LophatXB

I am due for an oil change now. I barely have 9800 mile on my XB. I was thinking I should just do the oil change myself. I was thinking about doing the Royal Purple swap in the engine and the transmission. Has anybody else done the synthetic swap in their ride. And if I do, how do I get the maintenance light turned off?

jnaval

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...qd+light+reset


I'm running Mobil 1 0W20.

TotalChaos

Just do it yourself...I have a tC and it is simple. I use 5W-20 Royal Purple w/Purolator PureOne filter. Never had a problem. Kind of pricey though. I would totally run synthetic but that's just me. Light reset is somewhere in manual too. Pain to find but its there.

lefty29er

set trip A to 000 and hold down **** , turn key off, still holding down **** turn key on and hold until , -----, ----, ---, --, -, ... done and reset for another 5000 easy

AnotherDude

iTrader: (1)

Synthetic is the way to go. I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic in my tC and the car runs sooooooooooooo smoothly. I did the Royal Purple swap too and it was just as smooth, but the engine was quieter. Only reason I'm on Mobil 1 synthetic right now is because Autozone gave me the 5th quart and oil filter free. Saved me $20. RP does seem to burn faster than Mobil 1 too.

Roller_Toaster

iTrader: (1)

Ditto, my xb LOVES 0w-20. It runs smoother than it has with any other type of oil. The PO ran dyno oil in it, and I tried a few different types before settling on it (the fact that wally world sells a 5qt jug for $25 helped my decision :D).

AAG

iTrader: (1)

Mobil 1 EP 5w-20 here, no oil consumption.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

One more vote for synthetic oil. If you get M1 or Pennzoil Ultra in the 5 qt jug from Wally World, it doesn't cost much more than dino oil. Personally I wouldn't trust dino oil as thin as 20 weight.

Despite the SAE numbers, syn oil flows better when cold, lubricates better hot or cold, handles higher temps and doesn't shear as quickly.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, synthetic works for me -- switched to it at 1K and changed at 5K. Also run it in my '90 Eclipse, the Mobil One "High Mileage" formulation.

Bobielon

x3 on Mobil 1, couple bucks cheaper than that purple stuff too

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Royal Purple is very good, and Red-Line better still, but it all costs money ! In my Eclipse, I settled for Mobile One in the crank case, Pennzoil Syncromesh in the transaxle and transfer case, and Royal Purple in the differential. Got no complaints !

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Royal Purple may be good oil but I won't use it because of their false advertising practices.

AAG

iTrader: (1)

LOL just like all the other oil companies that says their oil is "fully synthetic" when it's really a group III oil

If you are stock or slightly modded, any dino oil will get your xb2 to 200k miles easily. Even if you're boosted, Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, etc will be enough to protect your car (or using it to extend your oil change intervals).

AMSoil, Redline, and Royal Purple are "boutique" oils that 99% of xb2 owners will never "need".

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

No, I was referring to their bogus and unsubstantiated claims such as:

“Increases horsepower and torque by as much as 3 percent,” “Reduces Engine Wear by 80 percent,” “Superior Oxidation Stability” and “Provides Film Strength Up to 400 Percent.”

For which they were sued and lost because they couldn't prove any of those claims.


Agreed. Especially Mobil One since it is primarily group IV PAO based. Although group III "synthetic" oils are still superior to group II dino oils. IMO one big advantage to synthetic oil for turbocharging is the greatly reduced chance of oil coking inside the hot turbo on engine shut down.

I'm sure that the average XB engine would last 200,000 miles using Walmart brand dino oil changed every 5k miles but I still feel better running fully synthetic Mobil One instead. Needed or not. I agree that paying more than M1 costs would be a waste of money for most people.

Hyper_xB

I made that video when I had my first 08 xB, so I could easily go back and remember how to do it in case I forgot. Nice to see it in a forum to help everybody out.

As for oil, definitely synthetic is the way to go. I only have 50 miles so far on my '12, but when I hit 1000 it's going synthetic!!

