NyoroBox

just a thought, maybe kevin sent u a wrong turbo. the internal wastage part (v-band) seems larger than usual?

1vicissitude

Yikes man sorry to hear about the problems. The pictures make it lok so coomplete and finished nicely. Guess thats wy its $1200 right? I still wanna play with it thoough haha. I'm sure its nothing a di-grinder couldnt fix. The shaft play kinda scares me though. aren't those things supposed to be tight as heck?

YELOSUB

Watching for the finished project...Good luck and hope you get everything worked out...

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I thought that too but after looking closer, the v-band coupler on the DP is for 2 1/4" pipe instead of 2 1/2", as it should be. I'm not ready to install the turbo anyway so a few days wait on a new DP is no big deal. I still have to have a bung welded into my s-pipe for the wideband, install the tranny cooler and finish wiring up my gauges. I'm also waiting on the OBD2-USB adapter to monitor the ECU.

I over-reacted before. The kit really is quite complete and finished pretty nicely. The missing hardware only cost me $5 at Home Depot so the only important missing part is the oil pan fitting that Fedex might have lost. IMO the worst part of the kit is the manifold. It's basically okay but should have been finished better. It took me several hours to clean it up with a rotary tool, a carbide cutting bit and several stone bits. It would have worked as-is but backpressure on cyls 2&3 would have been higher than 1&4.

As for the turbo shaft play, it seems a bit much on the compressor wheel side but this is my first turbo so I'm not in a good position to judge it. I'm just worried about the compressor wheel contacting the housing after some bearing wear.


Thanks. I finally finished cleaning up the manifold tonight so all I need from CXR is the oil pan fitting and the new DP. I posted some "before" manifold pics so here are the 'after' pics. Not such a bad manifold after a few hours of dremel work.

















Gauges installed but not yet wired. PITA working around all the panel fasteners but I like them in this location.

NyoroBox

manifold looks so much better! you must've created some ruckus around your neighbor with cleaning those stuff.

keep 'em coming!

XD40tC

You did a great job cleaning that manifold!

Mach-box

you really did.

homerhitta

wow great job cleaning that manifold. looks pretty good man.

i wouldn't worry too much about the shaft play. i had a decent amount of shaft play on my turbo too. everythings been fine.

lookin forward to seein that finished product!

coryjames

Wana get rid of shaft play buy a bb turbo lol

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the compliments on the manifold. It took a lot of time and patience but I actually enjoy that sort of thing. I was pretty critical of it before but neglected to give credit for the things that are right about it. The welds look very strong and the head flange is very flat. In fact, although a thicker gasket was included, I'll be using the thin metal oem gasket instead.

I doubt my neighbors appreciated me dremeling the manifold at 2am. Be thankful you don't live next door to me!

Thanks for the advice on the shaft play homerhitta. It makes me feel better about it. Apparently radial shaft play is worse than axial play providing that the comp wheel doesn't hit the housing. This turbo has no discernible radial shaft play.

Next up, finish wiring the gauges, install tranny cooler and have the O2 bung welded in and the mani bracing welded on.

A Garrett BB T3/T4 would cost as much as this entire kit! LOL

Florida'09xB

i really like the guages and where you put em. its like toyota designed the dash for em!

subscribed for updates...g/l

coryjames

thats how we all rock out gauges

DarkBox

man i cant wait for you to get everything cause thats the turbo i want to buy i need to know already!!!

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Kevin at CXR tells me they have a TC turbo kit coming soon and that eventually they plan to incorporate cast manifolds. Anyone interested in a turbo kit should check out the CXR website and email Kevin to show him that there is indeed some interest. He told me that the reason they haven't done more with Scion is a perceived lack of interest.

http://www.cxracing.com/

Their 240SX drift car looks pretty legit to me as does their R&D chief's RX3 that does the 1/4 mile in 8.5 secs @ 160mph.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Been working a lot lately so the turbo progress is slow. All I did today was adjust the wastegate for the lowest possible boost (starting point) and rotate the CHRA so the oil drain is at 6 o'clock. I wonder how many turbo problems are caused by not doing this critical step?

Note: The wastegate comes preset to 8psi.

I'm also shopping for a shorter oil feed line and a bolt-on oil pan drain fitting. The feed line included is 36" long but I only need about 12" and the included oil pan fitting is a weld-on type.

How did you turboed guys tap your oil pans? Punch and thread, weld-on or bolt-on? Is there an oil pan gasket or just RTV?

NyoroBox

i've actually seen all those methods. people like to weld the bung to be the safest, but u gotta take it to the weld shop.

If not, you can just use some gasket and bolt the it on. just find a very flat surface to do this.

you can't really punch and thread cause the pan is pretty thin.

coryjames

the fitting needs to be welded drill a hole weld it up there is no gasket its just gasket do no use silicone i recoment this stuff called the right stuff it comes in a cheese wiz can ant local auto parts store its the best trust me the very very best

DarkBox

dang you guys really know all this home work, but still waiting to see how it runs

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I only have one car and a motorcycle. I'm not thrilled about having to stuff the oil pan into a saddlebag on install day to take it to a welder. I could drill the pan and install a bolt-on fitting right here at home very easily. I'm not a fan of "punch and thread' unless oil pan removal is a serous PITA. I thought P&T only worked on thin stamped steel oil pans?

Thanks for the tip on "The right stuff". The very short cure time is very nice.

I should measure stuff twice before cutting or talking about it. I said that the CXR DP was 2.5" ID with a 2.25" V-band coupler but that was incorrect. The DP is actually 2.25" ID. While a 2.5" ID DP would be better for higher HP, given my modest goal of only 200whp, 2.25" ID should be okay. It matches up well to the oem 2.25" to 2.5" S-pipe and keeps the exhaust gas velocity high until the oem transition point at mid-s-pipe. Bigger is not always better, especially in terms of low rpm torque.

I'm off work for the next 2 days so I should get the gauges finished, the tranny cooler installed and everything ready for the turbo install next week.

NyoroBox

use this!