8" in front doors and stealth sub (spare stays).
#21
I just want to know, does the window still roll doww, and how far. i ran into this problem with just a 6 1/2" on the 1gen, ended up having to use a spacer ring for clearance.
#23
Just a word of advice, most "subwoofer" drivers are designed to work within an enclosure (sealed and/or ported). You're looking at an infinite baffle (IB) installation in your door but even then you're not sealing the back side from the front. I would suggest you look at drivers that are the woofer for a set. Dynaudio makes a 3-way set with an 8" woofer. This is designed for this type of installation. MW170
MB Quart, Focal and Diamond offer similar sets/drivers
MB Quart, Focal and Diamond offer similar sets/drivers
#25
Since I'm not smart, and using a set of speakers I have from a previous purchase (with filler off ebay) can I ask what may be considered a few dumb questions?
1) For the Sub in the rear, you used an 8" and said a person wouldn't need to use a Shallow sub. Would the same be true for a 10"? Or would I need to purchase the Shallow variant of the 10" sub I like?
2) For the Door Install, are you putting your 8" Woofer in factory 6.5 slot? If not, are you going to use the large plastic area of the door right next to the seat (for instance the driver side door, directly "behind - towards the back of the vehicle" the 1 Liter bottle holder? Could a woofer being used to fill in the sound be placed there? Or does the woofer require air flow or space between the cone(?) and the seat?
3) If I wanted to keep the factory 6.5's in their respective places, and bring in a subwoofer to fill in the lows with the intent to go for Sound Quality; what size of sub would you recommend (I was planning on two 10's or one if I couldn't find a spot that didn't hinder grocery shopping)? I listen primarily to house, hard trance, and rock/alternative. I like bass in my music but don't want to lose the mids and the highs in the process.
Thanks,
Madode
1) For the Sub in the rear, you used an 8" and said a person wouldn't need to use a Shallow sub. Would the same be true for a 10"? Or would I need to purchase the Shallow variant of the 10" sub I like?
2) For the Door Install, are you putting your 8" Woofer in factory 6.5 slot? If not, are you going to use the large plastic area of the door right next to the seat (for instance the driver side door, directly "behind - towards the back of the vehicle" the 1 Liter bottle holder? Could a woofer being used to fill in the sound be placed there? Or does the woofer require air flow or space between the cone(?) and the seat?
3) If I wanted to keep the factory 6.5's in their respective places, and bring in a subwoofer to fill in the lows with the intent to go for Sound Quality; what size of sub would you recommend (I was planning on two 10's or one if I couldn't find a spot that didn't hinder grocery shopping)? I listen primarily to house, hard trance, and rock/alternative. I like bass in my music but don't want to lose the mids and the highs in the process.
Thanks,
Madode
#26
1) An 8" was used because that is the limit of size to work with in this particular area and it is a tight fit (diameter wise) for most 8" speakers in the cubby where I placed mine. A 10" will not work in this particular spot based on real estate and air space volume needed for the sub to breathe.
2) The Factory 6.5" spots are actually larger than a normal 6.5" hole should be. The speaker is almost too small for the hole. This is with the plastic rings removed. The hole will be trimmed about 3/8" all the way around to to fit the 8" I want to get in there. I personally never recommend cutting holes in areas that are in highly visible areas. To me, cutting holes in the plastic panelling on the door is kind of white trashy. The 8" will fit behind the door panels and no one will be the wiser.
3)It has always been my personal opinion that 10"s are the perfect speaker for those with differing tastes in music. Rock music (again, my opinion) sounds best with 10"s. If you are only looking to augment your factory system, go with a single 10" and about 200W to it and you should be able to hear the bass at low volumes and it will still hit hard enough to overpower the factory system if you so desired.
If you have the upgraded head unit, you can connect an amp directly to it. It sounds decent enough and has the ability to adjust the subwoofer so if it is hitting too much, you can turn it down seperately of the rest of the stereo and vice versa. This will retain everything you hear in your stereo today but will add the low end for you at the same time.
2) The Factory 6.5" spots are actually larger than a normal 6.5" hole should be. The speaker is almost too small for the hole. This is with the plastic rings removed. The hole will be trimmed about 3/8" all the way around to to fit the 8" I want to get in there. I personally never recommend cutting holes in areas that are in highly visible areas. To me, cutting holes in the plastic panelling on the door is kind of white trashy. The 8" will fit behind the door panels and no one will be the wiser.
3)It has always been my personal opinion that 10"s are the perfect speaker for those with differing tastes in music. Rock music (again, my opinion) sounds best with 10"s. If you are only looking to augment your factory system, go with a single 10" and about 200W to it and you should be able to hear the bass at low volumes and it will still hit hard enough to overpower the factory system if you so desired.
If you have the upgraded head unit, you can connect an amp directly to it. It sounds decent enough and has the ability to adjust the subwoofer so if it is hitting too much, you can turn it down seperately of the rest of the stereo and vice versa. This will retain everything you hear in your stereo today but will add the low end for you at the same time.
#28
Originally Posted by Madode
Thanks for the information. I guess I'll need to purchase the upgraded HU, unless the base unit would still work for the time being?
Madode
Madode
#30
So I have been looking around a bit more and stumbled across a set of Clarion 7" Coaxial Marine Speakers. The dimensions are perfect but I have 2 problems...
They are Clarions
They are for marine (white)
Anyone have experience with Clarion speakers? I can deal with white rather than having to cut up my doors to fit the kicker mid bass speakers in.
They are Clarions
They are for marine (white)
Anyone have experience with Clarion speakers? I can deal with white rather than having to cut up my doors to fit the kicker mid bass speakers in.
#32
If you're going to run real subs (<80hz) in the back you can get some decent 6.5" woofers with good excursion and low-end roll-off from Parts Express, which'll add some nice punch and take some strain off the front speakers. Tough to make those doors tight enough and solid enough for 8's!
Just my $.02!
Great design , BTW! I'm going to need something that won't take up much space when I get my xB.
Just my $.02!
Great design , BTW! I'm going to need something that won't take up much space when I get my xB.
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