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Cars have been running dino oil since gasoline engines were made.

Synthetic offers a slicker viscosity and runs significantly cooler than standard. The oil topic could go on to no end.

I think it all comes down to matter or self satisfaction, climate, driving conditions, and how often you keep up with you oil change intervals.

People have stated that synthetics have quieted down their engines, I find this to completely the opposite in my Evo motor on my harley. It ran quieter in the top end with Dino oil because it contains molecules of different sizes whereas the molecules in syn are all the same size. Therefore, dino actually takes up more "area" than the same weight syn.


look at it like this..if you filled a gym floor with all kinds of *****, volleyballs, basketballs, tennis *****, etc and tried to roll across them, you could do it, but if you filled the floor with all volleyballs, imagine how much better you could roll across the floor.

Therefore the syn (volleyballs) molecules are all the same size and give a "slicker" surface, but the dino (the odd sized *****) actually give more of a "thickness" for filling gaps, thus, quieter valve train.

You can run whatever you want in the car, just make sure you stay up on your OCI's and check you oil often. I may sludge or dirty up quick before the maintenance interval and I would suggest changing it to keep your engines internals clean. A lot of the extened mile oils have more detergents inside of there to help just that..

Also I would recommend running higher viscosity in hotter climates.. the thinner oils break down easier, regardless of the tighter tolerances on today's motors.. Also fully synthetic oil filters give you the least flow restriction as well..

A-snell

iTrader: (4)

GO here: http://www.scionxbforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229

READ IT!!! it should explain it all !!

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry but I checked out your link and that guy is clueless about oil viscosity, filters, oil brands and change intervals. He's the reason I change my own oil rather than taking my car to the Jiffy Lube he works at.

If you really want to learn about oil and filters go to BITOG and read. There are very marked differences between different oil filters, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra are widely considered to be among the best synthetic oils available, Castrol is not. Changing oil every 3-3.5K is a waste of time, money and a non-renewable resource. 3K oil changes have not been necessary since the 1950's and the introduction of multi-viscosity detergent motor oils.

A-snell

iTrader: (4)

ScionFRED-

Just so you know, I'm all about the D.I.Y. That is the greatest feeling in the world when you DO IT YOUR DAMN SELF. I've just changed enough oil in my life to not want to do it anymore. I ONLY take my vehicles to shops I know and trust.

With that said: Let me break down your reply (insult) in parts and address each issue separately.


really?? CLUELESS?? I think NOT. I have been in the automotive world for over 15 years, and was a certified lube tech for 5 of those years. So stuff it. What's your experience?

Reminds me of the movie "Tommy Boy":
"you can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a bull's ___, but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word on it?"

How about saying something like, I read that and didn't agree.
not sitting there behind your computer and "bashing" someone else.

So, you are saying that I'm the reason you don't take your car to JIFFY LUBE? ME personally... cause that's what you said.. LOL... riiiiiiiight... I never ONCE said I worked for Jiffy Lube.... DID I. So stop trying to put words into my mouth. Plus Jiffy Lube is the worst.. They don't train their employees properly.

[quote=ScionFred;3899037]If you really want to learn about oil and filters go to BITOG and read. [quote]

not a bad site. I read a little bit of it. I'll read more later..
(That's how you do it.. NOT, Go on the attack on someones experience that is trying to help others.) But. remember this.. Anyone can start a website and say they are #1.. ANYONE.... I'd rather go to an OIL COMPANY or QUALIFIED TECH to read about the benefits and drawbacks of OIL.. not a 3rd party claiming to be "#1".

[QUOTE=ScionFred;3899037]
There are very marked differences between different oil filters, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra are widely considered to be among the best synthetic oils available, Castrol is not. [quote]


Penzoil? the best?? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA.. I doubt that... Penzoil USED to be the worst. Their oil was the largest producer of sludge build up. That MAY not be the case anymore, but I'm never putting that stuff in my engines. However they do have a very loyal following..

