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To synthetic or not to synthetic.

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Old 09-08-2011, 07:31 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by lefty29er
set trip A to 000 and hold down **** , turn key off, still holding down **** turn key on and hold until , -----, ----, ---, --, -, ... done and reset for another 5000 easy
The book says each dash is 1000 miles so, if you want to change it every 3000 stop when you get to 2 dashes left and it will remind you then.

On another note...

I know oil technology and they all have nearly the same stuff.
here's a short story

I worked with a guy for like 12 years, he was an older German class A Mold Maker.
This guy was meticulous in his entire life, not just his work.
He had a turbo Carrera as his daily driver but, on the weekends he would drive to the track, race it, then drive home.
He used Royal Purple but, being as **** as he was, he changed his oil filter every 1000 miles and replaced lost oil. He would then pour the oil out of the filter into a sample cup and send off for testing.
After 100,000 miles the oil still tested within spec. At that point he changed his oil.
That right there sold me, I don't care what I hear unless they change formulation, I'm staying. A turbo boxter engine is way harder on oil than Toyota engines.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TheotherBMan
The book says each dash is 1000 miles so, if you want to change it every 3000 stop when you get to 2 dashes left and it will remind you then.

On another note...

I know oil technology and they all have nearly the same stuff.
here's a short story

I worked with a guy for like 12 years, he was an older German class A Mold Maker.
This guy was meticulous in his entire life, not just his work.
He had a turbo Carrera as his daily driver but, on the weekends he would drive to the track, race it, then drive home.
He used Royal Purple but, being as **** as he was, he changed his oil filter every 1000 miles and replaced lost oil. He would then pour the oil out of the filter into a sample cup and send off for testing.
After 100,000 miles the oil still tested within spec. At that point he changed his oil.
That right there sold me, I don't care what I hear unless they change formulation, I'm staying. A turbo boxter engine is way harder on oil than Toyota engines.
Yes but you need to understand that OIL hasnt changed or morphed into some super formula, however the additives and detergents have, which changes the game entirely. I run 10w40 extended life in a 92 ford ranger with 132k on it. After 3,000 miles that oil is a slight more dark golden than the day it poured. Would I change it based off color? Maybe not but it sure as hell didn't burn as quick as standard oil. Why? the detergents.. simple enough, and I dont care what ANYONE says, but changing your oil with RP or any high end oil every 1,000 miles is a HUGE waste of money IMO
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:25 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by kingofthecrate
Yes but you need to understand that OIL hasnt changed or morphed into some super formula, however the additives and detergents have, which changes the game entirely. I run 10w40 extended life in a 92 ford ranger with 132k on it. After 3,000 miles that oil is a slight more dark golden than the day it poured. Would I change it based off color? Maybe not but it sure as hell didn't burn as quick as standard oil. Why? the detergents.. simple enough, and I dont care what ANYONE says, but changing your oil with RP or any high end oil every 1,000 miles is a HUGE waste of money IMO
But he changed it after 100,000 miles even though it was still within spec.

He was changing his FILTER after 1,000. What he told me was after his inital test he would change his filter after 3,000 and do full change after 50,000.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:41 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TheotherBMan
But he changed it after 100,000 miles even though it was still within spec.

He was changing his FILTER after 1,000. What he told me was after his inital test he would change his filter after 3,000 and do full change after 50,000.
Ahhh I see, well your story didn't make out to that so I assumed that he was performing OIC's every 1,000 miles.. My bad player ;)

There is a good thread about Amsoil Here that will give the same sort of results. However running that oil and changing the filters is the right idea, I just wouldn't be go that long without changing my oil because I just feel better knowing she is getting fresh fluids.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:09 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by kingofthecrate
Ahhh I see, well your story didn't make out to that so I assumed that he was performing OIC's every 1,000 miles.. My bad player ;)

There is a good thread about Amsoil Here that will give the same sort of results. However running that oil and changing the filters is the right idea, I just wouldn't be go that long without changing my oil because I just feel better knowing she is getting fresh fluids.
I used Amsoil in my EVO transmission and transfer case.

I knew that was a long story and could be misunderstood, my bad. But knowing someone that actually did the testing in normal extreme conditions makes me feel better than a company having "independent laboratory tests".
I personally change the filter after 5,000 and oil at 10,000 non-boosted and 3,500 and 7,500 boosted but, check level every week.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:36 AM
  #46  
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This is interesting. For many years most oem's recommended changing oil every 7500 miles and changing the filter every 15,000 miles (*under "normal" driving conditions). I've never heard of an oil filter needing replacement prior to the motor oil. Of course oil filters come in many sizes and ours are admittedly quite small. I'd be very interested to know if anyone knows of any credible testing that indicates any advantage to changing oil filters more often than motor oil. I don't mean to discredit the 100k oil/1k filter experiment but testing like that is really no different than the guy who changes oil and filter every 3k for 300k and then credits 3k OCIs with his engine's longevity. No proven cause and effect.

AFAIK there are enough fine particulates to darken the color of motor oil that are small enough to pass through the filter media anyway so the only scenerio I can see calling for more frequent filter changes would be the filter media becoming clogged to the point where the oil has to bypass the filtering media through the filter's bypass valve. There's also the potential problem of over-filtering the oil. There is some speculation that the finest filter media currently in use (Purolater Pure One) may actually be too fine to permit adequate oil flow. The only things I'm really sure of is that changing motor oil or filter more often than every 5k is a waste. JMO.

Last edited by ScionFred; 09-13-2011 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:05 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ScionFred
Of course oil filters come in many sizes and ours are admittedly quite small.
So what you are suggesting is that size matters?





I know that was really bad, but you set me up, so I had to.


BTW, the Toyota YZZF1 filter is quite a bit taller than the OEM YZZF2 filter. They're the same price and fit perfectly. I don't know if it really helps at all, but I feel better knowing that it has significantly more filter area.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:27 AM
  #48  
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No, you didn't...

I trust Smiling Bob on this one. That's why I'm running YZZF1 filters and smiling between 5k oil and filter changes.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:02 AM
  #49  
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Yes, I did have to...

Yup, my own YZZF1 filter & Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5k miles. My local Toyota dealership only charges $15.10 labor for the oil & filter change, including disposal. My time is worth more than doing it myself.
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CIONIDE
Yes, I did have to...

Yup, my own YZZF1 filter & Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5k miles. My local Toyota dealership only charges $15.10 labor for the oil & filter change, including disposal. My time is worth more than doing it myself.
F1 + Toyota 0w-20 changed out for $20.00 for me
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