Regarding the center console USB, all I can suggest is looking up the wiring and having the installer make any necessary mods to support the new HU. Unless you're willing to take off on your own, only your installer can provide your answer. Whichever HU you decide to purchase, I suggest you compare two or three so you can decide which satisfies you best. IMO -- you don't need world beater door speakers, good quality co-axials will work fine.

One last input, I found that control of body panel resonances are important in achieving best quality sound. Just as home speakers need to control internal enclosure resonances as well as be positioned to limit room resonance, car speaker performance is at risk. I corrected my audible misbehavior by apply Edead to both interior outer-door skins and interior door panels (front and rear). Different folk will have different inputs on this subject, but unless you take steps to control resonances, the final sound quality will suffer. Once again, it's you that has to decide what pleases you.

 

You know what is so weird about the stock base unit and the speakers...nowhere in the manual is the make and model for the speakers and for the base head unit...the power is listed as 4X40 watts (160watts). No mention of RMS power at all.

If I knew this stuff..then I could determine a better course...anyone know?

 

The door speakers will be very basic new car Pioneer one-ways. The A-pillar tweeter will also be Pioneer, but as I said, it works well and there's no need to replace it. The 40W per channel is probably "music" power and dividing it by 1.414 should get you in the ballpark of the RMS capability.

 

So if you divide 40 by 1.414 equals 28.288...so is that RMS 28 watts per channel...wow. Or am I doing it wrong? (most likely) LOL

 

Division is division, there's nothing mysterious about power ratings if you understand the general desire of manufacturers to inflate it. Be happy they're not quoting "peak" power ! Just as in your home, it doesn't take piles of power to produce quality sound, it just takes quality power and respectable speakers. The obstacles in a car are resonances and road noise. I suggest the very reasonably priced Edead for the resonances. You don't need to spend lots of money for enjoyable car sound, just as in the home, you can settle for spending smartly .

 

The reason I always go with Alpine amps is that they are always pushing more than factory stats say.

Mine Alpine V60 stats:

75x 4 - Rms
300x1- RMS

You get a birth sheet with every Authorized Alpine Dealer...

MINE Birth Sheet:

108x 4 REAL RMS (5X THE AMOUNT OF STOCK)
381x 1 REAL RMS (RUNS MY SUB)

 

Trevor, i found a coupleof head units with rear USB. Would that let me keep my USB port in the center console. Saw a JVC and Sony model at Best Buy.

 

If power is your big thing, that's great. For me, sound quality is most important and so I compared comparibly priced Eclipse, Alpine, JVC, and Kenwood head units. The winner was easily the Kenwood (though I had to damp the door panel resonances before it was fully clear in the xB2). Alpine used to be a great quality unit, but not any more -- they seem to be resting on their old laurels (that happens a lot in industry, Sony for example). Kenwood is my preference, but that's me (it won in two cars) -- everyone needs to do their own comparisons.

My Kenwood has its USB mounted in back and I ran a USB 2.0 cable to the console. As long as the installer can work with the xB2 wiring, then it shouldn't be a problem. Like I said before, only the installer can say whether or not he/she can keep the center console hookup.

 

Trevor, do you recall which Kenwood model you have?

 

i have a sony double din unit witht he usb in the rear and just leave my ipod in my center console area

 

So Phatchef, what you are saying is that you plug your ipod to the front USB of the Sony unit, let the cord fall and use the center console cup holders to hold the ipod.

What I want is to use the Scion's USB port in the center console cabinet so that I can keep my ipod in the cabinet hidden away.

 

I did my install near four years ago and finally went with an Excelon KDC-X792, it was a modest but desirable sonic upgrade over the X692, which was otherwise basically the same thing. Models now have more features than mine did (I'm guessing the KDC-X796 would be roughly the same level). If you look on Crutchfield.com, I find the owner reviews pretty helpful, though you often have to sift a little due to overoptimistic "reviewer" expectations !

FWIW -- I've had good experience with 6-1/2"' Alpine coax speakers for the doors. Mine were SPS-17C2 and as with my head unit, time has passed.

 

Funny you should say that....got a quote today for installing four 6.5" Alpine coaxials aling with an Alpine amp for $445 includes labor. The amp ($149) would sit behind the hu. The coaxials ($59pr) would replace all the door speakers. Is it a good deal?

 

I would go with the type S components up front for 99.99 and get the coaxials for the rears only. Alpines $149.00 HU amp seems to get good reviews so go for it!!

 

IMO, The HU is more critical than the speakers, so rolling back expectations there is not necessarily a good idea. $100 for both a good tweeter and mid/woofer? Perhaps I'm wrong, but when a respectable tweeter is already provided, I prefer to go for a more capable full range door driver to fill out what the OE tweeter leaves out.

It depends on how well the individual components perform. Frankly, $59 per door speaker pair strikes me as light, mine cost me more and they were being discontinued at the time (I'm like that ). It's important to have good performing full range door speakers, but they don't have to be out-of-this-world. As I suggested earlier, I question the need for an outboard amplifier given a good quality HU, unless your looking for greater loudness -- still, nothing wrong with an outboard amp, just adds cost. How tight is the money? Don't get hung up on RMS/channel, that just translates into loudness and control of demanding speakers (I prefer to keep the demand reasonably easy). Remember the TV ads where the Rolls owner closes the window to block out the Rap "music"? (Something like that anyway !) Take your time and look into the individual components, it's not just the price, it's the sound. The price is paid once, the sound you have to live with.

PS. If an installation is suggested, make note of the specific product identifiers of the components to be installed. Without that, there's no way to evaluate what you can expect.

 

My birth sheet alpine V60

 

I did it...upgraded the speakers....all Alpine...coaxials in the rear doors and Alpine components in the front. With the Alpine amp. Install is later this week. I did ask the installer about swapping out the HU. Since I had Toyota install my Sirius tuner under the passenger seat, the installer was unsure if any of the aftermarket head units will work with it. He says Sirius XM has several models and each has different connectors.

Because I was thinking of upgrading the HU...yes yes, I know, I am going to have to do it sooner or later...just wondering if the Scion Sirius factory installed unit will work with the Kenwoods, Pioneers and Sonys of the world. Anyone know?

 

No idea on the Sirius, but here's hoping everything works out well !

 

Trevor, I did not get the original Alpine speakers. I went with upgraded Alpine coaxials speakers and components and my installer (a friend of the family) even agreed to do it for free to keep me within budget.

I really do like the base head unit. I like the functionality of it. The retro understated look with the matte finish. The touchscreen head units are nice and very appealing but they can be distracting. I should know, I got an iPAD... and I use it more than my iMac. Plus, I am fearful they are thief targets.

But who knows, maybe I will win the lottery...

 

In all honesty, I'm wishing you the best. Hopefully the preamp outputs will work well with the outboard amp and provide satisfactory sound, my base Pioneer HU didn't include preamp outs, and the base sound was not satisfactory . IMO -- audio setups are highly personal and what matters is what works for you (be it home or car). The sound you hear following your upcoming install will be your next data point.