dunno, but I think it is pretty much the same way.

 

great walk through definitly helps on my in dash install

 

Here's a quick question for anyone that has deadened their tC.

Approximately how many sq. ft. would you guys recommend to cover the doors, mid panels, and the entire hatch?

I was thinking maybe 75 to 100 sq. ft.?... what do you guys think?

 

I used raammat which is 62.5 Square Feet per Roll and 2 rolls. Plus some other type of raamat foam for the trunk and rear sides. So t answer your question I used about 140 sq ft but that was because I wanted it all done w/ a few layers. I know if you PM rick he will give u a few bucks off his webpage price ...plus he answered any qustion I had.
https://www.scionlife.com/profile/raamaudio

 

We used these tC instructions today. Thank you for posting this up, what a great service!

Frank and James

 

For the door panels, when deadining the inside of the plastic piece, did you guys remove the yellowish plastic pieces?


Or did you just deaden over them? Or is it even necessary to deaden them?

 

The styrofoam?

Mine is still in there...only the plastic got painted.

Those are eventually being cut off when I seal the door up

 

Sorry, I messed my wording up. Yea I meant yellowish styrofoam pieces rather than plastic pieces. I need to get in the habit of proof reading.

Thanks.

Oh and I have a PM coming your way.

 

i didnt because keeping the stock rain guard there was a better idea (for me) then to deaden the car. If you keep the stock quard on there dont even bother putting deadening material over the top. if someone told me that I deff wouldnt have bothered. The rear of the car puts out LOTS of noise so i would say ...look into that more. bang on the car and listen for where it makes the most noise.

 

Blocking road noise and such is a bonus for me. More importantly, I am deadening to improve the midbass and decrease vibrations.

 

take out one back seat panel and you will see that ya need to fix that more importantly.

 

They will be done in time. These two doors are high on the priority list right now. Can't put in the components until I finish deadening these damn doors.

 

Deadening to improve midbass = seal the holes.

 

These instructions RAWK!! I used them to put in my 2 12" RockFords (in sealed box). I kept the stock HU and used a Skosche (sp) Line-out convertor with my Rockford Amp (can't remember the model). Right now, the Amp isn't mounted and the wires aren't cut to length because this is a temp install until I get new components for the front. I also still need to deaden the trunk, but it sounds good inside, although I still need to do some tweaking.


Thanks for the instructions...this should be a STICKY!!

 

Not a sticky because it's already a tech article

Well, the V1 is...I like this one better.

 

Happy Birthday, Chris! hehe

Depending on how my back is this weekend, I'm totally gonna install my 6500s. Can't wait. Hope I'm not dead.

 

How long does it take for the v3 to dry in the hatch area? Also, when you do the hatch area, did you take the hatch lid (the actual hatch apart to deaden?

 

I let it dry overnight.

Oh, and yes, I removed the hatch panels and used v2se and the v3 on it.

 

Dry, about 2 hours or so...fully cured, 24.

If you put your car back together right away, it'll smell like mangoes for a while.

 

not mandos?