SCIONOSIS

Great DIY but it's not worth it for just the window and lock switch

SquallLHeart

not worth what?

it takes me like 10 minutes to take them out of the car.. swap the leds and put them back in.
(granted yes... i've done so many and it's like seriously routine...)
(and btw, i don't remove the door panel... i just use a small flathead to gently pry up the back edge.. which then i use my fingers to yank the rest of it out)

but there's nothing really difficult about it (but then again that's relative too... :?)

so perhaps.. yes.. not worth it for just the lock and window switches... you gotta do the whole car!

SCIONOSIS

^^^ Not only that, but I always thought the window and lock switches should illuminate as they are labeled. They outta illuminate big as well. Kinda like this.......WINDOW or LOCK rather than small illumination dots on the switches like this....... : :

If the DIY was done like how I prefer them to be, then it would be worth it.
Get my point. :D

Props for the work and for sharing the idea.

kiss_tc

are the guage and hvac LEDs the same as the steering wheel controls and door panels LEDs? I have leftovers from the guage and hvac... wondering if i can finsih the interior lighting...

SquallLHeart

gauges, hvac, and steering wheel use plccs

the door switches use 1206... (but you can squeeze a plcc on there)

kiss_tc

OK... I have recently been having some issues with my driver side switch to my pass side window shortly after i had my door panel led's changed... It rolls up and down just fine, just not automatically... i have to hold it. the auto function works on my driver side, and on the passenger side using its own switch... Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know how to fix it? I have tried resetting the windows already like you have to do when the battery is out... and no luck, it works like 1/100 times correctly. ANNOYING>>> Please help! And im not even positive it is related to the led swap, but i figure its worth a shot to see if anyone else came across this issue...

kiss_tc

OK, toyota has fixed my window issue. It works as it shoudl now. BUT the question is... could my LEDs that I put in have affected the functionality of the master switch? They said it could have been the reason, but they also said it could have been my alarm... But i think the master switch just went out at an inconvenient time... What do you guys think... do the LEDs again, or avoid changing them bc they could mess up my switch?

kiss_tc

anything? is this possible? im just nervous to re do my door panels if its going to break again...

ScionJim23

iTrader: (1)

This is so Easy. It took me less then 10 minutes a door including taking it all apart and puting it back together. Fast install and looks way better. I used some extra blue PLCC2 LEDs I had left over from Gauge/HVAC/Radio swaps I've done for me and local people and It looks great. The PLCC2 fit perfect and are nice and bright. And the only way it it would affect you master window switch is if you are a bad soldering person. And anyways, it sounds like you just FORGOT TO RESET YOU WINDOWS after you did your original swap. Thats why the auto function did not work!!! You need to reset the windows. easy fix.

kiss_tc

i reset the windows several times. didnt fix it. dealer tested the switch and it was bad. got it replaced.. just worried to redo my leds again if itll happen again. but im glad u used the same leds as the guages cuz thats what i did... im redoing it... and hope my soldering work is done right this time...

SquallLHeart

always clean the board and area after you're done soldering.

zooduster

Good write up....ALWAYS have to reset the windows when done

ScionJim23

iTrader: (1)

agreed with squall. make sure everything is clean off when your done so their are no extra small solder beeds that go stuck to something else on the board. This happens sometimes and can mae electronics go wacky.

tekstyle

how do you reset the window switch? my driver's rolled down but not up. i tried holding it up and down... it didnt budge.

updated: nevermind. took it apart again and realized that one of the lil white rods fell off. works now.

tC-N-TC

I just did this earlier today and I have to say that it was quite easy to do. The only thing to note is that the drivers side board with the 3 led's go with the beveled corner of the led upside down. On the other 2 boards the led's went in with the beveled corner of the led facing the bottom right corner of the led itself. The words LED 1 or LED 2 are right side up and run parallel to the beveled corner of the led on the lower right on the passenger boards. The words LED 1,2 & 3 are upside down on the drivers side board in relation to the lower right beveled edge of the led. I thought this odd that 2 of the 3 boards were the same while 1 was the opposite. Hence, I had to flip the led's on the drivers side door after putting them on the board in the same orientation as the passenger side boards as they didn't light up. Hope I didn't just confuse the crap out of anyone with this post.

SquallLHeart

uhhh

1206's have small dots to tell you what side the cathode is on the led.. and there's letter 'K' on the circuit board denoting that..

it's a bit easier than trying to remember up, down.. left.. right..

tC-N-TC

Cool beans...thanks for the info and yes, that is much easier!

b52hDUNN

iTrader: (1)

Just finished this mod. I used the blue plcc-2 from my hvac/ gauge mod. The blue is bright enough without any resistor changes.

alopez426

I am thinking of doing a swap to red led's all around, but the led's are small enough and would not want to screw it up with smaller things like the resistors, do you guys think would be bright enough? I would like it to be as bright as the stock color.

b52hDUNN

iTrader: (1)

The red should will be bright!