But think about it...once you take off the strut, everything connected to the lower part of the strut can move freely.

 

if they can move freely with the strut gone, they can move freely with the strut there.

keep in mind what each part does. then think of what a spring change does.
the strut ...only dampens the up down motion.
(which stays the same...if you got a new strut, the mounting bolts could have a diff geometry and an alignment would be wise)

the tie rod still is set to the same distance.
this keeps the spindles pointed in a direction (toe in or out. this does not change with a spring change.)

the control arm still piviots on its' own two piviot bolts. yes, it can hang down, but this is what keeps the ailgnment intact, not the strut.

you are disconnecting the strut from the top of the spindle and the chasiss. only one of the goemetry factors is in play here. camber.
the top of the strut is fixed location style. no adjustments can be done here (with out buying camber plates)

 

But if you do one at a time then on spindle can move while the other stays in place.

 

how do you figure???

you will always be doing one at a time. are you that fast, that you can do both sides at the same time???

unless you messed with the spindle, control arm, tie rod...you will be fine.
you didn't even change the strut, just the spring on the strut.

if it will make you sleep better at night, go spend the 60-100 dollars for an alignment.

let me ask, did you drive the car after the drop?
does the car drift in the lane?
does the car pull?

more now than before the drop???

 

When i said do one at a time, i meant the wheel on the other side is on the ground. You can do both at the same time, and the speed has nothing to do with it. If you lift both sides up at the same time then you can take both apart then put both back together, which is to me doing them at the same time. It won't make me sleep any better, because if i don't have to then i won't, i mean who wants to spend money when they don't need to?

Oh, and no it dosen't pull more, but the steering wheel is a little to the right when i'm going straight

 

 

Okay so what about the people who have been working on cars for a while who say you should after changing suspension?

 

haha i just wanted to point out that the title of the thread is "Some Simple Mathematics " and here we are talking about geometry and angles and all sorta of stuff...sorry...its been a long Monday

 

the simple part is over with, we've moved on. Do you need to be remediated?

 

this is silly.

the springs look great, and I think you will like them. They will definitely settle in over time, and you might want to consider some monroes in the rear, after they settle. That will make the ride a bit more comfortable.

I speak from experience, it's the same setup i'm running, and i like it.

 

Thanks, i do plan on getting the Monroes. I'm not trying to argue for the sake of arguing, but to make sure i don't have to spend that $100 that i can put to much better use.

 

one side at a time or both in the air does not matter...did some on a lift, and some with a jack in the driveway.

my wheel was a little to the right before i did mine. came into the port that way.
it is a common complaint from people.
your alignment will be fine.
the only issue i found (after two years) is the bearing on the strut cap (pass side) got blown out from bottoming. now it kina clunks over some bumps. and that is from being lowered. not an alignment issue

 

Guess you lucked out cause my toe was off after lowering.... way off, and the steering wheel was way off as well. Same happened with my freinds box when he lowered it, and my friends Accord, and another friends box.

 

i guess i did get lucky...over 30 times...(my own 4 times) check with anyone from NRG around NY...
all xA's and xB's
not a single one has yet needed an alignment from lowering springs.
maybe you are not that good with a wrench and should stop doing springs for people....

and the accord is a differnt car. they get some very wicked camber, this combined with a good dose of toe from factory. combined it will cause bad tire wear and some twitchy-ness in some conditions. so if you like twitchy cars and wearing through tire in 10,000 miles, you will need an alignment.

the box after dropping does not get more than a degree of camber and it is not twitch at all.
i even have the same set of tire on the box 25,000 miles on them and i have over 60% wear left. i actually get more wear from the rear (where you can not adjust this) than the fronts.

 

i didn't intall other peoples springs. not good with a wrench? that's right, they just hand out ASE certifications out to everyone I guess....