I did say that filters are different... in GRADES. there are economy, mid and premium lines. The difference is the amount, and sometimes type of, filter paper (filament) inside. I chose Casrtol cause that is my PERSONAL preference, if you want to put crap (Penziol) into your ride then that is yours. I have been using all types of Castrol oils in all my vehicles my whole "Driving" life. All but one engine lived to see over 200,000 miles. What ONE has not?? my current ride. it only has 36,000. it still has a few more miles to go.

Even with synthetic oils your engine still builds up metal shavings and deposits from normal wear and tear. Changing oil at these regular intervals prolongs engine life. It might not be "necessary" but good practice and a good idea.

resources?? you really said that??? WOW....

SYNTHETIC OIL IS MADE IN A LAB!!! not drilled up from the ground.

Watch this.... http://youtu.be/Y0tVQBB_MSg YES.. it is from an OIL company, AMSOIL (HAD THE FIRST SYNTHETIC OIL to pass the service requirements of the API) so don't go saying that they DON'T know what they are talking about.... geez... I chose this video cause of how they explain synthetic oils. I bet if it was a video from Penzoil you would LOVE IT and sing it's praises...

OR read this:
(yes, I copied/pasted. I didn't feel like typing that out or summarizing it.)

What is synthetic oil?
The easiest way to define what synthetic oil is, is to define what it is NOT. Conventional motor oil as we have known it for the last 100 years or so is derived from crude oil that is taken from the earth with oil wells. Through a complex distillation process the crude oil is refined into many different liquids, or fractions, each having distinct characteristics. Some are very light and are used as fuel (gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel), and some are heavier and are used as lubricants (motor oil, gear lube, grease). There are many molecular compounds present in crude oil and many of those compounds are still present in the refined product, detracting from the physical properties of that product. For instance, paraffinnic waxes are present in crude-based oil, but contribute nothing to the lubricative properties of the oil. Also, the size of the hydrocarbon molecules themselves are non-uniform in crude-based oils. Synthetic oil contains none of these contaminants and the hydrocarbon molecules are very uniform, giving the synthetic oil base better mechanical properties at extreme high and low temperature (see the sections below on physical properties). By contrast, synthetic oil is not distilled from crude oil. It is made through a chemical process known as the Fischer-Tropsch process, starting with raw materials like methane, carbon monoxide, and carbon dioxide. This process was developed by Germany in WWII, when that country's access to crude oil was very limited.



SO..... DO NOT get diarrhea of the mouth and hands saying I DON'T KNOW MY STUFF... maybe YOU should try reading that site of yours.. OR, any automotive literature for that matter. I really hate when someone that obviously doesn't know a lot about a subject goes spatting off against someone with experience.


THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME. and have a nice day.

r2d2michael

^^^^dont get all butt hurt jezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!


and this should ____ you off:

i ran moble 1 full syn for 10,000 miles. came out looking like it was in there for 3,000 and i found no "metal shavings" and the car ran the same way from 1 mile to 10,000. just sayn..

fyi the normal change is 5,000 for me but i wanted to know what would really happen. ill post a pic of 0 mi and 10,000 if you want. and next time i change it at 5,000 i save some to show it looks the same.( cant really show it feels the same but what ever)

if i change it every 3k like the oil companys want you too i would spend about 120 in just oil. i drive about 15k a year and thats at 4qts a change at $6 a qt

if i change it at 5,000 like toyota says to i would spend 72$ in just oil

if i change it every 7,500 like some full syn say you can do i would spend 48$ in just oil

so over 200,000 miles 3k oils changes would cost 1,600 in just oil. double that in getting a shop to do it

and at 5000mi i would spent 960$ in just oil. thats if it the price never goes up.

not to bash you but i think ill stay at 5000

and i understand all oil breaks down over time and blah blah i just think the 3k has been brianwashed into our minds and some pepole just cant see anyother way than that. IMO