Anybody know the torque for the banjo bolt with 2 copper washers going into the caliper?
-Thanks

 

My Techna-Fit's are 12-14 ft/lbs.

 

Thanks, I was gonna try 14 and then tighten if it leaked.

 

Straight out of the Service Manual:

Install a new gasket and the flexible hose with the union
bolt.
Torque: 30 NVm (310 kgfVcm, 22 ftVlbf)
HINT:
Install the flexible hose lock securely in the lock hole in the disc
brake cylinder sub–assy.

Just did a set of stainless brake lines on a bike and those are aluminum crush washers and the torque was 16 lb.-ft., so it would make sense that copper washers would be a little higher torque spec.

 

OK. Got it.

 

You will know it's overtorqued when the bolt gives a bit and or the cross drilled holes go oval and twisted
https://s38.photobucket.com/user/Ric...tml?sort=3&o=6
This one was an oil supply bolt on a Suzuki Bandit engine - they keep a lot in stock, I wonder why???

 

From the school of 'torque it until it creaks and then go another half turn'? Looks like a lot of folks working on Bandits are lacking that well calibrated elbow and aren't using a torque wrench...that's still got to be some decent torque as it looks like a steel bolt.

I'm pretty OCD about following factory torque specs on everything as I figure the engineers took the time for a reason.

 

It is a steel bolt, but it fails very easily. The cross drilling and drilling up the bolt leaves very little steel cross section left. I was trying to use a torque wrench but at 11-12 ft lbs, it was at the bottom of the wrench range and thus not accurate.
After learning the hard way, I use the "do by feel" method and If I feel it "give", it comes out and gets replaced.
Having hot oil dump on your leg is no fun.

 

Anything under about 10-12 ft.-lbs. I use an in.-lb. wrench on because, as you said, at the bottom of its range it tends to be less accurate.