i have a bop and i used some royal blue paint with a few coats then a coat or two of clear , a lil lighter than bop but if in the shade dead on still a nice color i did teh relay cover and the fuse box cover too, i also did many interior pieces looks soo good. i'll get some pics on my car domain page soon

 

Mikochu wrote
My body shop man explained it to me. All auto plastic today that is formed in a mold (95%) is embedded with a manufacturing aid called "Mold Release" Like the name implies, it is a compound that seeps from the plastic to aid in it releasing from the mold during production. It releases any chemical put on it for the life of the plastic. Kinda like PAM when you are cooking.

That adhesion promoter ( I found it at autozone and Advance auto parts) needs 3 patient coats. Don't rush it. Then any high temp paint will work fine. Plenty of PATIENT coats doesn't hurt.

He also pointed out the high temp primer on calipers and drums with any high temp paint is as effective as any "SPECIAL" caliper paint you can buy.

Hope my two cents is worth a penny! :D

 

Does the engine cover really need heat resistant paint? It is plastic right?


As for the "SPECIAL" paint that is used for calipers, it is not only heat resistant it is also chemical resistant. You can primer and paint with high temp all day but it will not resist brake cleaner and other chemicals.

 

The guy that painted my box also did my cover the same with the flames for $60 more. Single colors are $25. I'll post a pic tomorrow of the cover. He also did my A and B pillars something weird which makes all the guys at the car wash try and scrub it off. Pics will follow tomorrow.
SUBZERO

 

Any paint will hold up to the heat, but if you are in doubt, use engine paint- that is what I've used on the calipers of my BMW, and Beetle, and they have both held up very long term. (duplicolor ford engine blue) On my beetle's engine cover, I used the same paint used to paint the outside of the car with (base/clear) and it has held up perfect for years too.

The 2 main secrets as already pointed out:

1.) clean, clean, and then clean it again. and when you think it's clean, clean it some more for good measure. Brake clean works perfect as paint prep as it leaves no residue.

B.) Use the Adhesion promotor as per the directions. I have had great luck with a product called Bulldog adhesion promoter from Auto Value parts stores that have a body shop supply store attached.

 

hi guys and gals

krylon mades a paint in tha can called fusion,and is for plastics.there is 1 red and some blues,but you could use any color for tha base and spray your color over it. make sure you clean and cleansome more before painting.if you want a flat finish then maybe a satin clear. tha wrinkle is cool too. maybe a hammertone finish? just hope this might help. i was a custom auto and bike painter for 20 yrs.

bondobob

 

I may get ripped for this but am I the only person here who does not like the crinkle paint? I have seen this on several posts, poeple talking about using it on the interior and now the engine cover. I don't know, maybe someone can enlighten me on the whole crinkle paint thing but for now I'm just not diggin' it! Sorry

 

wrinkle paint, if sprayed lightly and evenly enough will closely match the interiors plastic texture. as for the engine bay, that's what it's really made for i think. paint's really strong and durable once you let it cure for a while of course. you can't touch the stuff for at least a day or the wrinkles will just shift on you.

you can get it to look clean if you don't go crazy and spray the hell out of it. the timing on the wait inbetween coats is what will get it looking good, that and light coats. it's hard to get it perfect though.

here's my switch panel in wrinkle paint... matches pretty closely. gives it kind of a plastic texture.