside the measurement limits of the air flow sensors and other sensors - not the efficient points of operation for the engine. It is the oxygen sensor feedback that it is referring to. Timing is exactly right on 42 is supposed to be the max and I too have seen 41 at 60mph.

Tomas

According to the schematic, there isn't a thermal switch in the motor, although there is some sort of "resistance" (possibly a variable one, depending on load - they don't say) in series with each motor.

Anyway, probably not the best idea to hold power on to the motors when they are stalled...

Tomas

Jan06xB

Yeah I am with Thomas on this one - the electrical power is probably coming from the single main 10 or 8 awg wire from the battery to the fuse panel under the dash plus a little more resistance from the fuse and lighter wiring from the panel to the door. Any heavy load like the power windows - more than one at a time and the heater fan will cause a bit of a drop in voltage at the panel. The battery is probably still at about 14 volts being kept up by the alternator but there is a bit of a drop from the wire going to the dash. I saw 13.4-13.6 on my GPS this evening after dark today which monitors the cigarette lighter voltage but the SG2 read 13.9-14.0 volts and my $3.00 Harbor Freight meter measured 13.98 volts (calibrated from a lab 4 1/2 digit Fluke).

stillmotion

anyone have a photo of this in a tc? im trying to come up with a place to mount it but there are not too many great places...