I'm located in Las Vegas, I may just try and sell them locally. I never mentioned what I payed for the wheels.

 

I got the wheels and tires on and they look great IMO and ride better. I will get pics up this afternoon. Should I just run the 35/32 "stock" psi in the new wheels and tires?

 

That'll work fine. Personally, I'm running 39F/35R, for just a tad more mpg, and sidewall stiffness.

 

Any issue with uneven wear? I might try running 37/34.

 

None what-so-ever. I ran 40F/36R on my OEM tires for 42k miles, before I switched to the new tires & wheels, and had no uneven wear on them either. I do rotate every 5k miles, so I'm sure that helps.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

Anyone know the torque spec for the lug nuts?

 

IIRC, America's Tire Co. torqued mine to 80 ft. lbs., then had me come back after 100 miles of driving to re-torque them to 80. They said this was necessary because my wheels are painted, which includes the area where the lug nuts are seated.

 

Discount Tire told me to come back after 100 miles to have to wheels retorqued as well. I asked them what the torque spec was so that I could just do it myself and the guy said "Uh....I dont know, 90 or something." I found somewhere that said the lug nuts should be torqued to 76 ft lbs, so thats what I retorqued them at. I cant remember where I found that though.

 

Thats what Ive been running too I like the ride better and wear is normal. I was thinking about running the same on my new set but Im sure I'll find a new comfort level. For auto X I run 50 up front and 38 in the rear.

 

I finally decided to quit being lazy and get a picture, but it just so happens that I decided to do so on one of the fews days a year that it actually rains here in Las Vegas lol.

I will be adding Tanabe NF210 springs with TRD shocks/struts soon.

 

not bad..

 

Thanks. Springs, shocks, and struts are going on next wheel, so it should look better with less wheel gap.

 

There, fixed it for you.