I'm in the process of replacing my rear brake pads. Trying to push in the rear brake piston but, won't budge. Any tips?

 

Use a C-Clamp to squeeze it back in. Or use a pry bar and wedge it to push the pistons back in.

 

I am using a c-clamp but wont budge. From what i heard is there a special tool for this.

 

open the bleeder valve make it easy on yourself.

 

Use a larger c-clamp and put some muscle into it.

 

usually with rear brakes. the psiton has a lock mechanism because of the ebtake. i havent looked at mine but usually the way to push the piston back inn is witha speacial tool that u need to push the psiton inn and at the same time. turn it, but u could also do it with help if u have any with someone turning and the other pushing or just oepn the bleed valve but in doing that u could get air in ur brake line and thats not good

 

You don't happen to know the name of this Tool do you? I've called Autozone, Kragen, and Pep Boys. Nada.

 

I usually put something oblong between the pads and slowly twist to move the pads apart.

Like the handle of a rubber mallet, handle of a hammer, whatever is skinny one way and thicker as you twist.

 

It's not to remove the pads. It's to push the brake PISTON BACK INTO TO PLACE. Thanks for your thought dou'

 

I know. That exactly what I was describing. How to wedge the pads APART so the assembled caliper will fit over the rotor.

 

Heres what you need.

http://www.bizrate.com/automotiverep...ston+tool.html

 

After a whole day of researching. Most Rear brake calipers need a special tool. "A C-clamp won't do" Here it is: Brake Caliper Compression Kit. A tool utilize to push the caliper piston back in while rotating in motion. FINALLY..I could continue my project.

 

Thank You All For you Input!!

 

all you need is a needle nose or like a 17 mm wrench and twist it in dont push make sure the boot dont stick or it will rip.

 

I found that a 19mm wrench with a screwdriver for more torque worked great. Put the open end of the wrench between the pressure pads and use the a screwdriver in the closed end of the wrench to give you more torque. Turn clockwise andit's easy. Spray or wipe the rubber seal with some armorall or lubricant and that will keep it from cracking and give it a little more life.

 

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but this was EXTREMELY helpful. I just wanted to express my gratitude for all your replies and hints. Unfortunately, one of my calipers extended so far that the pad was gone and was actually hitting the rotor, so it was non-salvageable ... I was about to buy a second one, until I came upon this thread, so I got the cube tool from autozone for $12 and it rotated right in. However ... anyone does anyone ever have any issues with that stupid caliper pin seizing? I typically try to remove them, clean them up and re-lube them, but by the time I need to change the pads again, they've completely locked up. Is there a special lube to use on it?

 

You probably just need to add some permatex green silicone brake lubricant to the pins. Tried the permatex orange synthetic , didn't like it( too thin).

 

I hope the poster from 6 years ago sees this and it fixes him.

In summary, when doing rear brakes on these (and most other cars with disk rears), you need to press in while turning the cylinder. I just use needle nose pliers but there are special tools if you want to get fancy.

Always clean and lube your slide pins. CRC brake caliper synthetic grease is awesome for this.

 

Yeah, needle-nose pliers to spin piston and push.