Scored some new-to-me wheels!
Scored some new-to-me wheels!
Probably won't be going on the xB until I can get bags, but I just picked up a set of 20x8.5 3-piece Enkei Zeus wheels. Currently ET 44, but since they need new lips, might try to make them 9s or maybe do an 8.5/9.5 staggered setup. Still not sure what color the centers will be either...maybe white?
Anyway, a couple of quick pics before I head off to bed!
Anyway, a couple of quick pics before I head off to bed!
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 214
From: 35N90W
Scream,
Nice wheels. Very detailed retro contouring and bold spokes which I believe behooves xBs. What about a darker metallic silver (+ clear coat) on the discs, that'd make the assembly bolts and the polished lips pop? White on white alone instills the Stormtrooper image which, while notable, isn't exactly distinctive...
Curious, because I just went through the multi-piece wheel learning curve, what are the Enkei specs of the assembly bolts?
Nice wheels. Very detailed retro contouring and bold spokes which I believe behooves xBs. What about a darker metallic silver (+ clear coat) on the discs, that'd make the assembly bolts and the polished lips pop? White on white alone instills the Stormtrooper image which, while notable, isn't exactly distinctive...
Curious, because I just went through the multi-piece wheel learning curve, what are the Enkei specs of the assembly bolts?
Scream,
Nice wheels. Very detailed retro contouring and bold spokes which I believe behooves xBs. What about a darker metallic silver (+ clear coat) on the discs, that'd make the assembly bolts and the polished lips pop? White on white alone instills the Stormtrooper image which, while notable, isn't exactly distinctive...
Curious, because I just went through the multi-piece wheel learning curve, what are the Enkei specs of the assembly bolts?
Nice wheels. Very detailed retro contouring and bold spokes which I believe behooves xBs. What about a darker metallic silver (+ clear coat) on the discs, that'd make the assembly bolts and the polished lips pop? White on white alone instills the Stormtrooper image which, while notable, isn't exactly distinctive...
Curious, because I just went through the multi-piece wheel learning curve, what are the Enkei specs of the assembly bolts?
I'm having a friend help w/ my rebuild...he's rebuilt several sets of wheels. I did find this post while looking around the other day, hope this helps.
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26614
from the www.stanceworks.com thread above, not my original thought 
Step 1: Make sure all surfaces are clean and free of any old silicone before mating them together. To strip silicone, you first use a razor blade, then a wire brush attachment on a cordless drill or drill press. There are other methods of stripping old silicone, feel free to get creative.
Step 2: Assemble the wheel. With most three piece wheels, you mate the outer lip and inner barrel together first, then drop the center in from the backside or front side, line up the hardware holes, and put in the hardware by hand.
Step 3: Torque down the hardware (you may also choose to torque down the hardware at the very end, this helps with not having a bubble form in the silicone). With Fikse and Kinesis wheels, which use relatively small, M6 hardware, torque spec is 15 ft lbs. Fikse should be torqued to 14 ft lbs. Do not over-torque. With wheels that use larger M8 hardware, torque spec is usually around 18 ft lbs. Torque in a star pattern, rather than just one after another in a row. Do not use a cheap, autozone style torque wrench. Borrow a good torque wrench from a friend if you have to.
Step 1: Make sure all surfaces are clean and free of any old silicone before mating them together. To strip silicone, you first use a razor blade, then a wire brush attachment on a cordless drill or drill press. There are other methods of stripping old silicone, feel free to get creative.
Step 2: Assemble the wheel. With most three piece wheels, you mate the outer lip and inner barrel together first, then drop the center in from the backside or front side, line up the hardware holes, and put in the hardware by hand.
Step 3: Torque down the hardware (you may also choose to torque down the hardware at the very end, this helps with not having a bubble form in the silicone). With Fikse and Kinesis wheels, which use relatively small, M6 hardware, torque spec is 15 ft lbs. Fikse should be torqued to 14 ft lbs. Do not over-torque. With wheels that use larger M8 hardware, torque spec is usually around 18 ft lbs. Torque in a star pattern, rather than just one after another in a row. Do not use a cheap, autozone style torque wrench. Borrow a good torque wrench from a friend if you have to.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 59
^^ I agree... if you have the funds. Although it's hard to see exactly what tone of silver they are as it looks like you have yellowish fluorescent bulbs in your garage or wherever you took the photos.
But a "bright silver'' would look cool. I kind of like them without the center caps. Can't wait to see the final product! Oh yeah, I hope you have plans to lower because those are some big ___ wheels that would look weird with wheel gap!
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Utah Scions
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,139
From: City of Salt, Utah
Gold bolts look so sick with white faces, though!
If you do decide to color match the wheels, i'd go with paint because it may be difficult to match the center caps to the faces.
If you do decide to color match the wheels, i'd go with paint because it may be difficult to match the center caps to the faces.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 14
+1 to this comment. especially since ur car is white, the gold would be a good accent to the white faces...dont want toooo much of one color. i think itd be a classy look too IMO...
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